| Author | Message | ||
     Stevegula |
I'm in the process of going from a formerly working bike to a pile of spare parts. :-| I removed the fuel tank to remove old fuel (~1.5 years old). Put fresh fuel in and replaced the plugs. I also accidentally broke off the vent valve on the gas cap. (self high five) Anyway, bike won't turn over. Plugs are sparking but I suspect lack of fuel delivery. I'm not mechanically inclined enough to know how to test fuel pressure but I think that is the issue. Any input? | ||
| 5liter |
did you plug the fuel pump electrical connection back in? I know, dumb question but you never know. | ||
| Stevegula |
No question is too dumb when it comes to me working on a motorcycle. I did indeed plug the harness back together and reconnected the fuel line to fuel the filter. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Filter? Injectors? ECM? New plugs? | ||
| Buelltours |
doesn't turn over? How's your battery? Do you hear the fuel pump building pressure after you switch on the ignition in Neutral and flip the kill switch? The pumps were oftentimes faulty. Do a search here in the forum for more info. | ||
| 5liter |
Start relay? Ignition relay? (Message edited by 5liter on October 24, 2009) | ||
| Stevegula |
Crap. I'm sorry, it turns over but it doesn't crank. There is no combustion. | ||
| Stevegula |
Oh, maybe that's it. Pump isn't pressurizing when I turn on the ignition. Any steps I can take to see if it's the wiring and not the pump? | ||
| Texastechx1 |
Crap. I'm sorry, it turns over but it doesn't fire. FIXED. | ||
| Oldog |
Steve 1. check the electrical connector under the tank (4 place comes out next to the fuel line)[ you had to take this loose to remove the tank 2.power on the bike listen for the pump in the first 4 seconds ( Check engien light on ) it is audible on an X1 3. to check the fuel pressure, you need the gauge set ( advanced or auto zone have these for rent about 45$ to buy) 3a. remove the schrader valve cover on the fuel outlet on the tank ( on the hose fitting ) 3b. purge the air from the gauge (try to start motor) you should see pressure being developed IIRC 45 psi or there abouts is ok 4. consider that the filter and the injectors may be clogged up with goop, IF you have pressure, try using ECM spy and test the injectors ( turn them on ) and try to put some gas through them to help clean them out. | ||
| Stevegula |
1 - It's connected. I checked both ends, everything seems secure inside the plugs. 2 - No audible pump priming noise. 3+4 - stopped when I realized the pump wasn't priming. | ||
| Kalali |
Did you say you checked the fuses and the relays? | ||
| Sloppy |
Do you have spark? Pull a plug, ground it to the frame and turn it over. Do you have fuel pressure? Put a screw on pressure gauge on the schrader valve and turn the ignition switch on (but not need to start). | ||
| Stevegula |
According to the checkengine light flash code, I am throwing a TPS error. I unplugged this at one point but never removed the sensor itself, so I am unsure what is happening there. According to my manual I can't reset the error code without a Scanalyzer. I tried supplying just power to the fuel pump by connecting it to the battery but didn't get any life. All of the fuses look fine. I do not know how to test relays. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Sounds like the pump is dead. You can reset the code using ecmspy and the ecmspy cable. AL @ American Sport Bike sells them, OR ebay. There is one there right now! | ||
| Stevegula |
Anyone have a part # on the pump? My local ex-Buell dealership is far from cooperative these days. | ||
| Jramsey |
#P0131.K Kinda pricey new, you might try a want add in the classifieds. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Check and see if it is getting power before you buy a new one. | ||
| 5liter |
Check your ignition relay . Switch the start and ignition relays and see if your pump runs. If it does, you've found the problem. | ||
| Oldog |
Steve, I presume that you re-connected the wiring and the plug is seated. the code will reset after 50 start stop cycles. the pump is under power from the ecm IIRC the ground cycles on and off [ its transistors not relays ] ( the pump actualy cycles while the engine is running ) +2 on the relay swap for testing. can some one with a wiring diagram ( mines not here ) list the connector color codes and or pin numbers for the plug, the pump if healthy draws about 3 amps. Not trying to be insulting just wondering if you connected the hot line only, if you conencted both to the battery and got nothing its likely dead. other wise maybe not. Relays are tested by one of two ways the relay has a coil that must pull a lever in to switch it on or off. test 1 is the coil, connect the coil to a power source a click should be heard when connecting or disconnecting test 2 is testing the "switch" part the buell relays have both normaly open contacts and normaly closed contacts the state (open closed) is at rest ( coil off ) the state changes open closes, closed opens when the coil is powered typicaly the contacts are arranged in groups of 3 a common, NO, NC an Ohm meter or a common "tester" is usefull to check the condition at rest the C / NC should read dead short, power on the coil the C / NO should read dead short, low resistance is good shorts between NO/NC or not changing are indicators of a bad relay  | ||
| Stevegula |
wow. $300 fuel pump. I guess this sucker isn't cranking for a long time. | ||
| Drhacknstine |
There is a ford vehicle that used the same Walbro pump (can't for the life of me remember what is was  (ford truck?? before they went to the unitized pump and gauge?)). I know it was a PITA to separate the buell bracket and mount the ford pump. It's amusing what you can do at a mom and pop parts store on a saturday afternoon, just so we didn't have to haul it home... still working strong 2 years later. None the less, check with the SPONSORS! It can be had cheaper. And a last resort Flea Bay... | ||
| Kyrocket |
It's not what happened to me last week is it? My fuel pump wasn't cycling on and I checked all my leads, connections, fuses, relays, you name it, I checked it. It drove me nuts at work thinking about it. Finally, up under the tank, close to the neck there's a large cluster of wires. Underneath all that cluster there was a small connector that had pulled loose; similar to the one going to the tank. Once pushed together everything was a go. I hope this is all you need to do. | ||
| Stevegula |
I'm going to check the cables one last time and if I can't get it to prime, there's a used one on eBay for $100 and I'll just hope that solves my problem. I appreciate the help everyone. | ||
| Stevegula |
I got another (used) fuel pump. I plugged it in but did not put it in the tank. When I turn on the ignition I can hear the pump do one click but it does not seem to make any effort to pressurize anything. Does this mean I am looking at an ECM issue? I swapped the relays with each other, they both click so I assume they are both functioning properly. | ||
| Stevegula |
the little grey box that mounts to the side of the ECM.. it's like a 3 prong monster relay.. what is that? when I shake it it rattles, as if it's blown on the inside. If it is actually blown, is that something I can get from any HD dealer or Advance Auto? | ||
| Stevegula |
damn. that's not it. it's the turn signal flashing circuit | ||
| Stevegula |
i believe this has turned into a catastrophe. i have everything plugged back in.. but when i click the starter i get smoke off of the negative terminal on the battery. | ||
| Road_thing |
when i click the starter i get smoke off of the negative terminal on the battery. Is the cable tight on the terminal? That sounds like a loose ground cable. rt |
