G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through April 03, 2010 » Custom header specs? « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 02:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

cant find a header for my s1 so next week im dropping it off at a friends shop to have a custom one-off made...

he doesnt know what specs to build it, and neither do i.

should i make the primaries larger? longer? what about the collector? and im probably going to run a new muffler as my v&h is pretty much at its last leg.

not sure what to do about the muffler... im thinking some kind of bullet style / glass pack muffler? any suggestions?

im thinking about also using a really short stainless flex, and tie the muffler and header together with a vband, or slip joints with springs...

help?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Phelan
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 03:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Keep the headers the primaries 1 7/8", make them wrap around the front of the bike before entering a 2.5" collector, and keep the primaries equal length. Next, I would either put a reverse cone megaphone or a Supertrapp on it for a muffler. The megaphone makes the best power but it pushes it further up in the powerband. The Supertrapp is tuneable to help keep the powerband in the 2500-5000 rpm range. Second, the spring loaded slip joints are a good idea- one on each primary, about 1' out from the exhaust port. I wouldn't add a flexjoint though. Besides, it's not needed, especially with the spring clips. Also, if you build it out of stainless, you can polish it up and not have to put a finish on it. As far as shape, just make sure it clears the frame and whichever air cleaner you plan on using, and go wild with the rest. I personally think the Kooks pipe looks sickest, but it has clearance issues with heavy right-hand cornering, which is another thing to consider. Finally, BUILD TWO! I want one dangit! Lol
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Phelan
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 03:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

BTW, longer primaries are good. That's why I recommended putting the collector after the second 90* turn like the race headers.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Puddlepirate
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 08:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Wow, quite the information, Ross! Forgive my ignorance, but I thought the stock tuber headers were 1.5" like the XB9s?

Also, 304 stainless is regarded by many as the way to go. Stainless Works has it for $10.85 per foot, which is by far the cheapest I found it anywhere when I was looking, even with shipping included. The only problem is that it is a lot more expensive than your standard aluminized tubing (around $2.50 a foot at NAPA). If you bend the stainless wrong it is almost impossible to bend it back straight to have another go at it. What I would recommend is pick up some of the cheap stuff at NAPA for about $20 to make sure you can get the bends where you want them, and then make it from the .065 wall 304.

(Message edited by puddlepirate on March 26, 2010)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jramsey
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Tuber head pipes measure 1-3/4".
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Spiderman
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Looks like you have stage three XB heads no?

If so I would use 1-3/4 or 1-5/8 to a 2 or 2.5 inch collector.

As for muffler if you could get your hands on a Old Buell race muffler perfect.

I would make this if I were you!



That pipe gave my bike tons more HP and tourqe than a force or a stock header and supertrap...

I can even let you borrow it for pattern making if you like...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Phelan
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My bad, I thought the headers were 1 7/8".
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 04:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Phelan - "about 1" from the exhaust port" do you mean coming out of the head i should have a slip joint, or 1" before/after the collector?

spiderman - i AM using the stg3 XB heads, so should i go up a size on the primaries?

where can i find these supertrap and megaphone mufflers in 2.5"?

oh, and i was planning on making 2 ; ) more if there is serious interest. down side is turnaround was estimated at 2 weeks
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

spiderman - how is your setup braced?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Phelan
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ricky, keep in mind one apostraphe is a foot mark, or 12". I shoulda specified better, about 12" from where the primaries start, at the exhaust port. Look at Tutte's new header in the "German style Shwingarm for my X1" thread as an example. A Jegs style exhaust clamp at the slip of the muffler onto the collector would be a good idea as well.

You can get the megaphones here:
http://www.coneeng.com/
This is also where Force gets their megaphones. Keep in mind that a reverse cone megaphone is actually two cones put together.


I don't have a tape measure on me so I'm not 100% exact, but the Force megaphone is roughly a 14" long megaphone with 2.5" inlet, 4" outlet, with a reverse cone that is roughly 1.5" long, with a 4" inlet and 3" outlet. I'm using my hand as an index, because from the lower part of my palm to the tip of my index finger is almost exactly 8".

A supertrapp is basically a megaphone with a baffle and a tuneable outlet, adjustible by number of discs in the spark arrest. Make sure you use the flat endcap , not an open cap, or the discs will be irrelevant. It is okay though to have a 3/8" hole drilled in the center of the cap so you can use an AFR meter on the dyno. I had a White Bros exhaust (very similar to a supertrapp, but with elliptical discs instead of circular) on my XL1200S, and had to have the hole drilled so that Dan and Aaron could put the AFR meter up my pipe when tuning it on the dyno. You can find Supertrapp mufflers in all shapes and sizes on eBay and elsewhere. I would recommend one about 16-20" long, 2.5" inlet, 4" outlet, and at least 24 discs so you can tune it as needed.

As far as the header, turnaround is no biggie. Just lemme know the cost. Also, I would only need the header as I may have different plans than you for a muffler. I plan on using a megaphone, but would rather it not be included to keep costs down. I can buy it later when I'm ready to install the exhaust.

(Message edited by Phelan on March 26, 2010)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Spiderman
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It is just held by the heads and a mount at the Y. There was a mount on the rear but that broke and I never replaced it with no issue...

I would keep the header the stock size or a 1/8 inch smaller.

If you decrease the area you increase the velocity. Think of putting your thumb over a garden house.
As long as you have a large collector you will increase the speed of which your exhaust gas exits the bike...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Phelan
Posted on Friday, March 26, 2010 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Btw Ricky, PM or Facebook me with your number. I had it once before, but lost it somehow. I have an idea that may work out well for both of us.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Andymnelson
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

They are not hard to come by used...here's one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exhaust-header-for- Buell-S1_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335b9de2c0QQit emZ220580405952QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessor ies#ht_485wt_1480
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration