| Author | Message | ||
     Buellisticx1 |
Hey guys, My stock clutch started slipping under hard acceleration after the motor was rebuild with 1250 kit, Hurricane forged pistons 10.5:1 and porting Heads stage 1 from NRHS. The clutch has around 20000 miles on it now. I think my clutch plates are fried), so I think is time to replace it. Anyway, prior to replacement I'm going to check the adjustment on the clutch and see if it improves. I prefer to do stuff myself. I do almost all my own work, but I have never had this apart before, so this is the first time I have to replace it so I have a few questions about: - Do I need to remove adjusting Screw assembly and the clutch nut or just the adjusting screw in order to fitting Clutch Compression Tool in?..... - The friction plates must be soaked in oil before installation?..... - What parts do I need to upgrade?... - Anything else I should be aware of?.... - What Clutch kit do you recommend me?. Any of recommendation?, thinking about replacing of my stock clutch with the Barnett's 9/8 Hi Performance Clutch Kit & Hi Perf Clutch Spring.... I read a guy with very bad experience with Energy One Extra Plate kit for Sportster/Buell. I have no idea how difficult it is to replace or how much time is involved. I just want to make sure I get all the right info. Any hints or tips would be gratefully appreciated!. | ||
| Garrett2 |
have energy one on my dragbike (s3) - I LOVE IT. wasnt too hard to do clutch soaked the plates in oil no other parts will need to be replaced. i did mine about 2.5 years ago and once i got everything lined up i've not had a single problem since. and that was well over 200+ passes ago | ||
| Buellistic |
Have 108,822.1 miles on my OEM CLUTCH as of the last ride ... "PRODUCT IMPROVED" the OEM Clutch early on by replacing the SPRING PLATE(aka grenade plate) PN 37977-90 ... This makes the OEM Clutch a RACING CLUTCH(when you buy a aftermarket RACING clutch it has no SPRING PLATE) !!! | ||
| Rocketman |
Hi Lafayette. By spring plate do you mean the damping type plate in the middle of the pack, or the spring plate itself? As I remember us discussing years ago, junk the centre weird thingy plate and replace it with an extra couple of friction and steel plates, and use a high performance spring (pressure) plate like the Barnett one. I went through many different Kevlar type set-ups years ago. 100+ RWHP, drag racing a couple of seasons, and the odd few track days, and the Kevlar plates frequently failed. I know now it was running them in synthetic tranny fluid that failed them. So maybe Kevlar is great, without synthetic fluids. What I found out the hard way is stock plates work great with the additional plate modification and a Barnett extra strong spring plate running mineral tranny fluid. No problems these past five years. The one draw back is the clutch lever action is a tad heavier with the extra strong spring plate. But I took care of that with ISR adjustable lever set-up. Once upon a time stock plates use to be reasonably priced in comparison to the expensive Kevlar kits. Not sure how it is these days but my last experience price wise was stock plates were getting pricey and not available separately (maybe UK only?) and only sold as complete kits, and the Kevlar kits were coming down in price. Rocket | ||
| Fast1075 |
Rocketman brought up a very important point...some synthetic lubricants are very poor choices for a wet clutch. I have had very good results with Energy One clutches...they caution you to not use some of the common synthetic racing lubes. We run a wet slider clutch in an import dragbike with around 250hp with little in the way of clutch problems using Mobile 1 5w-30 (import, not Buell or Harley) I have had good results with Mobil 1, both the "V-Twin" and regular 15-50 in the trans of my Buells. | ||
| Buellistic |
Rocketman: It would be nice if everyone would get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK ... When "i" speck, it is FACTORY PART NAME and PART NUMBER so everyone is on the SAME PAGE ... The SPRING PLATE(aka grenade plate) PN 37977-90 purpose is for making a smother releasing clutch which is in the middle of the clutch pack ... It has a HIGH wear factor and only lasts about 50K miles and takes some of the clutch parts with it when it goes bad ... After 2001 SPORTSTERS no longer had this PLATE from the factory, the BLAST and XB clutches never had it ... To get rid of the SPRING PLATE(aka grenade plate) you have to replace it with one FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 and two STEEL PLATES PN 37913-90 ... It then becomes a RACING CLUTCH as sold by the aftermarket suppliers ... "i" am only into doing "PRODUCT IMPROVEMENTS" to see how long "i" can make my engine last ... Getting back to CLUTCH'es, IMHO the OEM clutch is a STRONG CLUTCH ... Keep in mind that "i" only talk about OEM parts ... If you know you have good clutch plates and the clutch slips, then IMHO you need to go to a "STRONGER" SPRING,diaphragm PN 36792-91 ... And you said you found this out the hard way which proves my point about OEM PARTS ... IMHO, if "i" wanted to be "RACE'IE" "i" would run FORD TYPE "F" auto transmission fluid in my transmission/clutch ... For an easier pulling clutch, check out www.easypullclutch.com ... If you want any of my OPINIONATED OPINIONS feel free to ask ... "MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!" "HARLEY-DAVIDSON Motor Company, making MECHANICS and PARTS MEN out of BUELL Riders since THURSDAY 15 OCTOBER 2009 !!!" | ||
