| Author | Message | ||
     Nallac |
My 00 X1 cut out on me on the way home today, it did the same thing about 2months ago.Can hear fuel pump cycle and will crank over fine just doesn't fire?. First time it did it i gave up trying to start it after about a hour(was late for Graveyard shift) started first pop in the morning. Second time it started after about 3 minutes on the side of the road(the same as today?) Third time it started before it had came to a stop?. Its got me buggered, i tested all i could the first time and came up with no positive fault leads?. What do the wise old(and not so old (or wise))heads say/think where the problem could lay?. P.S I couldn't check for spark any of the times stranded on the side of the road as i had no tools. Oh and i pulled up a code 24 using jumper cable but (i think) it was a old code. | ||
| Snowbees |
had a similar problem with my x1 recently, it would cut out while riding. Toggled the ignition, it would start then run for a bit then do it again. No error codes showing. turns out it was the bank angle sensor fault. Disabled it in the ecm with ecm spy. problem solved. | ||
| Nallac |
Snowbees is there any way of testing the BAS?, or bypassing manually. The strange thing is if you toggle the run switch the fuel pump primes but still no go.. Its like something is heating up and cuting out but its not consistant, happened any where between 2miles and 100miles........ (Message edited by nallac on March 08, 2010) | ||
| Purpony |
i had a loose plug on my kickstand switch... i would ride along and the bike would just die. Ended up pushing it home a couple times. Ended up when it would not start, with the key on, i would reach back and under and shack the plug and the fuel pump would cycle on and off. I ended up cutting the plug out, and wrapping the 2 wires together. Bike has never run better! good luck | ||
| Hootowl |
+1 on the kickstand cutout switch. You should look there first. | ||
| Sloppy |
I've had two ignition switches go out on me... but I've also heard of the kick stand switch as well. Remove the ignition switch and see if it's burned in the back where the wires terminate - that's the first sign that there's a problem. | ||
| Nallac |
Cheers guys, I'll bypass the kickstand switch,(I thought it'd cut the bike out and not crank over at all if it faulted?) Sloppy,I'll look at the ignition switch as well. | ||
| Purpony |
if the switch itself is bad, then you are correct, the bike will not even turn over. If the inline plug is loose it will make the bike run like crap and die by cutting power to the fuel pump.... My switch first died on me so i removed it but left the inline plug intact j ust incase i decided to put a new switch in. Just cut the wires from the switch and jumped them together. Rode the bike all summer. Next summer is when i started having the problem with the loose inline plug. I just cut the entire plug out and soldered those wires together and all has been great. | ||
| Nallac |
Purpony, i just finished doing the same as you, cut wires and spliced together leaving the plug in place,had to strip the wires quite a way back as there was alot of oxidation.Might have to take battery out and flick the plug all together. From your explanation of it, it sounds like the KS switch isn't the fault, as when the bike has cut out the fuel pump relays click and the pump still primes?. | ||
| Snowbees |
sorry its taken a day to get back to you Nallac, dont think there is a test for the bank sensor unit itself, you test the wiring up to it, see 'error code 44 test' in the fuel system section of the workshop manual. There should be 11-13 volts between the grey and black wire on the plug, and 4-6volts between the green/grey and black wires, if voltages are ok then its a duff sensor. The wires can be jumped to bypass sensor but i dont know which ones, much easier to turn off in the ecm. You have bypassed the side stand switch, have you done the same with the clutch switch | ||
| Nallac |
Thanks Snowbees,theres no real hurry to reply as the bike behaved itself today (for how long is any ones guess). Its been over two months since it did it last time...... I haven't done the Clutch switch yet. Just thinking about doing one thing at a time, to hopefully find/isolate the problem.. if it happens again it'll be next on the list. I think its about time i got myself ECM spy.. | ||
| Snowbees |
It does sound like the bank sensor on it way out (intermittent fault). Ecm spy is well worth getting even if its just for TPS resets, reading error codes etc. best of luck Nallac | ||
| Nallac |
well she cut out again on the way to work last night........cranked over fine but no fire? Took about 10mins and it fired up and ran fine.Last/only thing i touched was swapping the two relays around under seat,fired up straight away then?. Gonna buy a couple of new ones and replace them. Checked for codes when i got home from work this morning,none present.Turned BAS off while i was in there. Any one else with any ideas?. | ||
| Kalali |
