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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through August 14, 2010 » Need help on Electrical Problem (M2) « Previous Next »

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Homestead311
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 04:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So my '01 M2 engine quit during a ride today. I went to re-start it and the battery didn't have enough juice to crank the engine. What is the most common problem? Regulator, Battery, What??? the Battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and always maintained. never had a problem like this. The bike started strong just before the ride. What should I check first?
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Maxbuell
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 05:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Starter Relay, ground, make sure battery is fully charge.
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

First thing is make sure your cables are tight at the battery, it happens a lot.
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Brinnutz
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'd check the Voltage Regulator as well. Easy test to figure if it's good or not. (With a multimeter)
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 11:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

As PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE you should check your battery treminals(at the battery and at the end of the cables -starter/frame ground) for tightness every 5K miles ...

When not riding you should keep your battery on trickle charge(recoment a BATTERY PLUS charger) ...

All batteries and charging systems are created(made) equal, "BUT" are not equal as some last longer than others ...

example: "i have almost 110 thousand miles on my charging system and still have the OEM regulator and stator/rotor, "BUT do not keep the battery in until the last electron is removed ...

When my trickle charger will not float the battery, "i" get a new one !!!

When you take your battery in the have it tested, it will be LOAD TESTED which shortens the batteries LIFE ...

The only LOAD TEST that should be done on you battery is starting your bike !!!

Any time you discharge your battery its start life decreases 20%, ie: you start out with a batter with a 100% charge and there after its life decreases in steps of 20% until it will no longer start your bike and it is buy a new battery time ...

Put you battery on a car charger for 24 hours, if then it will not start your bike you need a new battery ...

If you have to get a new battery, put it on a car charger for 24 hours so it will be at a 100% start voltage/start amps. ...

The naysayers will say you do not have to put a new battery on a 24 hour charge, well their battery is their battery and yours is the one you should be doing correctly if you want the max. life out of it ...

You can easily check your charging voltage with a electronic VOM meter by starting your bike and idle(1000 RPM)and with the selector switch on anything higher than 15 volts, measure the charging voltage which should be between 13 to 14 volts, BUT less than 15V ...

The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for your MODEL/YEAR will tell you how to check the ALTERNATOR out put and VOLTAGE REGULATOR out put(you should also have the PARTS BOOK) ...
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Reepicheep
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Stator failures are not uncommon. They are easy to test for as well.

Test 1: Sniff the primary fluid.

Test 2: Disconnect the stator / VR connection and measure pin to pin and pin to ground resistance in ohms (as per the manual).
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