| Buellisticx1 |
Hi Lafayette, Good to hear from you again. I hope your doing well. BTW, How long do a stock clutch normally last?.(with a non-aggressive riding, no wheelies nor Burnout etc...of course!). Just wondering if because of my new engine setup(+HP and torque) could be the culprit. Could this be the main problem of my clutch slips?....because my stock clutch has around 20000 miles on it now along with Spring Diaphragm P/N 36792-91 and before the engine was rebuild the Clutch didn't slips at all. And this has been the case....Bike has ran fine till this point...... I'm not sure if the OEM Clutch plates will be strong enough and works properly and whether they will be worth for my new engine with a solid increasing of power(1250 kit and porting heads) In any case the stock clutch is fairly pricey in comparison to the Racing Clutch suppliers, such as, Energy One/ Barnett's. CLUTCH OEM PARTS: - Each friction plate P/N 37911-90=$23.95 X 9 comes to $215.55. - Each steel plate P/N 37913-90= $10 X 8 comes to $80. - Clutch Spring Diaphragm P/N 36792-91 comes to $31. For a grand total of $326.55 The Energy One Clutch Extra Plate Kit w/spring and Compression Tool Combo, it works out less expensive. It also includes the Clutch Compression Tool and a 15% stronger diaphragm spring, all parts just for $160,(Saved $166.55 and it also includes Clutch Compression Tool!)  But if you say it's worth and it works properly, I will install the OEM plates it might be worth the price. Thanks to all who responded and added their suggestions. It is much appreciated. Regards. | ||
| Garrett2 |
energy one clutches rule. the end. | ||
| Rocketman |
The stock clutch with the mods described above is plenty good for the kind of power you'll achieve. But if it's pricey these days I'd take the recommendations I'm hearing here for these Energy clutches. That's a stonking price, and I'm in Yorkshire, lol!!! Rocket | ||
| Buellistic |
Buellisticx1: With the SPRING PLATE in it, about 50K miles ... With the SPRING PLATE "REMOVED" as in "PRODUCT IMPROVED" , to-date on my clutch has 108,822.1 miles as of the last ride ... With more power you will need to increase the SPRING,diaphragm "PRESSURE"(RIVERA makes three levels)... "i" bought the strongest, "BUT" have never put it in ... "MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!" "HARLEY-DAVIDSON Motor Company, making MECHANICS and PARTS MEN out of BUELL Riders since THURSDAY 15 OCTOBER 2009 !!!" | ||
| Guell |
Id do the energy one clutch kit, that price is unbeatable, ill be doing mine this winter. | ||
| Preybird1 |
my factory clutch was slipping after my 1250 kit also and the clutch had only 9,000 miles on it. I went with a barnette clutch kit and like it so far. | ||
| Sloppy |
When you do the spring plate replacement upgrade then you should replace ALL the friction plates (and at least CHECK your steel plates). Otherwise you may get a "squeal" sound from your clutch during engagement. Also there is less of an "engagement" feel for your clutch so it does grab more quickly when you accelerate from a stop. | ||
| Buellistic |
Have an OEM "CLUTCH" that SLIPS ??? Already removed the SPRING PLATE and up-dated ... You have not rune'ed the FRICTION PLATES yet by running the wrong fluid in the Transmission/Clutch ??? Put in a STRONGER "RIVERA PRIMO" Diaphragm Clutch Spring(www.primobeltdrives.com) ... Part Number PC-011-M The medium strength spring for most street performance applications with horse power to approximately 110 HP ,,,Fairly easy on clutch hand ... Part Number PC-011-C For Competition use ONLY, very heavy handed ... Not for WIMP hand/wrists !!! | ||
| Yo_barry |
While you have the side cover off, you should replace the primary chain tension shoe and sealing nut. The replacement tension shoe is much "beefer" than the original 1999 unit. Barry | ||
| Buellistic |
If your PRIMARY CHAIN has worn into the plastic of the chain adjuster, it means your are loosing HORSE POWER because you are adjusting your primary chain "TOO TIGHT" !!! 3/4 inch on the chain tight spot is the correct adjustment(the FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS are "WRONG") ... (Message edited by buellistic on November 10, 2009) | ||
| Ebutch |
My S2T bought new. Today 125,000 miles + . Change all oils Synthetic every 6 thou. 99 S3 70,000 same stock clutches not touched with some adj-ing ride full thoutill.No problems,no slippage!S3 bought with 14,000 miles on it.I even used Red-Line high impact till recently.  | ||
| Buellisticx1 |
Buellistic: Yes, I Have still an OEM "CLUTCH" that SLIPS.....and I have not up-dated the SPRING PLATE yet, and have still it sitting in the clutch. I have always used formula + fluid in the Tranny and just done the change, My primary chain is adjusted properly according to espec of service manual. (cold 3/8-1/2 inch, hot 1/4-3/8 inch)is this wrong?..... I adjusted the clutch screw slightly so it do help a bit and now it just slips a tad under hard acceleration. Maybe It was out of adjustment. I hope it lasts..... I already up-dated the primary chain tension shoe a few years ago when it broke Thanks everybody, your input is PRICELESS. |
