| Author | Message | ||
     S3ter |
I have done search and have a pretty good idea how to do change. Have 2000 S3T. Looks like drain plug will be tough to remove without pulling D&D. No problem. I have pitbulls so no problem in getting bike upright. My questions are these. After I remove oil, what is the easiest way to refill? Is it absolutely necessary to pull clutch inspection cover? And if I do will I have to remove clutch cable? Do I just add a quart or is there a specific level to fill the oil? Could I simply add the transmission oil through the primary chain inspection cover? Thanks and sorry if I am rehashing old threads. (Message edited by s3ter on August 24, 2010) | ||
| 5liter |
I don't think you have to pull the cover off. Pour it in through the chain inspection cover hole. I take my clutch cover off to check the level when I fill it. I usually drop my D&D when I change fluid, but that's just me. | ||
| Buell_bert |
You will hear a few different opinions I am sure. My Buell tranny/primarys just get a drain and add 1 quart thru the chain adjuster cover (with a small funnel and a piece of hose pushed on it). I have yet to have any shifting or clutch problems for the last 4 years. If it would be so picky you would have problems on a ride up or down any extended hill or even mountain. Spearfish Canyon takes at least 25-30 minutes to traverse one way and I have done it a few times. Hey go with what you believe, it is your bike. Good Luck. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Do it right, or don't even go to the trouble of picking up your tools and putting the bike on the PitBulls. Pull the clutch cover (you do NOT have to pull the clutch cable). Adjust your clutch cable ("shorten" the adjuster in front of the engine, and remove the end from the clutch hand lever so there is no tension - 9/16 locknut and 1/2 fittings - take off the spring and locknut and turn the COUNTERCLOCKWISE screw in the center of the clutch in till it lightly bottoms, then back it out 1/4 turn; LUBE your clutch cable from the top and reinstall it to the lever and adjust the cable for lever freeplay). Pull the chain inspection cover and adjust your primary chain - the adjuster bolt is on the bottom near the drain plug. Replace the drain plug, put one quart of fluid in the case through whichever opening you choose (a funnel and hose help immensely, no matter which you use), button it up with new gaskets and be amazed at how much smoother and easier shifting is, "all of a sudden". But, don't take my word for it.... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Make sure to replace the drain plug BEFORE refilling the primary. DAMHIK  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Ah, good. 'least I'm not the only one...  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
No, I've don it three times so far. | ||
| Spiderman |
No, I've don it three times so far. HAHAHAHA Newb | ||
| S3ter |
Excellent advice. My Saturday project is set. | ||
| Eboos |
Just for a heads up, if you haven't before, you may want to pull your primary cover and check your primary tensioner. I went to replace my clutch yesterday and when I pulled the primary cover, I noticed that my tensioner was broken. Nothing was displaced, but it would have been if I didn't fix it. I am replacing mine with the thicker one today. Even if your's isn't broken, replace it anyway with the thicker one. Your 2000 came with the weaker tensioner. | ||
| S3ter |
When inspecting primary chain service manual says to rotate engine to move primary chain to a different position on sprockets. How do you rotate engine? Bump starter? | ||
| 5liter |
Put it in gear and rotate the rear wheel to move the engine. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Also, it's much easier to rotate if you remove the plugs.. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I've done the book method and the Buellistic method and couldn't get the chain to the right adjustment. I made up my own. Seems to work. Shifting is much better. Accounts for tight spots and loose spots. | ||
| S3ter |
Want to thank Ratbuell for pushing me to do the full monte. Everything is in service manual so that was a big help. Changed the oil with new filter. Changed the transmission fluid. Adjusted clutch, it was loose. Adjusted primary chain, it was loose. Tightened and lubed clutch cable. I also put all new brake fluid in and bled brakes. Shifting is very direct and neutral is much easier to find. Bike currently has 11000 miles on it and feels like new. Had HD dealership do 5000 mile service at 6000 miles. Sure didn't feel like this after dealership did service. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Glad to help! ...and you forgot to mention, you are now "at one" with your motorcycle, more than ever  Do a couple of those services, and you'll notice that as you go down the road you can mentally troubleshoot more and more of it on-the-fly. You'll equate more of the "it's doing this" with "I need to adjust that", and your ownership (partnership?) experience will get deeper and stronger. That 11k will be 100k in no time! |
