| Author | Message | ||
     Purpony |
I remember a while back reading a post on Badweb about some factory upgrades to the tuber clutch that makes a world of difference. I cant seem to find that again. Anyone know what i am talking about? I had an issue over the summer when i would pull my clutch in to downshift and the bike wont downshift at all... i played with my clutch cable adjustment and it feels better.... but all my friends that ride jap bikes are telling me my clutch when pulled in feels like its bottoming out and doesnt feel right to them..... | ||
| Sloppy |
Clutch adjustment on these bikes require a VERY specific procedure as there are TWO adjustments that need to be made. Please obtain a Factory Service Manual. If you are going to work on your bike then you need to invest in the tools - and the FSM is one of the most important tools to get. As for a "special" clutch, there is none that make a "world" of difference. You can swap the anti-rattle plate for an extra clutch plate / friction surface, but it won't fix a poorly adjusted clutch. First get the clutch adjusted properly then we can talk if you want to remove the anti-rattle plate. Or take it to any Sportster performance shop and they can do it for you. | ||
| Buellistic |
Purpony: E-mail me and the "INFO" is yours ... Plus some that you did not think you needed ... "MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!" | ||
| 4dwuds |
Removing the "grenade" plate is a fairly easy job, also replacing the pressure plate with the one out of a Uly makes for a easier pull but a little more complicated job(need more tools) | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO, a weaker SPRING, diaphragm PN 36792-91 is not the way to unless you want your clutch to slip !!! Go this way, see www.easypullclutch.com !!! "MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU" !!! (Message edited by buellistic on January 11, 2010) | ||
| Kalali |
I had my dealer do the adjustment while I was there for other things. It was probably the best $35 I have spent so far on the bike. It did make a "world" of difference. | ||
| 4dwuds |
Why would a Uly spring make the clutch slip. It works fine in a Uly. Works fine so far in my M2 along with a few other tuber riders who have done the same. | ||
| Buellistic |
4dwuds: It is a IMHO answer ... To me a softer spring means less pressure ... "BUT" if it works for you and those that have done this, there is no problem ... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Don't forget that a misadjusted or maladjusted primary chain can also cause a "no-shift" or "hard-shift" condition.... Set everything to spec first. Look for trouble after that, if the issues still exist after EVERYthing is set properly. And a Buell clutch *won't* feel "right" to someone used to a metric bike. Cable vs hydraulic; twin vs I4; torque vs no-torque...all are major differences in engine/trans/clutch "personality". My 1125CR feels NOTHING like my S2 or S1W, or even my Uly. All are properly adjusted though. They're just different. | ||
| 4dwuds |
Buellistic, I thought the same thing when I first read about it, Lighter spring=less pressure=clutch slip, But I came to the conclusion that if it worked in a Uly then why not my ol underpowered M2, So , Kicking and Screaming, I tore my clutch apart, installed the new goodies, and swore to get even with those responsible if it didn't work and I had to tear it all apart again. 5K miles later and I still Kick and Scream, but not at my clutch.Oh Yea, YMMV.  | ||
| Terrycoxusa |
It's about a 10 minute job, same procedure that cable pull clutches have used for 50 years. Slacken the cable, adjust the nut in the housing, set the cable slack to 1/16", there's nothing tricky about it. The more you drive your bike, the stronger your left forearm will get, the easier to pull. | ||
| Fahren |
see X1 files: http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/marriott/x1/ for great info on the above tips. Also, update to the new style clutch detent plate. The hew design helps avoid false neutrals, helps prevent slipping out of gears. Cheap part to replace with updated one. (also, search Old School for "detent plate" | ||
| Sloppy |
Terry - don't forget about setting the clearance on the clutch engagement ramp / throw out bearing prior to setting the clutch cable clearance... |
