| Author | Message | ||
     Scdobber |
I've searched the KV on tips to adjust the primary chain with tons of different methods/specs.The SM does not show exact reference points so I'm assuming to use a rivet as the center reference point.I am aware of the procedure to find the tightest point between the sprockets.Here is how I did it cold,so please by all means correct me if I'm wrong in this method.After marking & locating the tightest point which I used for my adjustment point.I pressed down hard on the chain which did not go down much,I used a link rivet as a reference point and put my caliper on that point and then lifted the chain as high as possible with my caliper still "stationary" and measured the same rivet at the highest point and come up with 1/2" cold.I did notice I have more up freeplay than down.The manual is not very clear on adjusting the primary or maybe I'm a dumba** The SM states a max of 1/2" cold but here I've seen 5/8" as well as 3/4"..........Is my method even close | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Charles, I think you are doing this right but I will defer to Buellistic (LaFayette Jenne) for the final word. He has written this up already. Might be in knowledge vault or he could send it to you. I follow his advice on such matters because he has taken the time to analyze things for himself and he has come up with some excellent maintenance practices. Besides, he has well over 100,000 miles on his S3. I'll look to see if I can find his write up. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
I just checked my service notes and notes from prior discussions with Buellistic. The Service Manual says 1/2" but that is too tight. Buellistic advised using 5/8" to 3/4". Per my service notes, I have been using 3/4" at the tight spot. | ||
| Scdobber |
Thanks Dave,I'll go with the 3/4" cold at the tightest.I got confused when I pressed down on the chain and very little slack and up was alot going by the pic in the SV.I guess this is chain sag between the sprockets | ||
| Captainkirk |
FYI: this is best done with the tranny in neutral and rear swingarm on a stand (if you have one available). This takes off the tension and gives a true "neutral" reading both directions. When I mentioned TO THE LETTER I guess I should have also mentioned too loose is better than too tight. The latter will cause noise and difficult shifting, the former...broken cranks, among other things. | ||
| Jayvee |
I been using 3/4", Cold, as Mr. Buellistic suggests. Doesn't matter which reference point one uses, rivet is good, or top or bottom of chain, whatevers easy to see/measure. It did improve the shifing, and neutral-finding, over the Service Manual that I first followed to the letter. (Message edited by jayvee on November 18, 2009) | ||
| Buellistic |
Primary Chain/Drive Belt Adjustment Class 101 available upon request ... Just E-MAIL me so that "i" can get your e-mail address and it is yours !!! "MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!" | ||
| Scdobber |
It was raining today so I had a chance to tinker on the primary chain,my issue is I'm able to push up more than down on the chain (Message edited by scdobber on November 23, 2009) | ||
| Scdobber |
I read in several areas of the KV where a 3/4" wrench was used with the chain in the middle to get 3/4" freeplay,which means the freeplay is measured from the center of the chain 3/8" up and center of chain 3/8" down. Looking at the manual the chain is included in the freeplay with the broken lines at the top of the chain and bottom of chain but if you measure 3/8" top of chain pressed up and 3/8" from bottom of chain pressed down that is a total travel of 1-1/8" including the 3/8" chain plate,now which is correct to get 3/4" freeplay. | ||
| Scdobber |
  Which is correct if either? | ||
| Buellistic |
Are these both measured on the chain tight spot ??? | ||
| Scdobber |
yes both at the tight spot | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
You are measuring movement. I have used the center of a rivet for my reference point to get the 3/4". First I push down and hold my 3/4" wrench with one flat centered on a rivet. Then, without moving the wrench, I push the chain up to see if the center of the same rivet is centered under the opposite flat. If not, I adjust until it is. (Message edited by Dave_02_1200 on November 23, 2009) | ||
| Scdobber |
Like the second pic with a "stationary" wrench or caliper .Push down and push up using the same rivet as a reference point | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Yes, Like the second picture. The reason you can press it up further than down is that the chain sags a bit at rest but, by measuring the total movement, you will get the right 3/4". You had it right. | ||
| Twowheeldream |
Neither of those diagrams are correct..... the second is closer to being right, but you dont want to measure 3/8 up from center and 3/8 down from center, total movement should be 3/8 from full pushed up, to full pushed down, using center of chain as your measuring point. | ||
| Scdobber |
Hmm,the chain is 3/8" at the side plate 3/16" is half splitting it at at center rivet.So if 3/8" is the total movement,that would be 3/16" up and 3/16" down using a stationary measuring reference point.3/8" that you are referring to is the min. cold spec according to the manual if I'm following you. Manual states 3/8" - 1/2" cold.I'm using 3/4" freeplay (Message edited by scdobber on December 04, 2009) | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
This is not that complicated. Just get 3/4" total movement(slack)in the top run of the primary chain about half way between the sprockets. You could use the top of a link, the center of a rivet, or the bottom of a link as a reference point. The result will be the same. | ||
| Buellistic |
For a worry free adjustment "INFO", e-mail me and it is yours ... |
