| Author | Message | ||
     12mpghwy |
This time it was the front upper, they are allways seated torqued to 7 lbs heated and re torqued but they still break my solution idea Is to seat the header into the seal then making sure it's even then measure the space behind the flange, and put a spacer or stack of washers behind the flange such that when the flange is tightened down the force is channeled down to the head. I think this would keep the bolts from shearing at the head. | ||
| Preybird1 |
I have broken many of these studs and if 1 more break's off, I will have the heads drilled and tapped and install bigger studs grade 8 quality. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Just remember that the nut pulling the flange to the head is what crushes the gasket into place, making your seal. Put your whole exhaust system together in its mounts - header on the studs with nuts finger tight, muffler on header, all hangars in place but loose. Tighten the head studs first. Then work your way to the tailpipe, tightening your way down, wiggling and adjusting as you go. I have yet to break a stud - anywhere - using this method. | ||
| Sloppy |
Rat's correct - if your exhaust is properly tensioned you won't have a problem with broken studs or loose nuts. When I hear of broken studs it typically is around the removal and reinstallation of a muffler. Sometimes this is done incorrectly at the DEALER. There are various methods to properly torque the header - mine differs from Rat's, but it 's a similar concept. I think there is a procedure in the FSM... | ||
| Preybird1 |
I found that installing the header first like you guys said.....And while everything is in place and loose start the bike and let it all vibrate and settle then re-tighten. After the last bolt broke. I did this exact same procedure and the exhaust can vibrated back almost 1" Then i tightened everything down. When the stud broke the header was out of alignment 1/2" above the port, So i think the exhaust was pushing forward on the header studs causing the failure. | ||
| 5liter |
I'll probably jinx myself now, but I've never had this problem. Well, I've said it now it's time for a ride................. | ||
| 12mpghwy |
"Just remember that the nut pulling the flange to the head is what crushes the gasket into place, making your seal." It would still seal just as good and be in the same position WRT the seal as long as it was seated and seal crushed in before being put in place with the spacers, obviously spacing it out evenly with the same distance or slightly (few thou)less that was behind it without spacers being there. What the spacers would be there to accomplish is to take shear load off the studs. I also did make sure that the exhaust wasn't under tension, and installed it from head to muffler. The last go around I even got it completely hot, then loosened everything, ran it like preybird describes and then put it all back together and I still broke a stud after that. | ||
| Preybird1 |
So this thread got me thinking and i am going to go ahead and have some custom studs made. I also was talking to my uncle who is a machinist and owner of the shop. If he would Use one of his million dollar machines, To whip me up a set of new exhaust flanges that have bigger stud hole's in them. I just need to decide what type of metal will be the best to use??? I can have anything in his scrap bins. He has lots of great metals in those bins. I don't think making the flange bigger would help anything or modifying it would do any good. Any ideas guys-gals? | ||
| Malott442 |
I second anyone who said the studs won't break under proper installation and care. I've never broken one, never had one come loose. Always tighten the header evenly and in multiple steps. THEN tighten the mid, THEN tighten the muffler. | ||
| Texastechx1 |
I think you guys that are popping studs too often need to check ALOT of other things before you try to "rig" your own ways to "fix" it. 1) If you have a nut come loose... don't just tighten it back up. loosen up ALL header nuts and then repeat torque procedure. I have personally snapped a few because I DIDN'T do this! 2) The rings that hold the thick flange to your headers (thin steel ring) needs to be in good condition, if it's bent or warped the slightest, REPLACE! If it isn't in good condition then its not doing the job it was designed to do... and they are damn cheap! 3) ANY time you work on your exhaust, go ahead and loosen it ALL up and put back together in the procedures mentioned above.(header, mid, then rear muffler) 4) how does your Y-hangar at the front look? my factory one went bad on me when the rubber bushing started to push out. until i replaced it I was having nothing but exhaust issues. 5) Does your muffler have packing? If so, be sure to repack as often as needed to keep not only the noise down, but harmful VIBES from literally ripping your exhaust apart. don't like the idea of having to do regular up-keep on your exhaust? then put the stocker back on or find an aftermarket chamberd slip-on. (if anyone makes one) 6) Are your ISOs in good condition? if they aren't, your exhaust can really be getting the beat down from the excessive vibes. When I check over and follow these rules, I don't have any problems with snapping exhaust studs... when I don't... they snap almost instantly! | ||
| Oldog |
+2 On Texas advice add to it, periodocaly replace the studs, as heat cycles and fatuge play a part in the life of these parts. | ||
| Kalali |
Is the double-nut trick a good way to take the studs out or there is a better way? | ||
| Jramsey |
Double nutting works fine provided the stud isn't broken, the wedge type stud removers work pretty good but require more turning clearance and tend to chew up the threads. The best is the collet type but their very expensive. | ||
| Brinnutz |
I broke an exhaust stud...drilled out and replaced. Then I had a race header crack near collector. Then, I realized that my front and rear iso's were SHOT. All within a couple of weeks, so I blame all of those failures on torn iso's. Check your iso's!!! | ||
| 12mpghwy |
My iso's are new, I think that the increased failure rate may have more to do with the wileyco's design for the muffler mounts and my re design of the always cracking front mount, as well as the much lighter weight of the system when compared with stock, and metal fatigue. So far only studs which were original had broken, but when I went to try and replace the rest after the first one pulled out the original owners helicoil job, only one came out with the double nut method. The rest were on the verge of stripping. Now that the other 2 have broken in succession I have all new studs. In any case I ran the problem and solution through the mechanical engineer that works on one of the contracts that I work on and he says its a good idea. (Message edited by 12mpghwy on September 17, 2009) | ||
| Jramsey |
Grind the brackets and welds off the J pipe and fab up a shoe and use a aircraft style hose clamp and you breakage problems should go away. The Wileyco J pipe is Stainless will re-color after a few hours of run time. | ||
| 12mpghwy |
I did the shoe style clamp already, that's what my re design was. That part hasn't failed in 500 miles were as it failed the first time in 120 miles when I put the brand new wileyco system on. | ||
| Brinnutz |
gottalove awileyCo's lifetime warranty..they told me to go f myself when I told them 2 separate mounts broke... |
