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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through February 27, 2010 » Exhaust studd upsizing (update) « Previous Next »

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Preybird1
Posted on Friday, January 15, 2010 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So after having the bike at my friends race shop for 1.5 months. his dad is in a wheelchair and got really sick so i told him don't worry about it. Well he calls me up today and says the broken rear lower exhaust stud is to risky to do on the bike and the head must come off..........So i got the bike back to my shop and me and my brother tore it down and packed it up in 40 minutes, and sent both heads and exhaust headers back for modification.


well we will see if this works or not. CROSS YOUR FINGERS EVERYONE!
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Mmmi_grad
Posted on Friday, January 15, 2010 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

They better work. I think this spring I might install some new studs for the hell of it.
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, January 16, 2010 - 09:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I am also changing the exhaust to the d&d kit i got a couple of months ago. The flange holes on the exhaust header will also be up sized!

Stock studs are 7.5mm according to my micrometer

I am having them up sized to 10mm grade 8 studs that are custom fabricated for this application. And i will have pics to come of the finished results.....so stay tuned!
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Jramsey
Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Oem stock studs are 5/16"/7.94mm, if your going to up size them why not drill or ream the threads out to 5/16" and tap 3/8 x 16 and use automotive exhaust studs which are grade 8 or higher and available at any parts house?
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It'll work fine, so long as nothing stupid happens drilling the hole.

FYI, I am pretty sure the breakage is related to the front exhaust hanger, not the strength of the stud...
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 12:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

BUELLers;

"i" am not saying that "i" will never have a HEAD EXHAUST STUD problem, "BUT" in the 108,822.1 miles as of the last ride THE CURSE OF THE BROKEN EXHAUST STUD has never happened to either of my 1997 S3T heads ...

"PROPER EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION" is not in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL which leads to this problem ...

"MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!"
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Preybird1
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

the heads will be done on Thursday. Then reassembled on the bike. (pics) to come.
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Texastechx1
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

FYI, I am pretty sure the breakage is related to the front exhaust hanger, not the strength of the stud...

this. but he's dead set on doing it. can't wait to see the results.


FYI, due to a roadside repair on a road trip, one of my front exhaust studs is actually a 1/4-20 NON-GRADED bolt with the head cut off. i had some shady shop tap the part of the stud that was broken off in the head and makeshift a new stud. it has been on there for over 3500miles now without breaking or leaks.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Good luck Russ, I hope this one works for you, perhaps the new exhaust system won't stress your new bolts too.

Do the grade eight hold up better to the heating and cooling that takes place on the heads? Just wondering if the heat cycling makes a difference in the original tempering of the hardware?
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Preybird1
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You know mike. it could make a difference. But i have tried 3 different exhaust cans and set ups and many studs later i still have the issue...And i do have an updated y hanger bracket and all the iso's are good.
I tried bullestics way and a few other badwebbers tips and tricks and still an issue!

If this happens again i am thinking is related to the crank, And it's vibrating so much it causing the breakage(s)

I have broken so many of these studs that the extra one's i bought are all over....I find them at work, at home, in my car, in my tool box!

I have broken a stud doing a little wheelie
I have broken a stud going slow
I swear i broke a stud while it was just sitting in the parking lot! LOL JK.
I have broken so many i can hear a tiny exhaust leak like "spidey sense"

I love this dam bike so much or it would be in the scrap heap a year ago.
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Jramsey
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Your last post on the exhaust stud saga reminds me of my first marriage.
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Oh Daym JR! thats Bad...

Russ, bigger studs will help if there is no other root cause, it sure is fishy about having all of the the improved mounts and still breaking the studs,

the realy wild thing is that for the most part the motor and hangers should shake to gether as they are all rigidly mounted
the y mount and the rear mount are rubber on the x1 so the pipe can move just a bit
the z bracket is ok and its bushings?
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Preybird1
Posted on Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

OLDOG
The z bracket broke so i made a beefier one that worked (pretty) good. So this time i got a new z bracket and the new exhaust system. But the bushings i didn't think about them so much as the PO had a different can on the bike before i got it and now that i think of it i have never seen any bushings??? only washers (lock washer's) Wow i need to re-read the FSM this could have been part of the problem along with the fabbed Z bracket being to "fat" which was pushing the can at least 1/4" out of alignment.

I read this post and completely missed the part about bushings until tonight thanks oldog!

Dam i just went to whip out my trusty FSM and realized it was at the shop...... DOH!
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bird, look in the rear engine mount, On my bike there are 2 "rubber" bushings with steel sleeves pressed in to the rear mount
that allow some movement (limited) the washers clamp on the sleeve and trap the bushing, My bike has the "Y" mount as well
I notice that my revised super trapp moves the Y bushings over to one side, I break the rear mount shoe ( made by super trapp) about every 1 to 2 years ( I have another one that I had welded up ) so I have a spare, it makes sense now if you are applying side loads to the system that you are breaking studs, which ones are being snapped, rear? or front?
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Preybird1
Posted on Tuesday, February 09, 2010 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bump To stay alive.....friends taking to long on work!
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