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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through July 24, 2010 » Installing new exhaust header on M2, should I replace the exhaust studs too? « Previous Next »

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Randy_spann
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

And what is the "proper" way to get the old studs out. Should the new studs be installed with locktite?
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

IMHO, not unless threads are bad ...

Have never had a BAD exhaust stud in 109,547.3 miles(1997 S3T) as of the last ride due to PROPER EXHAUST INSTALLATION ...

EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION Class 101 available upon request, just PM me ...
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Randy_spann
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Threads are fine. I've never had a problem. (knock on wood!) Just don't want to have a problem either!
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How about the just the question of threadlocker goop?
Blue, Red, Purple, Other, None?
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Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thread locker is pretty useless on a header bolt. They get too hot and the locker becomes ineffective.
Just install with the manual indicated torque and call it good.
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Preybird1
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would not use any locktite on those. If you happen to break a stud off they will be so hard to get out. I have done this and it made the job so much harder. If you do use "red" it will not cook off from just the normal heat.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

IMHO, copper anti-seize compound(get at NAPA)is the only thing to use ...
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

+1 anti-seize.
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The4ork
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

opposite,

anti-seize or nothing on studs. i like anti sieze because it acts as a lubricant when installing the studs tight to keep the aluminum threads from being cut by the hardened steel stud.

also, it acts as a cushion when the two metals expand at different rates when heated and cooled.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

personally, I'm not a big fan of those "interference" nuts that come from the factory.
I can't tell how tight they are!
Rust is the best locktight.

I suggest using normal fine thread nuts and riding through a rainstorm : )
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"i" know how tight my "INTERFERENCE" nuts are because "i" use a TORQUE WRENCH, torque'ing evenly to 6 ft.lbs. MAX. ...
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