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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through September 14, 2010 » Caliper rebuild at 14,000??? « Previous Next »

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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well i finally broke down and bought the wave front rotor and new pads. I already had a front caliper rebuild kit laying around the parts drawer. Should i rebuild the caliper while i change the brakes and rotor or just a good cleaning of the pistons and inspection of function?

I am also installing some new clip on handle bars and grips as well. Then i have to install new velcro strips under the fuel tank to stop the vibration noise(s)It is making again.

I am also going to rotate my air filter so the air temp sensor is on the bottom and try to hide the wire on the sensor better.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would doubt that the caliper needs anything other than a little cleaning.
I mean, you didn't find it on the beach or anything, right?
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

LOL no i didn't i just thought if it needed it i would do it while the wheel is off.
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Blackm2
Posted on Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If it isn't leaking and still stops your bike I wouldn't mess with it. But that's me. I have 31,000 on my Cyclone. I have over 250,000 on my Jeep! Never even bled the brakes.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Your brake pads tell the story. If both pads are worn the same amount, you're golden. Just clean and re-install.

If, as has happened to me before on the X-1, you pull the pads and one is much more worn than the other, one or more of the pistons is stuck and a rebuild is in order.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Road_thing
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

rt
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Russ,
I just cleaned mine,with break cleaner and a shoe lace to buff the grits off of the pistons, and changed the fluid,

remove pads and caliper ( still attached to mc hose )

place a metal bar in the space between the pistons about 3/4" thick I have some machinisists parallels but 6 pices of 1.5" x 1/8" alminum flat bar will do.

carefuly pump the mc till the pistons are further out but not out of the caliper
spray liberaly with BC, to remove the gross dust, wet a cotton shoe string( synthetic may melt in the bc) and buff the back side with the wet string, spray the string and buff the next repeat till all pistons are as clean as you can get them sll the way around.

with the top off of the mc, and rags all over every thing gently press the pistons back in the caliper, you want to watch the mc fluid level and remove fluid as needed
I have a vacuun tool and catch can so I then remove almost all break fluid,

replace the fluid I then bled the caliper and ALMOST emptied the MC cup 2 times, replace the fluid again, and refit the pads and caliper pump the lever once rotor and pads are in place, letting the lever snap forward watch the fluid level

when correct you get full travel of firm lever as it should be, my mc and caliper are comming up on rebuild time, the FSM says every 4 years, per Buellistic I change the fluid every year and clean the pistons, pad wear is even and the feel usualy stays firm.

if not plan on a rebuild.

I notice that as the year approaches the front brake gets excessivly mushy
usualy due to crap (water?) in the fluid
( its yellow by this time )

YMMV}
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Preybird1
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ok guys and girls........The new rotor and brakes are installed. I also installed the clip on handle bars.

I hung the bike from a laundry line post shaped like a T and used a small hydraulic jack to get the front wheel up enough to get the fork tubes down enough to slip the clip ons on the tubes.

This is how i hung the bike, This picture is from the rear shock install.
Here are some pics...



wave rotor














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Preybird1
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That shoe string idea is really good one oldog. I was using a "T" handle allen tool (the handle part of it) to keep the pistons from coming out to far. I wish i knew that shoe string idea sooner. I did notice the small lower outboard piston was not working so well. I looked at the pad and the outboard pad on the bottom had just a bit more wear on then than the other pad.....But they were pretty evenly worn so i didn't worry about it. I went ahead and put on some ferodo sintered pads. $66.00 they better be worth it. I guess anything is far better that the paint shaker stock rotor.
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