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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through February 27, 2010 » 2000 X1 neutral problem « Previous Next »

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Slayer5690
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I just bought a 2000 x1 lightning and I've enjoyed it very much but it has on problem. when idling it is almost impossible to get it to go into neutral but when i turn it off it pops right in. Can any one help me figure out why?
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Blackm2
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check your primary chain adjustment first. If it still does it, loosen the drive belt. Mine was the same way and as soon as I loosened the drive belt it made it much easier. A lot on here describe that the belt should be "scary loose".
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Spiderman
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Re-align your detent plate as well...
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Hootowl
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

+1 on primary chain adjustment.

Also, I BELIEVE the 2000 and earlier models need an updated chain adjuster shoe (can't remember the year) and there is also a newer detent plate that makes shifting easier. These are all standard sportster parts, and are relatively inexpensive. I think the shoe is $15. Installation requires removal of the primary cover, but that's easy.

Besides, if you haven't opened up your primary yet, you're not really a Buell owner : )
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Hootowl
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

read this:

http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/

It's basically all the updates people discuss on Badweb all jammed into one page.

The hardest update is the rear isolators, but since you have an X1, even that isn't very difficult.
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Joel
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Clutch drag can cause this.

Check the adjustment.

Joel
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Hootowl
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Aye. If your clutch engages right off the bar, it's too tight.
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Jramsey
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If the clutch engages/disengages right off the bar the adjustment is too loose and needs tightened up.
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Slayer5690
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 06:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the tips every one. my weekend will defiantly be busy.

Hootowl and Jramsey. your last post contradict each other I'm just curious which one is the typo.
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Kalali
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"if you haven't opened up your primary yet, you're not really a Buell owner"

Note to self: Take the cover off first thing in the morning.

Sorry could not resist.
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Malott442
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 07:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would go with the easiest route first.

Clutch LEVER adjustment. Make sure it is in spec.

THEN go adjust the clutch internally if needed. This is the step of removing the derby cover and using a flat head screwdriver to adjust the clutch to specification. And yes, the large O-ring is always that big of a pain in the butt to keep in place.

If the clutch is still dragging, then adjust the primary chain using the sight window and the adjusting screw/nut underneath. Do this in neutral..... please.

After that, then I would consider checking primary fluid level. Set it to spec.

None of these steps requires the primary cover to come off fortunately, because that is a lot of crappy bolts and one crappy paper gasket, and if it isn't leaking, then don't mess with it.
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Malott442
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

And btw, if you adjust the clutch internally, you are going to have to play with the external adjustment afterwards.
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Jramsey
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 09:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No typo, just blip the throttle to find neutral till you get a service manual.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Matt, I don't mean to be argumentative but ....
Just for reference, you should do the internal adjustment first (after backing off the cable adjustment a bit), then the external cable adjustment.
It's important to make sure the ball ramp is in proper adjustment first (centered).
That way the lever travel will completely disengage the clutch stack with the least amount of travel.
It's the clutch drag that makes neutral hard to find.

Order of complete clutch check...
Primary chain adjustment.
Clutch ramp adjustment
Clutch cable adjustment.

If you don't do it in this sequence you will chase your tail. Really..

Once you have everything in proper adjustment, the cable tweaks are usually sufficient.

Brad
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Jramsey
Posted on Friday, January 22, 2010 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

+ 1 Brad!
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Slayer5690
Posted on Sunday, February 14, 2010 - 04:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok so Fluid was black and smelt burnt so i changed it but now i found a real problem when i adjust the clutch ramp the clutch drags badly the clutch should fully disengage with a full pull of the lever but it grabs enough to move me. the guy i bought it from said he put a new clutch in it but I'm not so sure when and if he used a stock one. or if he took out the spring plate. is my problem a bad clutch job like i think?
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