| Author | Message | ||
     Duceater |
I am hearing a metal clinking noise when going over bumps big and small. It sounds like my rear suspension is contacting my exhaust can. I looked and noticed that one of the rivets had some abrasion as did the coil spring on the suspension. I don't remember when this started, but I know that it wasn't just after I replace the rear shock, and I have the same exhaust header. The only things the I have done to either is polish the header and replace my exhaust gaskets and repacked my exhaust can. I tried to wiggle my exhaust, but its mounted firm. I kicked lightly and don't hear the noise. When the bike is at rest, there is about 1/2" - 2/3" of space between the two parts. I had a buddy compress the suspension while I watched the gap between the exhaust and the coil spring. I really couldn't notice if the gap was closing or not. After reading some posts here, I'm really not certain what could be happening. I read one post that said that it could be my rear isolators. They are not cracked, but do feel a little soft (not sure what new ones feel like). What else could I check? I can not make the clinking noise occur unless I'm riding. I bounced on both the front suspension and the rear suspension and do not hear this noise. Any thoughts on this? thanks! (Message edited by duceater on June 30, 2010) | ||
| Mick |
Battery strap tight? | ||
| Nallac |
Are all your exhaust can rivets tight/inplace?. The header pipe clamps tight?. | ||
| Duceater |
Yup, battery is tight. I just repacked the muffler, so the rivets are new on one end at least. They feel tight on the other end. The whole exhaust system is tight. question, to anyone with the Buell race exhaust, how much space is there b/t the exhaust can and the suspension. I have a Works shock. Also, how much space is there between the swingarm and the inner exhaust mounting bolt? (Message edited by duceater on July 01, 2010) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I had that it it finally turned out to be the front isolator. Put a jack under the front of the engine and lift up slightly. not enough to lift the bike but enough to get the weight off of the front isolator. Look for cracks and tears. Make sure the bolts in the surrounding area are in good shape on the head. | ||
| Duceater |
I just saw that. I was only looking at the top of the isolator. When I looked at the bottom, I discovered that the inboard side is ripped. Thanks for the help! | ||
| Duceater |
For those of you interested... I replaced the front iso and it did not fix the issue. BTW, with the front iso from American Sport Bike, when you have it torqued down correctly, how many threads should be showing coming out of the nut? I don't have a torque wrench that will fit in there, so I thought that this would get it approximately right. I've got the rears coming, so I'll try that next. I'm sure that something is coming in contact with my exhaust can. I just sounds like that. I'm thinking that somehow the engine is getting jolted sideways into the exhaust can. Since the front iso is new, I think the the rears could be the issue. Maybe the swing are is twisting a little and that's what is making the suspension come in contact with the exhaust. Does that make sense? I'm sure there are other posts on this, and I'll go and check myself, but can anyone tell me how much flex the rear iso's should have? I had someone sit on my bike and bounce on it while I looked at the iso bolt. I noticed that its moving up and down quite a bit. The bolt is not contacting the frame, but its not far off. Is this normal? or should the bolts stay pretty much in place. Of course I'd expect a little play since they are made from rubber. Thanks! | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Eric I replaced mine with the new style 2 years ago this September. Give me a call if you want to come by and see how much they deflect. I'd also be willing to take a look at your situation - maybe I'll see something you missed... | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Get a rubber hammer and go around the bike beating on it till you find the rattle.  | ||
| Duceater |
its been a while but I think that I have made some progress. Cyclonecharlie, I went around and fixed the clinking noises produced by the rubber mallet, but I'm still hearing the sound. The one place that I can still produce a clinking noise is my front rotor. Looks like the carrier bolts have some play. I don't hear them making noise when the bike is idling, but funny enough, if I roll over the bumps that would cause the sound while I apply a feather amount of front brake... no noise. Has anyone experienced this before? Could I be hearing a loose brake rotor? I found this thread, but I'm not completely sure if they are talking about when the bike is idling or driving or both. I'm only hearing the noise while driving. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/333724.html Anyone have any input? It would be an expensive test to replace the rotor and carrier if I don't have to. Thanks! | ||
| Buellistic |
If the rotor is indeed making the noise and has not too worn, can be made not to float by putting enough flat shims in to fix ... "BUT" if it is too worn you will have to get a a new rotor, call Al at American Sport Bike(www.AmericanSportBike.com) ... |
