G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through May 25, 2011 » M2 Cutting out 3000-3500 RPM « Previous Next »

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through July 20, 2010Koz515030 07-20-10  02:15 pm
         

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

1125rcya
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is your idle slow or fast?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buell_bert
Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2010 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Capt. I am using NGK's now, but it did have 10R12A's. And Koz a dyno may work on a properly running bike but the 3000-3500 is like a ceiling so right now it would be a waste even if we had one near here. And 1125r the bike idles like a champ. I know I'm getting closer but have been to busy getting another bike ready for Sturgis lately. Plus I think I just needed to sit back and think a bit. Thanks for all the help though.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Captainkirk
Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2010 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the NGK's are the equivalent of the 10R12's, then it's all good. You just don't want a cross from the OEM 6R12 cuz they were detonating under load....and with a race exhaust like mine you can't hear it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buell_bert
Posted on Friday, August 13, 2010 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK I got it running and it idles fine and has plenty of get up and go. I would say it was carb problems (dirty?). It still has the same jets (200/54)it pops some cold but smooths out as it warms. I just cleaned it but did not have a kit first besides the intake seals (all 3). Also that stuff about grinding or opening the Forcewinder bowl vent I think someone just got the gasket on backwards or some crap in it, as long as the gasket and intake line up it should be OK. I looked into mine with a flash light and it necks down from about 1/4 in. to about an 1/8 or less. Also I found out it has a nonstock main needle with out the E-clip slots. I did not touch the timing but have the clear plug and a new compression tester now. Also no popping on accel or deccel once warm so probably rich but I can worry later. Well Thanks for all the help. I sure learned alot on the jetting and in general CV 40 stuff.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Saturday, August 14, 2010 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

James, glad your back on the road....summer will be over before you know it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bluzm2
Posted on Saturday, August 14, 2010 - 11:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Even at sea level, your jetting is fat.
Ball park should be 190 - 195 main and a 45 - 48 pilot.
A 54 is WAY too big.
The stock needle isn't adjustable so you may have the stocker.
What's the number on the needle?
A stock needle shimmed .050", a 45 pilot and 2 1/2 or so turns on the air screw work very well for a stock M2 motor, even with a Force intake and a slip on.

If you have a late model Force, you do need to open up the bowel vent. It WILL affect the performance at mid to upper RPM's.
See the article posted on the NRHS web site.
It's also been posted here a bunch of times.

Brad
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buell_bert
Posted on Saturday, August 14, 2010 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Bluz. I'm at 650 feet/above. One of my other bikes must have a non stock needle then because it has notches and an e-clip with shims. Right now after all the times I've had it apart I'm going to run it. Also on the float bowl vent topic. It is 1/4" dia. at the inlet flange and remains so for approximately 2-1/4" but then it is necked down to somewhere between 3/32 and 7/64 before it enters the bowl area. This is quite a big difference. You can see it quite clearly with a flash light. I have read some of the articles on enlarging the Force but is it because it does not line up or complete lack of the vent area in the casting. Or is enlarging it something to do with the venturi effect. I'll look for and read the NRHS article also and thanks for the advice. As it gets closer to fall I may play around some more with the jetting but right now my Grandson and I are going out for a boat ride. Also I just got back from Sturgis and a stock 2001 M2L with 195/42 jets worked super at home and there. Thanks again for all the support and help ya'all. Misery loves company.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buell_bert
Posted on Saturday, August 14, 2010 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do not know what needle I have. My parts book only lists 1 part number for jet needles. I did read the article from NRHS and I did Email NRHS about the Force bowl vent thing though and will let you know what I find out.

(Message edited by Buell_bert on August 14, 2010)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buell_bert
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It has nothing to do with the vent in the carb. On the Force intake the hole

for the vent is very smalll and it might not let enough air into the vent.

That is why it needs to be enlarged.



Dan

NRHS



I guess I look at it as because of the huge restriction that is allready built into the bowl vent, anything larger than 1/4 inch should not make any difference. Unless it could be that the air comes in at a 90 deg. angle and there is probably more air flow towards the back of the carb where the vent orifice is located. Compared to a normal air cleaner where the air flows more evenly though the carb inlet area. Well sometimes things just work and it is hard to figure out why. I also noticed now while writing this, the port on the Force does not line up properly with the gasket supplied with the kit (I used another gasket before) nor an aftermarket gasket. So there is another restriction (about a 1/3 of the hole). Anyway I will be putting it in my mill and remove a little aluminum. Thanks for the prompt response. Jim

(Message edited by Buell_bert on August 16, 2010)


Yes the way the Force hole lines up with the gasket is also bad which is why it needs to be opened up. As I said it is all about the Forcewinder not the carb.
Dan Dunn
NRHS V-Twin Performance
303-702-1600
www.nrhsperformance.com

(Message edited by Buell_bert on August 16, 2010)
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration