| Author | Message | ||
     Turboglh |
Bike is losing charge after driving a few days. Figure charging system, maybe regulator if I'm lucky. Check voltage at battery while running, 12.5v, so not charging at all. Check power to reg, ground at reg base and do reg bleed check, all good. Checked stator resistance and for stator grounding. (resistance was 0.5ohm and ground check was good) Check a/c output and it showed 0v. Double and triple check, all the same Seems to say a bad alternator, but I find it hard to believe that it's so dead that I get nothing out of it. Before I go through the trouble of buying an alt, making a disabling tool to remove the crank nut, and borrowing a compressor for the clutch, what are my chances that I have a broken wire between the grommet and the #46 plug (stator to VR) vs a completely dead alt? (Message edited by TurboGLH on April 02, 2010) | ||
| Jim2 |
What kind of trans fluid are you running? Search here on BadWeb and you'll hear that some trans specific fluids have an additive that eats away at the coating on bushings and/or stator ultimately leading to failure of the stator. If you are using one of those know harmful trans fluids than the odds are it's your stator. | ||
| Bartimus |
If your seeing resistance of 0 ohms, that's a dead short, buddy. You should be seeing some kind of resistance pin to pin. It does shound like your stator is shot. | ||
| Turboglh |
I can't say what was in there when I bought the bike, so it's impossible to say if that might be the cause. But that at least gives me a direction. I'm probably gonna change both the stator and rotor to be sure. (Message edited by TurboGLH on April 02, 2010) | ||
| Turboglh |
@bartimus. Sorry, mistake on my part. It was actually open circuit when checking for stator grounding and 0.5ohm across the two stator wires. That 0.5 is actually out of range according to the service manual (0.2-0.4) but it seemed close enough for government work. (Message edited by TurboGLH on April 02, 2010) |
