| Author | Message | ||
     Scottorious |
So I am sort of overall just not happy with the 1125r so I think im going to be coming back to this board more often. Id like to get the x1 set up for some long haulin. Ive noticed that my front forks have what feels to be a "clunk" in them and I am going to rebuild them. Any suggestions on mods to improve comfort for the long hauls in suspension set up? Is a works performance rear shock a good investment? | ||
| Brinnutz |
You can buy new forks on eBay for about $300 A Works or a Penske is a very good investment for a Tuber. Completely rebuildable is definitely a selling point. Also, if you're going to be touring on it, I'd go with the fully adjustable with ride height adjustment (I went with the Penske for this reason). Give Al a call and he can tell you what you need to know. There was a Works brand new on eBay a couple days ago, may be gone by now. (Message edited by brinnutz on June 30, 2010) | ||
| Kalali |
"You can buy new forks on eBay for about $300" Are these new OEM forks? Interesting. My HD/Buell dealer quoted me $475 to change my (X1) fork oil! | ||
| Hootowl |
Aye I just bought a pair, 299.99 plus about $18 to ship them. Brand new from the dealer. They're beautiful. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Yes they are new, like I said...lol http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-99-02-X1-Righ t-and-Left-Front-Fork-Assemblies-/390206034525?cmd =ViewItem&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=it em5ada17925d | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Or for about the same money you can replace the seals and bushings, add Race Tech springs and a gold valve and have forks that are superior to new stock forks.... The difference is just short of amazing! Oh, and yes on a Works or Penske (I went with the Penske) | ||
| Kalali |
"Or for about the same money you can replace the seals and bushings, add Race Tech springs and a gold valve and have forks that are superior to new stock forks...." Of course that's if you do the work and not pay someone else. That's my winter project so heads up for all the stupid questions coming your way... | ||
| Kalali |
I just looked at the St. Paul site and in the product description it says: "Left fork is rebound, and right fork is compression" What is that supposed to mean? | ||
| Guell |
they are describing the wrong forks, the wp forks were like that, not the showas | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Of course that's if you do the work and not pay someone else. True, but it was easy. | ||
| Nein_collins |
Scott, I plan to go that route too...stiffer springs based on my weight, new fork oil, and the gold valves. Good to know there is a marked improvement in them..hell I just adjusted mine a little stiffer both ends and it made a big difference..lol Gray | ||
| Scottorious |
with the upgraded suspension would you say that it rides much more comfortably? Granted I have never actually messed with the settings on the suspension nor changed the fork oil but the thing rides like a brick in its current condition. Id like to smooth it out a bit. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
It is hard to describe, because the differences are both subtle and dramatic. Forks with Race Tech springs & gold valves: firm, less dive, small ripples disappear and those harsh jolts that you used to brace for or still habitually brace for, never materialize. Penske rear shock: If you tell them you want it sprung for an "expert" street rider you will get a stout spring. But again the valving comes to the rescue and the ride is firm but never harsh. Diving, see-sawing, pogo-sticking, ass end compressing when gassing it out of a corner - all disappear! I did both ends over the winter so did not get a back to back, before and after comparison and after a while you begin to ask yourself if is really that much better. I was riding with a friend on his all stock but well maintained X1 and after a particularly rough patch of road he commented on how bad it was riding that section. while my S3 was certainly moving up and down over the bumps it was never uncomfortable or unnerving. Gratuitous and oversized photo of my bike ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif)  | ||
| Mick |
I have Hyperpro springs in the forks(X1) and a Penske rear. I put around 10 mm shorter spacers in the front as the springs are longer than stock and they were too stiff. Compared to my mates X1 with standard suspension its chalk and cheese. The good thing with the Penske is you can adjust the compression on the fly easily, and you can definately feel the difference in settings. | ||
| Harold |
Scott, When you did your forks, what weight and type of oil did you use? I just ordered a set of new forks for my S1W off of Ebay, around $250 shipped. I figure this way I can modify them and still ride until I am done. I plan on putting the emulators and now after reading your post, springs for my weight in the new ones. But the oil is a big thing too, and from what I have read the emulators don't need thicker oil. The manual says 5 weight for stock. I have also read that synthetic lasts longer. Anyone here try the synthetic long enough to tell a difference? | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Hi Harold, per the recommendations I received, I'm using 5wt synthetic in my forks. If you were going to use the new forks stock, then you would probably want to go to 7.5wt or 10wt. depending on your weight and damping preferences. | ||
| Blue_pipe |
AAAAHHHHHH! there you go again Scott flashing that beautiful motorcycle....  | ||
| Harold |
Scott, To install the emulators, with new forks, how much do you have to take apart? Looking at the manual, they take it all apart before removing the damping rod, but on re-assembly, it looks like it is the last thing to go in before the spring. With new forks, my seals and bushings are obviously new, and so I don't want to take them out if I don't have to. I will put in new oil and springs anyway. It also looks like they are taking it all apart to be able to hold the damper rod, so as to loosen the bolt that holds it in place. I have heard of getting that bolt out before disassembly, when the rod is tight and doesn't want to move. | ||
| Oldog |
oil and springs take the wheel off, loosen the top leg clamps loosen the caps, dont remove yet take em outa of the trees, remove the caps, remove the, keepers, spacers and springs, dump the oil and pump the legs till no more oil comes out set aside, do other leg, check first then second to get as much as you can out IIRC collapse the legs and fill to about 4" from the top of the tube, pump the legs and recheck correct to about 4" level from top, install spring and keeper, install cap re-assemble bike about 4 hours or less for a competent mechanic taking his time and being deliberate. so for me thats all day... see the KV some where I posted it up with pix | ||
| Oldog |
Harold 1 more 8 mm bolt and washer are holding the damper rod in, note be careful as the rod and cap hold the forks togther Al has all the parts, copper washers are about all thats needed get a long 8mm bit and clean the hole out before you start. DAMHIK | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Once everything is apart as Oldog posted you have to drill a hole in the damper to get the factory valve out. It is real easy to do, but I would suggest a drill press. I used one of the cheap ones that holds a hand drill and a piece of angle aluminum to hold the rod level because the hole is close to the end of the tube so it needs some support. | ||
| Harold |
Thanks guys, I have over 90% of tools known to man, but I just don't like having to use them if I don't have to. Too old, too lazy, and have the minimal $ to buy new forks instead of buying and replacing seals and bushings. From what you both are saying, I can pull the damper rods out to put the emulators in without taking the forks apart? Just pull the top caps, take out the bottom allen bolt, and the springs and damper rod come out? Seals and bushings are not disturbed? Drilling and deburring the damper rod is no problem. I just don't have the time or inclination to rip it all apart, driving out bushings and seals and plastic retainers. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Correct! | ||
| Kalali |
"about 4 hours or less for a competent mechanic taking his time and being deliberate. so for me thats all day..." And for me thats all winter! |
