G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through December 17, 2009 » Why is fuel pouring out of the intake? « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 11:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)



ok so i finished my XB head swap... got the bike running tonight. seems like its running rough with lack of power...

i bring it back to the garage and shut if off and i hear a sizzling noise, fuel was pouring out of the intake onto the header

the only thing i changed at all with the carb is i put a vacum nipple on the vac port on the back side of the carb... the nipple that sticks out behind the fuel feed. before there was a line attatched to it that went to nothing...

i thought someone told me to just plug it... maybe that could be the problem?

if not what else could it be?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Dpg
Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 11:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Pull the fuel bowl and check for any debris. I had that happen on my Sportster one time and found a tiny speck of fuel line inside. Since you're in CA I would think that nipple you plugged might need to go somewhere. I can't see it in the picture.

Safe ride,

Gary in Oakland
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richsm2
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 12:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

tap the side of your carb at the float bowl area with the handle of your screwdriver,if this helps( with the fuel valve on), pull the float bowl off to check for a stuck needle by letting the float drop on its own ,if it flows fuel with the float up then check for foreign matter or bad valve. clean needle and port area if stuck and recheck all for freedom of movement before buttoning it up. the plugged nipple was for the vapor return-for the vapor canister we in Ca were honored with. if foreign matter need to determine the source and resolve it.before continuing( ie donot get in a hurry,we are not going anywhere).
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 12:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i pulled the bowl off just now and found that my immulsion tube was loose, so i tightened it backup and made sure the float wasnt sticking and it moves freely... and then made sure the accel pump wasnt sticking and it seemed normal...

put it back together rode it around, runs better i think, but i pulled back into the garage and before i could hit the off switch it died... wouldnt restarted and was pouring fuel again

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richsm2
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just came to me, a bad float will sink opening the valve and just making a mess.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 01:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

how do i keep it from doing that?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Sparky
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 01:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

1) Did you ever turn the carb upside down? If yes, that may have bent the float tang to where the float level is too high now and you may need to check the float level (again).

2) There could be debris in the float needle and seat, in which case one can turn the petcock off and on while the engine is running until the debris passes and the fuel stops overflowing. I've had to do this a few times with my S1, so it works.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 02:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

wonder if i can put the air hose in the fuel feed line and blow the carb out... will that hurt anything?

and what is the proceedure to adjusting the carb float bowl, never done it
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richsm2
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

float is non adjustable- plastic,if leaks just replace. air may blow the whole thing, gaskets etc, I replaced my screws with allen heads after dealing with the phillips heads, if you have not already done this maybe a good time to change gaskets also, indiviual ones can be bought at your hd store.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Psyclown
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Take the float off and put it in a cup of gas. If it doesn't float, its no good. It could have a crack or something.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brinnutz
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Undo what you did and then try.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Midnight_rider
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 02:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

float is adjustable my s2 was pouring fuel found float level was too high. adjustment info in service manual check your voes switch vac.line ?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

what is a voes switch vac line?

im asuming that vac line on the top of the carb that goes to a sensor with an electrical connector on it... what about it?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mmmi_grad
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Technically a carb needle in these Harley carbs should be replaced EVERY YEAR. If you get more than that then your vibes are good and heat isnt messing with you. Why people laugh at what I just said is the real joke. They are that sensitive, the gas and additives that are used all contribute. ymmv
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richsm2
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 01:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well I ran my mouth without consulting the manual,this is my take on the manual assuming you are looking at the carb on the bike.remove carb and lay inlet face down (inlet mouth on the manifold side-airfilter face looking up),remove float chamber and rotate float area( bottom of carb as installed-float chamber mating surface) upward to 15-20 degrees ,measured from the horizonal work suface to the carb inlet mouth.,the needle should seat in this range. depending your mods and idle speed you could draw dropplets at idle or just above if set too high. adjust tab as required to obtain your engagement setting. at 15-20 degrees the portion of the float that remains beyond the float bowl mating surface - from the bottom of the float( as installed on the bike)to that mating surface is .413-.453 inches.( with needle seated)
now this is where I hope someone will come in with a method without removal.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richsm2
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

While proof reading this I recall the time that a bit of dust got under my Norton needle and over a week of vacation I found that the sump could not contain the fuel tank capacity of some 6-7 gallons. It maybe just something slightly unseen .Now to add some additional ref #s:.415 inches is just short of 10.5 mm(10.49),27/64 inches equals .421875 inches, 7/16 inches equals .4375 inches and 29/64 inches equals .453125 inches, .453 inches is just long of 11.5mm(11.51). though the manual diagram shows the measurement for the inlet mouth elevated 15-20 degrees from the work surface , with a swinging protractor placed at the airfilter -bracket mounting surface it looks like the same measurement could be more easily be done.
I seems to be that if to hold the carb by blocking up at these two angles while measuring with the depth end of the caliper set,or having fabbed cardboard gages for both the angles and depth you will see the required adjustment with in the desired ranges, all the while being careful when adjusting the tab only slightly each attempt. I think as Mmmi suggested the changing out the needle would be a good start before this dance with the swinging float.keeping in mind short of a bad float or needle something has been the affected to cause this to begin with .( I have found many times I have been that source.) I did not turn the fuel off as any good british bike rider Knows Must be done-do not touch that valve when hot or the bike will not be the only one hot whiie not running. to for the group to prep for,the best to all- Richard
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration