| Author | Message | ||
     Ft_bstrd |
Ok, Cornel and I are going to do the iso swap. Do I need to remove both the muffler and shock or just the muffler in order to support the engine while I spread the frame and remove and replace the isos? Seems that it would be easier to do if I'm not battling a floppy swing arm. Thanks. | ||
| 46champ |
I did mine while doing a top O/H removed the exhaust left the shock in place. | ||
| Fahren |
You should not spread the frame. Look in the manual under engine removal. You should be able to tape on the isolators and lower the frame back down w/o frame spread - despite the existence of a Harley frame spreading tool that would indicate otherwise. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
I believe you need to at least unbolt the back mount as it is easier to get the iso's out and in with the back lowered Has anybody actually measured the so called frame spreading? I know for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction, but what I saw was the isolator compressing, not the frame "spreading" any discernable amount. I am sure it moves some, heck the frame flexes every time you ride it, but if you see the frame spreading you did something really wrong. You don't need the tool, $8 at the hardware store gets you everything you need. Why drop the motor when with a few twists of a wrench the isolators fall right out? | ||
| Hootowl |
FB, You need to throw the manual away for this one. Two options: 1. Hang rear end of motorcycle. Disconnect rear shock at the swingarm. Take out the four bolts that connect the swingarm mounting block to the engine cases. Remove the isolator bolts. Remove the swingarm and mounting block as a unit. The isolators fall out. Reverse the process. 2. Isolator compression. Requires a home made tool. I'll try to find a link to the instructions. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
The Unauthorized "Scott Free" Technique for Changing Buell Isolators I used this method minus the pipe on the wrench because the extra leverage was not required.... | ||
| Gowindward |
The "Scott Free" method works very well. The frame does not spread, the isolator compresses. The service manual method is JUNK!!!! | ||
| Hootowl |
Thanks, that was the link I was looking for. | ||
| Buellistic |
Want a copy of th "SCOTT FREE" method, just PM me and a copy is yours ... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Buellistic, Thanks. That's the method I'm using per your previous email. I didn't read enough into "Make sure you have plenty of room to move around below it's nether regions." I've removed the muffler and shock. She's trussed up, gutted, and ready to go. Only thing left is go compress the iso, drop 'em out, replace them and bolt it all back together. One thing I've discovered is that the rear hugger is a pain to get loose. You simply CAN'T do it without pulling the rear of the shock loose because of the passenger pegs. Nice to have it all apart to be able to clean the "hidden" parts. I can see how people can get sucked into frame up restorations. | ||
| Jramsey |
>>Can't do it without pulling the..... Have Ft_bstrd sit on it while your helper removes the hugger screws.  | ||
| Guell |
yea i understand getting sucked up into the frame up resto. Its what ill be digging into this winter. You might want to consider putting a new belt on, the new xb belts fit. Since its a pain in the butt to replace a belt on a m2 | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Yeah, I just don't have the $$$ to spring for a belt right now. I'm sure I'll regret it and will be doing this whole procedure again in a few months. | ||
| Ebutch |
Works Great!!!!!!! Didn,t need helper bar ether.  ( my Seal Of Approval) Scott-Free Method. (Message edited by ebutch on July 07, 2010) | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
SFM employed. Isos are in! Now I just gotta put it all back together. Looks like my bike hit and IED. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The SFM sure looks like a good trick for rear isolator replacement. I did the "drop the swingarm carrier" method when I changed the isolators on my S3 and that was a good all-day job. BTW Ft_bstrd, tuber belts typically last upwards of 50,000 miles, just be sure to leave it "scary loose" when you adjust it. ABTW- have you posted any pics of your bike? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
ABTW- have you posted any pics of your bike? Yup!  Got everything back together. Waiting for a tire to come in. Hope to have it tomorrow. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Sweet! Nice tuber. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Tire's in Nashville. Hopefully it will make it to Franklin for delivery tomorrow. | ||
| Buelltours |
I got my new set installed and will be ready for the weekend :-) | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
So you went to see Chad? Mine is supposed to be delivered tomorrow. I have to go to dinner tomorrow night, so the first opportunity I'm going to have to be able to ride will be Saturday if I can get to Chad's and get it changed first thing in the morning. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
It's all back together and no missing pieces.  We'll see if the work pays off! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Ok, took it for a ride. Vibrations are less, but there are still some vibes. Where else should I look? Front Iso is good. Headers are not making frame contact. All other tie bars and connectors appear to be in good order. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Being a tuber, it will vibrate more than an XB. You might ask Cornel for a second opinion or ride his S3 for a comparison. One other thing worth checking is the primary chain adjustment. A too-loose primary will definitely cause vibes. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Cornel and I rode together yesterday and swapped bikes. He agreed that the M2 had more vibrations than did his bike. I adjusted the primary chain but I will see if a few more turns of the screw reduces the vibrations. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Be careful- too tight can cause problems like hard shifting, primary shoe wear, etc. Adjust it by the book; if it still vibrates, that's not the problem. The only other thing I can suggest is check basic engine tune- maybe install a fresh set of spark plugs (which is a MUCH easier job on a tuber than an XB). | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Yep, plugs are on the list for routine maintenance along with the front forks and brake fluid. | ||
| Hughlysses |
FB- in case you haven't seen it, this is a great site for tuber info and tips: http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/ | ||
| Guell |
It wouldnt vibrate more than a s3 because of the cams would it? Never ridden any other buell than my m2 | ||
| Bookyoh |
I have an M2 and an S3T and would say the vibration characteristics are about the same above idle. |
