| Author | Message | ||
     Desertfox |
Lets see, I need to be specific here... Firstly, the little v-twin light comes on after idling for a few moments. Things I've done recently: Adjusted the primary chain, changed oil, had a look in the air box, fiddled with the tie bars(ugh), changed out the rear isolators, and most recently went for a ride with a friend through lots of stop and go traffic. Occasionally, it needs a little gas to hold a steady idle right after starting it, even though it'd warm outside. In fact, it sounded really rough at first, but I'm attributing that to the fact that the engine wasn't at operating temp yet. The first time the light came on, it went away as soon as I was in motion. I haven't ridden it again since then so I don't know if it will still go away. After work today I'm going to check the spark plugs for any fouling. Any other ideas? | ||
| Jramsey |
Check for a code, it should be stored in the ecm,a bad IAT,O2 or engine temp sender will cause it to run like crap. | ||
| Yo_barry |
Sounds like an IAT (Intake Air Temp) code if you messed with the airbox. Make sure that the IAT sensor is plugged in and that the cable going to it is not broken. Don't ask why I know this. Barry | ||
| Desertfox |
Will do barry. I don't know how to get to the codes, I'm not tech savvy. I'll go buy a new O2 sensor when I get the chance. they're cheap enough. | ||
| Desertfox |
I looked it up in the X1 files and it looks like the O2 sensor is definitely the issue. I never expected the Buell community to be as helpful as the VW community. Someone needs to write a "How to keep your Air Cooled V-Twin monster alive". | ||
| Kalali |
If you're planning to keep the bike you should invest in getting the ECMSPY set up; software and cable. So what makes you so certain that the O2 sensor is faulty? | ||
| Desertfox |
It showed the exact same symptoms as what was on the X1 files. I was wrong though  Replaced it to no avail. I'm looking at the IAT sensor as I type this. It looks clean. The two cables that go to it looked perfectly fine. The cover for the two wires looked worn out, but not all the way through. I ran the bike without the sensor and it did not change anything. This makes me assume the IAT signal is not being received. Gotta look into this a bit further... | ||
| Desertfox |
Jumpered it and found error code 15. Where do I need to look for shorts? Do I need to remove the gas tank? | ||
| Desertfox |
Apparently also getting code 32. I didn't let it cycle all the codes before. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Check your grounds and check the battery voltage when it's running. Lots of times, these odd multiple error things turn out to be crappy ground connections or a flakey battery/charging system. | ||
| Desertfox |
I keep going over everything as best I can and it all looks fine. I haven't cut into any of the bundles that hold things together, but I can't imagine that a wire would randomly cut itself in half inside a bundle... I'm going to guess that the code 15 is correct and my temp sensor died. The code 32 says the rear fuel injector is having problems and I'd believe it because that cylinder is not running. Also, battery reads 12.3 volts before and during running. I might try pulling out the rear injector to have a closer look in a minute or so. I may just pour in an injector cleaner of some kind. any other thoughts would be great. Heck, if anyone knows a nice shop near me (albuquerque) then I might give that route a try. | ||
| Akbuell |
First, a bad ETS can throw multiple codes, including injector codes. Been there, done that..... Second, the battery voltage should be in the 13.5-14V range above 2kish RPM. Nate has it right- Check your charging system, battery health, and grounds before going any further. These bikes can be very sensitive to low voltage. Hope this helps. Please let us know what you find. Dave | ||
| Desertfox |
Getting 14.2 volts at 2K rpm. The rear cylinder -is not firing- not just throwing a code. I felt the exhaust from the rear cylinder, it's cold while running. I burned myself on the other *stupid* can a bad intake air temp sensor cause a cylinder to stop firing? I'm gonna call harley today and see about getting the sensor and maybe some tips. | ||
| Desertfox |
Another update: I switched the positioning of the injectors and the rear is still not firing. So now I know it's not due to the injector itself. This is very likely the rear injector wire then, right? | ||
| Desertfox |
Final Update: All I can say is get the manual and learn to use diagnostic equipment. I finally found out that the Gr/Gy wire had split inside the casing creating an intermittent connection. I had to cut wires and re-assemble the clip, but it was fixed! The IAT code went away too, strangely enough. Booyeah. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Make sure you put your injectors back where they came from. At least on XB's, they're different - its a way to compensate for different cylinder temps and different mix conditions because of the temp offset. | ||
| Desertfox |
ugh x.x new problems. I'll start a new thread for it later. It's just ridiculous. (bank angle sensor and TPS issues) | ||
| Desertfox |
After getting the ECMspy on there and checking things out, clearing codes, and re-setting the TPS... I now have no error codes. My battery is ancient and dead though, so I'm replacing it. I don't know if it will start with a new battery, but we'll see. Only other thing I noticed is that it wants to set the cold start enrichment to around 170% at 20C. I checked the map, and the map says it should be at 135, but it still sets itself at 170. definitely weird. | ||
| Oldog |
I checked the map, and the map says it should be at 135, but it still sets itself at 170. definitely weird. fox compare the outside air temp to the cold engine temp and the intake air temp all should be close} | ||
| Desertfox |
They were. All temp readings were within 1 or 2 degrees of each other. Engine temp was 2 degrees lower, but that was after cranking it. The gas inside the cylinder would make it slightly colder. | ||
| Desertfox |
Old, bad battery. Put in the new one and all is, finally, well. The battery was definitely not the only issue though. I DID have to clean the plugs and check wires. Lesson of the week: Bad batteries can cause weird problems. | ||
| Kalali |
"Bad batteries can cause weird problems" Actually a better way of saying it that weird problems are usually caused by a bad battery. |
