| Author | Message | ||
     The4ork |
ok so i pulled the tank to re-do the rear rocker covers and decided to replace the oem plugs with some race plugs i bought for my blast (accidently bought a whole pack of 4 ngk's) and noticed the plugs were a little white. ive done alot of forced induction tuning on watercooled vw's with standalone and they are on the lean side... im not sure what jets are in the carb now, i dont know how to check or where to start... im gonna run around on the race plug tomorrow and check them, but i have a feeling they will be slightly more lean with the hotter plug in there. im having a bit of trouble navagating around and finding info threads for the tube bikes (used to the blast forum, everything is easy to find and lots of help) but i cant find a whole detailed DIY on what i need to do with the carb... mods are: cone filter intake, V&H exhaust, and as far as engine mods thats all i know... bike came with a dynojet kit, looks like the "tube" with all the holes in it was installed as the old one was in the box, and there is a new 45 jet, and a new 170 and 185 jet in there. so im guessing it either has a 175 or 180 in it now? also still has the paper for a free dyno run  | ||
| Guell |
I think stock they came with a 190 main Im running a 45 slow, 200 main and 2.5 turns out, i know its a little bit rich and probably needs to be dynotuned. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Carb removal is easy. With the tank on, shut off the fuel valve and run the bike until it dies, emptying the carburetor and fuel line, and remove the fuel line from the tank/petcock (skip that step if your tank is already off). There's a 3/4" nut on the backside of the choke knob - loosen it and the knob/cable drops out of the bracket. Remove your air filter assembly and the bracket that holds the carb to the heads. Pull on the carb. It slips into a boot on the intake; it will pop off with some wiggling. You can do this with the throttle cables still attached. Once the carb is off, turn it upside down. There are 4 screws at the corners of the bottom (the bowl). Remove the 4 screws and the bowl comes off. Make note of the accelerator pump rod; it has to go back into it's bellows-boot on reassembly. There is also a rubber O-ring gasket in there, be careful not to nick it. You will, on looking into the bottom of the bowl-less carb, see the main jet staring at you. You should be able to read the size as it sits. In the center of the bowl, there is a recess about the size of a medium size screwdriver blade. That holds your idle jet. If you look in there, you can see it; you'll need a flatblade screwdriver to pull it out. If you've rejetted your Blast, this should all look familiar. I run 45/190 in my S2 with thunderstorm top end and OEM 2" header. My S1W, factory thunderstorm with race intake and full 2.5" race exhaust, runs 48/195. Your jetting will vary depending on how much packing is in your muffler; your altitude; etc. By the time you get it "right"...you'll be an expert at pulling it apart, LOL. When you reassemble, smear some oil or lube on the inside of the intake boot where the carb slides in, to keep it from catching, bunching, and leaking. Also be careful when you tighten the 3/4" nut on the choke cable; it's easy to break the fitting, and your choke won't stay out, requiring a new choke cable. Ask me how I know, lol. |
