| Author | Message | ||
     Ft_bstrd |
On the M2, I have a really hard time finding neutral. If the bike is moving or if I blip the throttle, I can find it, but sitting still or with the motor not running, finding neutral is difficult. I've adjusted the primary and clutch. Where else should I look? | ||
| Buellistic |
Three things to check: Primary chain tooo tight, FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL Spec. not loose enough(3/4 inch on the chain tight spot) ... Clutch not correctly adjusted(FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL is right on this instance ... +++ Worn or incorrectly adjusted shift mechanisum(FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL is right on this instance)... | ||
| Fahren |
Or detent plate not updated. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I've seen the pictures of the detent plate with the button head screw. What other updates are there? Will this update require upgrading the shifter drum as well? | ||
| Maddanthony_59 |
Another thing I've recently discovered was changing the Lube in the Clutch to Mobil-1 20W - 50. It had Dyno-Lube in it previoulsy. Neutral was "Findable", but it took some work. Now it's Click, Big GREEN "N" Lights Up, Done. maybe this isn't your problem, but if you're not using Synthetic it would probably help. | ||
| Spiderman |
There is a way to align the detent plate that makes shifting easier as well. You can find it in your manual... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I'll have to plan to dig around in the primary, it appears. Now I just have to decide if the finding of the neutral is hard enough to justify the effort. If I crack the primary open, I might as well do the clutch and clutch cable. I plan to do the easy things first: 1) Recheck clutch adjustment 2) Recheck primary chain adjustment 3) Replace primary fluid If that doesn't correct the problem..... | ||
| Spiderman |
If that doesn't correct the problem..... Adjust detent plate while you are in there... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I can't adjust the detent plate without pulling the primary case can I? | ||
| Buelltours |
nope, but you can come over and try out the updated shift linkage and see if you will have an easier time finding neutral. Your monkey bar is shaking quite a bit... :-) | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I thought we weren't going to talk about my monkey bar.   | ||
| Jramsey |
To adjust the detent plate with the .116 drill bit requires pulling the stator,chain,clutch basket. | ||
| Ottr1967 |
Spiderman- does this detent plate adjustment work on the S3's as well. I have a 2001 S3T that shifts a little hard, if I ever wear my running shoes for a short ride it is painful to shift. | ||
| Sparky |
Don't overlook the simple things: whereas the lever freeplay may be adjusted within spec, and the proper lube may be filled and to the correct level, and all the other mechanical things in the clutch may be cleaned/adjusted/replaced/modified correctly, don't forget that these trannys have big heavy gears that depend on a ramp style shift mechanism that may (or may not) have a fair amount of stiction to overcome when changing gears. So, the shaky vibes that the Buell/Sportster motor exhibits at idle may help when trying to find Neutral. Try revving a few hundred rpms over idle speed (give it a quick short rev) when trying to find Neutral and, more often than not, the increased shaking will jostle the gear changer into finding Neutral. Works for me, most times.  | ||
| Bigdaddy |
I would adjust the primary chain by not following the manual. You can get by with nearly 1" at the tight spot and it still won't slap any hard parts. In my case (65,xxx miles + 2002 M2) it was the only way to make finding N easy. YMMV | ||
| Spiderman |
Spiderman- does this detent plate adjustment work on the S3's as well. I have a 2001 S3T that shifts a little hard, if I ever wear my running shoes for a short ride it is painful to shift. It is for any Buell. It should be in your manual for the proper procedure. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: If finding NEUTRAL seems to be a problem no matter what you do, just put it in neutral before you stop ... TOOOO tight a primary chain affects the transmission the same way a TOOOO tight a drive belt(or drive chain for those that have them) ... If you'll want a copy of ADJUSTING THE PRIMARY CHAIN[TUBE FRAME, BLAST, and XB's]/DRIVE BELT(or chain)[TUBE FRAME/SPORTSTER} Class 101, just PM me and a copy is yours ... | ||
| Guell |
yep, i just click mine into neutral when coming to a stop. I hit the sweet spot once on the clutch, but have never found it again, oh well. I think its about time to get that grenade plate out of my bike. | ||
| Midnight_rider |
reving up trick works for me ... with motor not running donot touch clutch rock back an forth with pressure on gear lever slips into netural easy!.... | ||
| Midnight_rider |
the trick is no clutch..... just rock on baby.... | ||
| Anthonye |
I had the same trouble in my '97 S3 and it turned out to be the anti chatter disc thing in the clutch pack coming apart. I removed it and the broken rivets and replaced it with 3 metal discs and now it works great. Check it out as a possibility.  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
That looks ugly. If I'm going to climb into the primary, I'm gonna replace the service parts in there. I'll check the "explosion with shards and shit flying around in the primary" ring while I'm in there. | ||
| Jramsey |
Ride it and quit worrying about it shifting like a zuke, it ain't gunna happen. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Oh, I plan to. | ||
| The4ork |
i have a problem getting a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd, and its also very hard for me to find neutral... but in the opposite conditions, when the motor is running its much harder than when not. ive redone my clutch and primary chain adjusments several times, and even deliberately leaving the primary loose or tight which makes no real difference. could the detent plate be an issue for me? i just had the primary out and the detent plate looked to be in good shape | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Anthonye You should have used 2 metal and one fiber plate. | ||
| Oldog |
Fatty, the "Grenade Plate" is probably good to 40K miles or more, its not likely the problem. to get at the shift adjustment and detent plate the cover must be removed, then the clutch basket and alternator bell, the clutch pack can remain in one piece its said while in there, consider doing the engine crankshaft seal they quit at around 25K or thereabouts, the build one is single lip the replacement will be double lipped, you will need the installer ring, and if you do the g-plate the spring compressor. also the torquewrench and socket for the engine nut, and a locking bar ( you can improvise one ) I sent you the torque wrench once apon a time for you and Barker to use with the bow shifter I bet you have significant slop in the mechanisim, the 2002 should have the updated plate, on ocasion the pins get loose and or the snap wring that holds the detent plate on works loose or comes off. let me know if you want to borrow the wrench, BTW you may know there is an S1 manual here some where (electronic) and the basic info is in there, if you dont have a paper manual. | ||
| Anthonye |
Bluzm2 You are absolutely right! Trouble is they sell metal discs for a couple of bucks each and you have to buy a complete set of fiber discs for a lot more money--I think it was over $100. I took the cheap route and it all works fine. Ft_Bstrd -- It looks like you are going to have to take things apart and see what is wrong. Sportster engines are actually simple and easy to work on. | ||
| Anthonye |
Oldog How can you tell if the crankshaft seal is bad? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I know. I'm gonna have to do some wrenching to get it just right. It works well enough for now. If the simple things don't work, I'll dig into the more complex stuff as a winter project. Swapping out the clutch on the XB wasn't much of a problem. Pulling the rest of this apart shouldn't be much worse. Just work and patience. I have the M2 Service Manual. |
