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Mr_wizard
Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So I took my bike for it's maden ride yesterday. About 200 miles into it I noticed oil coming out of the primary breather, I thought no big deal I just put all new fluids in it and probly overfilled the primary a little bit. It wasn't very much oil at all just a couple of drops. 400 miles into the ride I was broke down at a gas station and all the engine oil puked out the primary breather. I think I shut it down in time, the oil light never came on but the oil tank is almost empty. I will take off the heads just to make shure I did't score the cycilnder walls. Did I blow a gasket? Has this happend to anyone else? Just wondering where to start. If I had more cash it would be going to Hobans for a whole new motor but I don't have the 5 grand it would cost! YIKES. I would apreciate any input, thanks, Tim
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Snake_oil
Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

sounds like a blown drive side crank seal
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5liter
Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 01:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Crank seal gone bad.
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Preybird1
Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had mine go out on the freeway. same deal as you, oil everywhere. I had installed a little fuel filter in the breather line in hopes of catching the oil before it got on the bike but......no it got all over.

Stupid $7 seal

And 1.4 hours labor and no more problems.

The idiot at the stealership tried to tell me it was because the breather's for the heads had to much pressure and that blew the seal.

B.S.
I told him did you even look at the bike before you came up to me with that lame excuse?

If you notice there is no middle section of the rocker box on the bike, I removed it when i did the XB rocker-box conversion and there are 2 pcv valves with .5" tubing on it. There is no way for pressure to build in the rocker-box.

Then he had a dumb look on his face when i told him that.

Me and the manager had words over this lack of actually diagnosing the problem.
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

One the KILLERS of this SEAL is a TOOOO TIGHT primary chain !!!

PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTMENT Class 101 available on request, just e-mail me ...
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Mr_wizard
Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I took the inspection cover off and the chain is good. I was expecting to have oil run out of the inspection cover but it didn't? How hard is it to replace the seal? I have the manual for the bike. Do i need to pull the clutch?
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Mr_wizard
Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 04:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

35151-74A is what I come up with for a part #. Am I looking at it right? I have the locking tool to take off the sprocket in the primary
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Snowbees
Posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 - 05:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Convert the timing plug hole into a case vent would help with crankcase pressure, thus help to pre-long the life of the sprocket side crankcase seal.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

TIMING PLUG HOLE PVC Class 101 available upon request, just e-mail me ...
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Richsm2
Posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

with all the new owners or stored bikes being put into service it would be nice for someone with all the info to post a sticky, common to many sites.
as for the seal the only time I see the oil tank draining into the crankcase being a blessing is after a long storage period you can lean the bike over to each side for a count of ten or something like that and get some oil on the seals before starting up. I then route the return to a pan , put 2 quarts in the tank and watch for the oil to start aerating then re connect the return line. oil is a beautiful thing.Also I would not get excited yet, check to see if the oil light is working properly, if so then let us assume there was yet oil in the system, the cylinders are oiled by the oil thrown from the rods side clearance.so if there was oil to the lower there SHOULD be oil to the pistons and cyl walls.
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Oldog
Posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mr Wizard,

yes you must remove the clutch and alternator bell, the old seal will be a pain to remove, you need the seal driving tool to install the new one correctly, or Reepicheeps' green tinker toy,
its a bit fiddley but not hard to do at all.
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