Strangely enough my X1 showed the same exact symptom last year and it cut out on me while doing 75 mph on highway. Fortunately I was in the slow lane (gotta love New Jersey drivers) and pulled right to the shoulder. Fired up and rode it a few more miles and it died again. Had it towed home and after some fiddling around it turned out to be my clutch safety switch. I still don't quite understand how the safety switch could have caused that condition but had I known the "paper clip in the switch" trick I could have ridden it home. Worth checking. | ||
| Jramsey |
Check for a bad ground. Check the one that goes from the swing arm block to the battery box bottom. My X1 got a trailer ride home 4 weeks ago. It cut in and out 3 times and the gauges went wonky at the same time and then died. No tools, trailer ride home, then checked the grounds and a 1/2" wrench fixed it. | ||
| Nallac |
I bipassed the clutch and kickstand switch the last time it played up on me and took all the earths off and filed em up. | ||
| Jim2 |
Nallac, you might be cured by getting the new relays. It'll cost you only $18. It cured my problem of sudden stop, and random failure to turn over followed by a normal start after hitting the starter button a few times. I could hear them click so I thought they were good. I've had about 1000 miles since replacing without a single problem were before I had problems ever other day. Mine is a '00 M2. Auto Parts store RELAY - Duralast Part#19389, $8.99 each | ||
| Kyrocket |
I just had a problem with not getting spark and it turned out to be the speed sensor. Mine just up and died with no warning, you may try unplugging it and see what happens. By the way, Jim2 or anyone know if the early M2 and X1's share the same relay. I'd like to replace mine and will use the above part number if they match. | ||
| Jim2 |
Don't know for sure but these are basic Automotive 12V relays. As long as the package pins are the same width and layout you should be Ok. In other words if it plugs into the relay block you should be ok. The FSM gives the schematic diagram which I believe is also on the cover of the relays. That should eliminate doubt. | ||
| Nallac |
i sure hope so Jim2. Would be good to find a fix and a cheap one at that. | ||
| Blake |
"it turned out to be the speed sensor" You mean the cam position sensor? Speedometer sensor has nothing to do with spark. | ||
| Kyrocket |
That's what I figured too BUT turns out, as someone pointed out to me last week, if the speedo sensor goes out it acts as a kill switch. Don't ask me how, I tried for weeks to get spark, unplugged the speedo sensor and it fired up with a couple of tries. | ||
| Oldog |
Krock - Blake, the +5v for the CPS also is fed to the speed sensor. if you loose the speed sensor, the cam - position also looses 5v and shuts the engine off. | ||
| Blake |
I can see that being the case if the speed sensor is shorted out, but not otherwise. I guess that is what is happening when the sensors fail? Good to know. Thanks. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
All this is making me think a simple breaker points ignition and a carb might be a lot more reliable, or at least easily fixed, even if it would give up a bit of performance. I am beginning to think that, on a 1200 cc street bike that will never see a race track, giving up a bit of power for improved reliability might be a good trade. | ||
| Fasted |
+1 on carbs.........love all my m2s | ||
| Jramsey |
>>All this is making me............. Reminds me taking a crap in a unheated outhouse in 0 degree weather using the pages from a Sears catalog to wipe my ...., yes it gets the job done but modern technology does have its advantages. | ||
| Nallac |
Jramsey..LMAO... | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
No doubt that the modern technology is better, when everything works, but my question is "How much better?". I remember some very potent Sportsters that seemed to get along very well with a carb and a breaker-points ignition. Does anyone actually know how much power is gained (ie HP or Torque)at the expense of complexity? If it is just a few HP, simplicity might have value in certain applications (like a ride to remote locations where reliability trumps all-out power). | ||
| Kyrocket |
I can see Dave's point, I mean if I had known this back in November I'd have simply unplugged the speedo and gone along for the ride but instead had to trailer home and probe every wire and check every sensor on this bike. I am slowly but surely making note of all this in my FSM (lists of every fuel,oil and air filter that will work, plug numbers, cross referenced sensor numbers, etc) and seems now I should have a section called if this happens try this first or look here. "Does anyone actually know how much power is gained (ie HP or Torque)at the expense of complexity? " There's a debate for the decade. My X1 had, per the literature of the time, had 101 hp. That's a very attainable number IMHO with carbs and points depending on the motor work that's done but like I said this could be debated forever. |
