| Author | Message | ||
     Scott_in_nh |
So we are coming to that time of year where the temperatures, especially the morning temperatures, are dropping. I know hand warmers will keep me riding more often and possibly even extend the season a little. I have traction grips that I would like to keep, but would consider other grips as well. What is the cheapest way to add effective heat? What is the best way? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
The ones that worked the best for me were the Polly Heaters: http://www.pollyheaters.com/ph400.htm I will be buying a set for the M2. The get hot like a mofo, slip inside the bar for easy clean installation, and allow for secure grip installation. Plus, they are great folks to deal with. I needed a set quickly for a trip. They don't accept credit cards. They were willing to mail me a set with the promise that a check being in the mail. That was awesome and sold me on their small company. I think Vern (ETennuly) is still using my old set. | ||
| Buellish |
+1 on the polly heaters.I've had them on my S2 for a couple of years now and would buy them again.For less than $50,$40 for the polly heaters and 7 or so for a relay.You get great heat,they don't add thickness to your grips,they are easy to install and like the large bastard says you couldn't ask for better folks to deal with. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You can get the polly heaters from big online places as well (non sponsors). I have most of the kinks worked out in my thermostat setup for those heaters. The last piece in the puzzle is to figure out the best way to package the electronics. For now I just use about half a roll of electrical tape, then zip tie that down to keep it from unraveling. Works fine for me, but my beta tester thinks he had some issues with that setup after several days rain riding on an ALCAN trip... so I am trying to come up with something better. If you go with my thermostat, you can just get the "snowmobile" polly heaters with just one heat setting (bake). And don't drill a hole or put in the soon to rust toggle switch. You can stash my thermostat setup all under the flyscreen. It is still open loop, meaning it is guessing what the heater power should be based on ambient temperature. So it will be calibrated right for normal riding, but could get toasty if you are stuck in traffic (no air flow sucking the heat away). So in that regard, they are just like the normal polly heaters with the two position switch except that it is about a 150 position switch and that there is a computer setting it to the right position based on ambient air temp. I could run it closed loop, and put my temperature sensor up in the bars, but that seems really fragile to me and just moves the problem (the temp difference between your palm and the back of your hand will approach 70 degrees on a cold day, what the heck should I be measuring?). The circuit now has a pot to bias the overall curve (say you want to put it on an M2 without any handguards, or you just like it hotter or colder), and it also has a "your stator just died" indicator with a few clever features. I don't have a commercial partner for production lined up yet, so I am not sure what I am going to do with them. Maybe open source the hardware design, and sell the programmed chips. Anyway, I'm not scaled up for production, and have the next 3 I do build already promised out, and I have to order another batch of parts. But it will probably be an option (especially if you can solder something up yourself if I send you a bag full of parts). The more mature option is the two position Polly motorcycle heaters, combined with the factory switch insert for your existing handlebar pod kit from Al at American Sportbike. Anyway, I like the Polly heaters a lot. My buddy with the blackbird has to resolder his throttle side grip heater wire every fall, every time he turns the throttle it wears a little. I like the "nothing moves" aspect of the Polly setup (though it does take a few minutes more for the heat to get to you). | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Perfect! I actually have some other grips in mind, but they wouldn't allow the use of under grip elements - these solve that dilemma. Unless somebody here shows me something even better - I'll be ordering these! | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
So Al will have a switch I can mount on my S3 switchgear? Your setup sounds slick Reep, the hand heaters on my sled has two positions - too hot and too cold! Another choice could be just a rheostat right? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'm with you. Those were the settings on mine also. Either too hot and too cold, or just too hot and way too hot. The thermostat setup isn't perfect either, but it's wrong in smaller increments, and wrong with less work.  The rheostat would have to be high power and will be just another failure point. So I'd go with the switch or my digital thermostat. The toggle switch that comes with the more expensive Polly setup (still cheap) works fine, I just hated drilling a hole in the motorcycle to mount it, and got tired of it always being in the wrong setting. But it has hi / low / off just like anything else. Al's switches mount on the new XB's, can't remember if that was the same pods as on the S3. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
