| Author | Message | ||
     Blackm2 |
Anyone have these? Any good? Work okay with Banke rearsets? Thanks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FOOTPEG-RELOCATERS- BUELL-M2-CYCLONE-foot-peg-relocaters-_W0QQcmdZView ItemQQhashZitem2eadfe3609QQitemZ200487613961QQptZM otorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories | ||
| Maxbuell |
I have a set .nice piece. only work on late model M2 think 2000-2002. .Not sure if they will work with the banke set-up or not (i would think not). | ||
| Jayvee |
These 'Relocators' (which Banke invented, as far as I know, and used to sell) are sort of a half-way measure between stock, and the full rearsets. The full rearsets have a bracket that holds the pegs, and nothing goes in the normal peg hole/swingarm pivot hole. There would be no use of running this AND the rearsets. The normal BANKE shifter and brake should work with these, as they closely copy the original Banke Relocators, which I have. | ||
| Devdawg |
I'm running a set on my '99 M2 and like them. They will move your foot back away for the shifter a little if you have the updated setup (won't with the half moon), but not enough to use the X1 shifter. You'll also have to play with the rear brake master cylinder adjuster to realign the brake pedal to the new peg location. I like the position and don't plan on going back anytime soon. (Message edited by devdawg on July 29, 2010) | ||
| Shupe |
Devdawg, So, just to be clear, this gives more room between the peg and shifter? Man, that would be cool. I was in an accident in Jan., broke my ankle, and it's tough shifting my M2 now with my limited up and down ankle range. Plus my left foot is still swollen so I had to buy a pair of size 12 1/2 boots, making it tough to get my toe under to upshift. | ||
| Devdawg |
Shupe, Yes...your shifter peg will be about an inch further away from your heel. You won't have to slide you foot forward to shift but the peg is definitely a little further down your foot. | ||
| Redefine420 |
Why wouldn't they work for a 97 M2? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Chris Ask Guell, he got a set but had trouble with it due to the different master cylinder adjustment or something of that nature. I use these on my M2 and really like the additional clearance, I used to drag my toes at steeper lean angles but the relocators help for all but the most extreme angles that the track will provide. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
David, Not sure why you'd try and use these with rearsets unless you are still dragging pegs with rearsets on the bike. Might just want to work on body position a bit though... I really don't think you'd need to use the relocator and rearsets, plus that would shift your pegs out a ways. That's my only complaint of my Banke relocators, makes my foot position a bit wider. | ||
| Redefine420 |
I bought a set, i'll do what i can to make them work. The guy gave me a good deal, I bought a couple other things from him so he gave me free shipping. | ||
| Guell |
problem is with the master cylinder and the pedal. Youll have to grind the stop off the pedal, and then rig a way so the pedal stays stationary, as the 97 brembo system didnt use a threaded rod. Once you take it apart youll understand | ||
| Blackm2 |
Sorry Buggles, I didn't mean to say the rearsets that Banke used to sell that relocated the pegs but just the controls. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Ah. They should work nicely for you, and keep your toes from dragging in steep corners as long as you ride the curves on the balls of your feet (looks like you do that in your profile pic). Cool photo by the way, it's always cool to see the bottom of a bike from that angle. | ||
| Blackm2 |
Thanks, I wish he would have gotten the one a couple weeks ago when I did drag my peg. What all is involved specifically with changing the tail section to the S1 like yours Littlebuggles? | ||
| Guell |
welding in a new subframe. Blackm2, you can also find a 97 m2 tail that just bolts on and have a skinny tail if you want that look | ||
| Blackm2 |
I do like that look, but I also like the shortened solo seat of the S1. I guess I just have to look for an S1 too damn it.  | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Yup, we cut the back of the subframe off, shortened the side rails, then cut them to angle them upward, removed a piece trimmed the back to make it more narrow. Then welded it all back up. Used the tail piece and just tack welded and bent bits until everything lined up properly. It's a bit of a project, but can be done if you can weld or know a decent welder. I think Guell's suggestion is a great option. Course, so is rescuing a S1. I'd also like to have a real S1 too one of these days. |
