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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through November 19, 2009 » Rear rotor won't budge « Previous Next »

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Adsva83
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've been trying to get the rear rotor off of my wheel on the X1 and the bolts absolutely will not budge. I've stripped one bolt and snapped two hex sockets off in them. What's next, should I just drill them out? I'm frustrated enough with it that I have thought about just buying a new rear rim.
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Adsva83
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 11:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Those bolts aren't reverse threaded are they? I'm guessing no since they are not on a rotating shaft, but that's my only guess as to why they won't move.
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Onebadx1
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've had probs in the past with the same issue.
I took heat to them them used a manual impact driver.
I also stripped mine. I ended up using a sharp center punch on the flat part of the bolt and working it out that way. I have also went with the next size bigger hex and pounded the crap out of it to force it in the stripped hole. With heat...I got mine out.
If you do end up drilling, you could always re tap. If you don't have the tools, bring the rim to a machine shop. Still cheaper than buying a new rim.
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Onebadx1
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

They are not LH thread.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Use a HAMMER(H-D Tool) and a PUNCH ...

Give the SCREW a couple of good raps ...

"BUT" not where it will close up the allen wrench hole ...
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Also, don't be afraid to shock it *tighter* to try and break it loose.

Movement is movement, and if you're pushing it to go tight, you won't round off the tool part of the head in the direction you need it to go in.

+50 on heat.
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Sportyeric
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If yours are the same as mine, you can get penetrating oil in from the other side of the wheel. (The hole goes all the way through.) I used most of a can and left it sit for a week.
I've got an beaten up old electric impact driver that has almost no torque but I can apply it for a long period until it just annoys a bolt to loosen.
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Adsva83
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Can I expect the same thing on the front wheel and rotor? Those are torx screws and my guess is if it's the same, those will strip easier than the hex bolts do.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When "i" remove my rotors, the SCREWS go back in the with "TORQUE'ING COMPOUND" on the threads !!!

(Message edited by buellistic on November 07, 2009)
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Onebadx1
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hate to tell ya.... Mine front sucked way more than the rear. Maybe....?
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Sparky
Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

These bolts are installed with RED Loctite, so heat from a propane torch must be applied to the bolts before attempting to remove them.
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