| Author | Message | ||
     Wvbueller |
OK, riding my bike the other day and started finding false neutrals in the higher gears. I thought my shifter linkage was coming loose so I tightened it up. Still not fix. Went on another little ride and all I had was 1 and 3 gear, bike wont go in neutral now either. I am in some sort of neutral, but my light isnt on, I go past it, but it wont stay on. So I am out of ideas, I dont know much about the transmisson. Any and all help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks to all BADWEBERS, this is a great site. Please Help. | ||
| Oldog |
wv pull the primary cover, and start looking, you may have to pull the clutch / alternator too start by checking the cam & pins on the shift drum, we're lucky the tranny can be pulled w/o splitting the cases if need be | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I had similar symptoms on my 2000 X1 and it ended up being the detent plate had come loose from the shift drum. The OEM parts attach by sliding the detent plate over a dowel on the shift drum and holding it in place with a "C" clip. Aftermarket designs utilize a button head allen through the detent plate into a tapped hole in the shift drum. The aftermarket design is a lot more precise and trustworthy. This is what you'll see when pulling off the clutch. (except yours will have the clip instead of the button head allen screw)  A better view of what the shift drum and detent plate look like as a unit.  OEM shift drum with detent plate removed.  When the "C" clip on mine broke it got behind the rotor and chewed up the wiring on the stator. | ||
| Preybird1 |
sounds like the shifter forks are binding up. I would pull the tranny and check the shift drum. As stated above. It may be a good time to have the whole thing freshened up by a pro. When i had mine beefed up i had zippers build the tranny for road racing. I went with the billet trap door 3 new gears all new shifter forks and pins, A baker smooth shift kit, All the springs and bearings replaced, A new shifter pawl assembly, Then a full back cut on all of the gears, And finished with a baker race clutch with the extra plate kit. Total cost was about $1700.00 | ||
| Wvbueller |
Thanks for the info, PK, thanks for the pic's. I really think that will help. Thanks guys. | ||
| Steveford |
I was having those problems and it turned out that one of the pins was backing out which would push out the detente plate which would then screw up the clip. Clean those pins really well and hit them with Green Loctite. I put some Green on the clip as well and after that, all is well. | ||
| Nein_collins |
So is this something with someone who has limited tools can do? Mine started doing the same damn thing this weekend, its time for an oil change anyway, and I planned to change the primary fluid too. Pulling out those pins and putting loctite on them sounds like a good idea, can they be removed and reinstalled easily? It seems as though every week something pops up... Gray (Message edited by nein_collins on July 08, 2010) | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
To get this far, the only special tools you would need are a clutch spring compressor and a primary locking bar. You may not even need the spring compressor, I can't picture in my head how exactly it all works in there.. been a while since I was inside the primary.. but you may be able to pull the clutch pack out of the way without disassembling it. | ||
| Nein_collins |
hmm..this sounds like something that may be past my skills...wonder how expensive this would be at a dealer, although there is a place up the road who specializes in v-twins...hmm.. I could order the tools and a new gasket from American Sportbike, a co-worker has primary oil, and I've got the service manual... | ||
| Jramsey |
>>you may be able to pull the clutch.... Yep, no compressor required unless servicing the clutch disc's, comes off as a complete unit. 2 sockets,snapring pliers and locking bar are main the tools needed. Clutch hub nut is L/H thread. | ||
| Nein_collins |
lol, got permission to upgrade to the Baker smooth shift kit from my "investor" on the lines of well I can fix it for now, but with this I could fix it for good. I'm gonna look thru my service manual tonight and see what its all about. Then I'll crack open the primary and see what's going on in there Gray | ||
| Davefl |
Before you spend the money on the Baker give these guys a call. They mod the stock shift drum to get rid of the spring clip. I have there parts in one of my S3's and will go back to them whenever I need any transmission work. http://www.r-dmotorsports.com/ | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I have the Baker smooth shift kit in mine and although it's nice, it's not enough of an improvement over the stock unit (IMO) to justify the $$$. My favorite benefit of the Baker parts is of course the elimination of the weak "C" clip design. If you need a new detent plate and shift drum anyway (doubtful) then go ahead and get the baker kit, otherwise look for a cheaper solution. | ||
| Davefl |
R&D cuts threads on the end of the shift drum and cuts a relief in the detent plate to secure it with a nylock nut. They also chamfer the shift drum. Bike shifts much smoother. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Davefl has it right about R&D...Mark and the guys are the real deal...They were the only ones I would let near my dragbike transmissions. |
