| Author | Message | ||
     72flh |
Just finished total rebuild of S1 (everything!), runs great and lots of FUN to ride. Question on rear brake. Is this just there to just barely slow you down (front stopper is MAIN brake) or is there a problem with it. Has NEW caliber and pads, rebuilt master cylinder, used rotor that looks GOOD????? | ||
| Rocketman |
Sounds like yours is working perfect. Rocket | ||
| Littlebuggles |
As Rocket said, working as designed. You may be able to lock it up by standing on it. IF you want more out of it (your stock system) at this point replace the rear line with a steel braided one. That's about your last option. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Too much rear brake gets you in trouble. Sounds like it's working fine to me. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Too much alcohol will also get you in trouble, just be careful how much you drink... | ||
| Preybird1 |
If you ride a motorcycle then you should know the front brake is 2/3 of the bikes stopping power. Now the back brake feels like it does nothing but it works just enough. I find that rear brakes that can lock up easily are far more dangerous than a under effective one. I have seen my fair share of people high side due to incorrect braking and easy locking of the rear brakes, Not to mention on soft surface or wet or sandy surfaces it really dangerous. | ||
| Kalali |
I replaced my rear pads with Ferodo HH a few weeks ago and it is noticeably better now. Still not like a Jap bike but much better than stock. Regarding the braided SS line: 1) How difficult is it to switch? 2) Where is the best place (quality and price) to get it? Thanks. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
You can get a line for the M2's and S1's from American Sport Bike, not sure on S3 and X1's, though I thought they are all the same. I found a local hose specialty shop and a cheap line off ebay, they just remade it for me using the fittings and switch from the used part. Cost was around $50. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks. So you just replaced the brake line and were able to reuse the fittings, switch, etc., from the stock set up? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Yup, the hose shop removed the rubber pieces of line and replaced them with matching inner diameter stainless line. If your bike is put away for a while you could obviously use the line from your bike, as long as you trust the shop to do it right. Improvement was not amazing, but useful, I think the cost was worth the improvement. Not sure I would have if I'd paid the $90-100 for the aftermarket line. I put black heatshrink over it before mounting, the bare line seemed abrasive. | ||
| Phelan |
I find that the engine braking more than doubles the rear brake's effectiveness. | ||
| Sloppy |
If anyone has had to perform an emergency stop on a Jap bike knows how much fun a lockup, sideways rear slide can be... Part of the reason the rear brake affect is so minimal because the Buell front brakes are so incredibly strong. Don't forget that Buell's still hit the 10 Best list for braking from a 10+ YEAR OLD DESIGN! Just remember that the next time you think about changing the design... | ||
| 13was13 |
Put in a Lucas-Flex KBA60793 HI plus sensor because the original rubbed on the swingarm. Slightly better grip. Can post picture of the routing, if needed. | ||
| Preybird1 |
I find that the engine braking more than doubles the rear brake's effectiveness. I just had my tranny gears back cut and some other mods and now there is virtually no engine braking now! I like not having the engine braking so much. | ||
| Jramsey |
What does back cutting of the gears have to do engine braking? Nothing | ||
| Phelan |
I have heard Of people putting one-way valves on their breather lines to significantly reduce braking, but I dunno how much back-cut gears would change it, if any, as Jramsey mentioned. I think how you handle that new clutch has a lot more to do with it. | ||
| Jayvee |
I like having a back brake that 'works'. If you want one, I would highly recommend the 2-piston Brembo kit. The 4-piston Performance Machine is a bit too much. The Brembo and billet mount is lighter, in addition to providing a 'real' rear brake. Easily worth it, IMHO. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
If anyone has had to perform an emergency stop on a Jap bike knows how much fun a lockup, sideways rear slide can be... In response to Sloppy's full post, I've been fortunate to have the benefit of LOTS of practice braking. When I taught the MSF course I frequently had the opportunity to demonstrate the maximum braking drill, you learn what the edge of traction feels like. Learn to modulate your own brakes an you won't need the manufacturer to do it for their own liability reasons. Take the Experienced Rider Course and not only will you get to practice this skill on your own bike, but learn advanced cornering and slow speed maneuvering skills as well. Plus the survivor and planning mindset you may learn there will be invaluable! I'm not trying to be boastful or cocky, but shouldn't we know how to effectively brake to our bikes best ability? If adding 9% more power to your brakes puts you 1% over max braking, you learn that .01 you and can stop in a shorter distance because of it. In an emergency that level of familiarity your bike will make the difference between crashing, or just pulling over to let your heart recover. I'll try the gold pads next time I replace the rear brakes. | ||
| Phelan |
Yeah but where can you find it? I've been wanting a 2 piston rear for a while. I thought about having a custom bracket made for a Jay Brake 2 caliper, cuz I like shiney stuff. | ||
| Sloppy |
LB - try that at 50 mph, at night, and a van without any lights pulls out in front of you... if I didn't already take a class then I'd likely be DOA... I've taken all the MSF courses and multiple track day classes. I was also invited to be an MSF instructor!  MSF courses are great and I recommend them to everyone, but they are "staged" demonstrations. Anywho - the point was, Buells have great brakes and, IMHO, I wounldn't mess with them. The rider could use more improvement than Buells can when it comes to braking.  | ||
| Skntpig |
I roadraced jap bikes for a while. I agree about getting the driver mod first. If you can't do a track day, do MSF courses. Practice braking in a clean parking lot. You would be surprised how good our bikes stop with all stock components. Practice, Practice, Practice. If you use the front brakes correctly your rear tire will be skipping across the ground and sometimes an inch in the air. Stronger rear brakes will only lock them up quicker. The only time I use the rear brake is in a slow parking lot or if I'm into a corner too hot and need the rear to step out to tighten the line and keep it on the road. Pads are the best per $ mod. I run Lyndall Golds up front. www.Americansportbike.com I would run Golds in the rear but I don't want them to bite more. I wanted less braking so I bought EBC Black (Hard, High Mileage). Ferodo and EBC make nice HH Sintered pads too. Rotors would be next. I run the Braking waves front and back. I also like the EBC rotors. Lines will help the feel but not really any more braking power. I have a Brembo Radial master cylinder on he front. Great progressive feel but pricey. I enjoy the difference but a new rider couldn't tell. Not trying to toot my horn but I would invite a new rider to switch bikes and I bet I could stop quicker on their stocker. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
"Anywho - the point was, Buells have great brakes and, IMHO, I wounldn't mess with them. The rider could use more improvement than Buells can when it comes to braking." I agree. "Practice, Practice, Practice." I also agree. Brakes are just another part of our ownership experience we sometimes choose to explore. |