If the switch from Al won't work (or is to expensive) I luckily have a dashboard for mounting, but I will not drill a hole and I will not use that ugly metal switch - I'll find something nicer I can mount on the side! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I used and really like the Symtec round rocker switch: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/symtec-handl ebar-warmer-kit-metal-toggle-switch.aspx?a=586311  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I have the Heat Demons on my S2, I'm going to use them on my Uly as well. They work well all the way down to 20 deg or so. The Uly install should be easier since it has a 1 piece bar instead of 2 on the S2. | ||
| Preybird1 |
+1 on the heat demons, I have them on my kawasaki klr650 and they have a 4 heat settings. They are expensive though $130 for the whole kit. I got mine on special for $115 shipped from amazon.com | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
While you cannot beat the price of the Polly Heaters, those Heat Demons look great! I need to take a close look at my bike to see what my mounting options are for the control. Decisions, decisions! | ||
| Prior |
I just can't wait to try out Reep's thermostat... | ||
| Easy_rider |
Scott, Assuming that you're putting this on your S3, there's an nice, predrilled hole in the mount area between the handlebars and the fairing assembly. That's where my switch from Al is. Like everyone else, low it too low, and high is too high. I'm pretty sure there's enough room in that cavity to put in a thermostat type device. | ||
| Xl1200r |
The best heated grips are skipping them and getting heated gloves. I've never had heated grips actually keep my hands warm when it's been cold enough to wear thicker winter gloves. | ||
| F_skinner |
That is my experience as well... Heated grips are ok when it is not too cold but gloves are the way I go... (I ride all year in Colorado) | ||
| Preybird1 |
I have a pair of gerbing heated gloves and the wiring in them keeps breaking and "I" actually opened the gloves up and repaired them my self a few times. Overall they were not a good choice for me. The gloves them selves block a lot of the wind because of the leather. If i were to do it again i would get the wireless battery powered gloves. I hated having the power cable to the gloves running down the sleeves on the jacket. | ||
| Fasted |
an expensive, yet very effective combo is the gerbing dual controller with the sleeved jacket liner and gloves. if you are a real comfort ho, go for the pants liners as well. i stay toasty enough that my feet decide when i have had enough. i'm thinkin' about the heated sox to make january thru march more fun. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
For me here in New Hampshire it is just a matter of adding some comfort at the beginning and end of the season. we'll have cool mornings then warm afternoons followed by cool evenings. So heated gloves or clothing are not the solutions I seek. I want it available on the bike 100% of the time and not have to worry about wires or batteries. When it gets too cold I ride the sled, when it gets too hot I take the boat out. I don't enjoy and have no reason to ride the bike when it is very hot or very cold. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Scott, if your need is only as you say, then grips may be good enough, but think about how you hold a grip and what the wind does. Your thumbs hardly get any heat and that backs of your hands and fingers will get cold as well. Just food for thought. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I prefer grips to gloves simply because they are always on the bike and here in the south it doesn't get that cold. If I lived in a northern climate and rode all year, I'd get gloves. Or a car. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I ride when it's 20 out, the Heat Demons work VERY well for me. I have to turn them down about half way to work. I think the important part of installing them is to run a power wire all the way back to the battery or "aux" relay. Get full voltage and power to them and they really work. Brad | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I used this info as a starting point, then bought a Buell controller from Al and used that on the XB, still futzing around with the wiring on the Cyclone due to using a resistor style set-up on that bike. I am really hoping to make it work since those elements were a Christmas gift from the wife a few years ago, it would be nice to make it work... http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/heated-g rips-alt.php http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/heated-g rips.php http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.ph p | ||
| Easy_rider |
FWIW, Harbor Freight sells a cheap heat gun and sleeving in long lengths that will make a cleaner install. I looked at electronics shops in the area when I installed mine and came up empty. Now that I've found these I need to go back and do some cleanup. |
