| Author | Message | ||
     Adsva83 |
I tore my bike completely down for powder coat and am starting the process of putting everything back together now. I have a manual but some of the pictures aren't as clear as I thought they would be. Can someone tell me if I have the spacers laid out right in the attached picture, also which side of the wheel is the rotor side? Is the spacer that is on the right side in the picture a press fit on the axle? It is not sliding over the axle like the one on the left does.    | ||
| Mick |
THe long spacer goes on the thread side, it should slide freely. The rotor goes on the side your looking at in the picture. | ||
| Jramsey |
The short spacer goes on the right side when sitting on the bike. If you were to flip the axle 180 in the first pic it would be correct if viewing from the front. Rotor goes on the side shown in the second pic. The third pic. is left side of the wheel. | ||
| 4dwuds |
Sitting on the bike, the little notch in the hub is for the speedo drive, left side. The side with the "kidney bean"slots is the brake side, right side. Speedo drive side gets the long spacer, Axle hole goes on brake side. | ||
| Jramsey |
Adsva83 profile says X1, no speedo drive involved. Would be nice if people included the model they were working on when posting.  | ||
| Sloppy |
The picture in the service manual for my 2000 S3 is WRONG! I would assume that it could be the same for ther Y2000 Buell manuals as well. The bearing spacers should be swapped from the manual. If you look carefully at the manual you'll be able to figure it out. That and the wheel locks up as you tighten and spin it... The only "press fit" items are the bearings. | ||
| Adsva83 |
Yes, X1 is correct sorry I left that out. A lot of this is new to me but I know I don't have a speedo drive like the S1. | ||
| Adsva83 |
I think I have it figured out now, as always thanks for the help. It's the long spacer that is giving me problems. It isn't fitting over the axle and is also a press fit into the bearing, neither of which are correct. It probably only needs about 0.005"-0.007" taken off of it but i'm wondering how it changed shape from the few months sitting in the garage. | ||
| Jramsey |
Any chance you might have stepped on it? Out off round, they are quite thin walled on the bearing end. OEM spacers are usually sloppy on the axle and snug in the bearing. | ||
| Adsva83 |
The spacers were at the wheel shop when i had the bearings removed, so there is the possibility that they aren't "true" anymore. | ||
| Buellistic |
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE AXLE NUT AS YOU WILL CRUSH THE SOFT CENTER SPACER AND CAUSE YOUR WHEEL BEARING TO FAIL ... TORQUE AXLE NUT TO PROPER TORQUE SPECS. !!! THIS IS VERY, VERY IMPORTANT ON THE "BLAST" MODEL ... | ||
| Adsva83 |
Everything will be done according to the torq specs in the manual. Are those specs correct? I know some of the things in the manual don't lead the the best results, i.e. the belt deflection just for an example. Everything will get loc-tite as well. |
