| Author | Message | ||
     F_skinner |
Ok, like I do not have enough projects. This one will be on the back burner but I can go ahead and get the body work, frame and wheels going.  I need help to pick colors for the frame and bodywork, possibly the wheels as well. Any ideas? Anyone good at photo shop. The winner will get something, I will look through my swag to see what I have as a prize. The bike will look somewhat stock. The motor will be a big bore. | ||
| Ratbuell |
First off, that oil tank needs to be stripped and polished. Show that badboy off! I've always been partial to the Volcano Gray with orange frame and wheels from the M2L and S3...or were you looking for more custom? I'm not gonna ask how many this is now....  | ||
| Phelan |
I always wanted to do an S2 that had a mean look to it like an S1W, Brin's M2, or Joesbuell's mutant, so my idea is red frame, swingarm, and wheels, Carbon black bodywork with red Buell logos, red ceramic coat on the exhaust, blacked out motor with stainless hardware and red powdered pushrod tubes, center rockerbox trim, and couple other small pieces. Of course it would also need a Corbin seat with red piping or Baldwin Motorbike saddle with red stitching. | ||
| Buffalobolt |
First off, that oil tank needs to be stripped and polished. +1 But then, Oz666 keeps telling me that I have a sickness when it comes to polishing ALL of the aluminum on my bike! Maybe I shouldn't spread this sickness... | ||
| F_skinner |
I met Oz666 at Homecoming and he did mention you had a sickness. I do not think it has to do with polishing.  Joe, that is four S2s, one 98 S1W and one 2009 Uly. I wonder if a XB motor will fit? (I may need to contact Joesbuell) Volcano Gray and orange! I am partial to that color as well. | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Nah, just keep the tuber motor and build it up with XB or aftermarket big-bore parts. That way you can still pull the tranny without splitting the cases when it needs work. ...best of both worlds! | ||
| Ratbuell |
I think an XB motor will fit, with hybrid mounts. Remember though..going to an XB mill takes away the trapdoor transmission. I'd go 1250 or bigger, Tuber or aftermarket EFI (maybe even '07-up XL with a SuperTuner?), Baker six speed. But that's just me Helluva stable you have there, Frank. You know, running the S2 list doesn't mean you have to *own* all of them too, right? Which reminds me...'95 S2 #569 is at our shop right now for a stator. Customer bike. I can get info if you want for the list. Red Snap, white frame, PM wheels, race header/muffler. | ||
| Phelan |
We could go all day about performance options... I agree with Joe though; use tuber cases and XB parts. The BEST EFI for these projects is the DELPHI from the HDs, and the cheapest way to convert is to buy up all the related parts from an '07-up Sportster, machine the crank to have the same teeth as the XL crank, fit the crank sensor in the cases, blah blah blah (I did spend six months researching and planning a build of this nature). Option #2- give Dan all your disposeable income and go all out with S&S cases, 90", stage III XB heads, PSI carb, lengthen the swingarm about a foot lol and hold on. | ||
| Gowindward |
Light silver frame & wheels with a deep royal blue for the body work. | ||
| F_skinner |
You know, running the S2 list doesn't mean you have to *own* all of them too, right? I just need to have all the ones in Colorado. Since my friend Don Casto left Colorado I may be winning. Which reminds me...'95 S2 #569 is at our shop right now for a stator. Customer bike. I can get info if you want for the list. Red Snap, white frame, PM wheels, race header/muffler. Can you direct the owner to the owners list. I would rather they give the information to me to avoid any future hostilities. Thanks Joe. Loren, that sounds cool. Ross, I had a 89 inch in my Sporty. Remind me to tell you sometime WHY, that is not a good idea | ||
| F_skinner |
BTW: I think, but am not sure, the oil bag was powder coated. How do I remove that stuff? | ||
| Phelan |
With this:  it's $8/can at WalMart. One can should be plenty. (Message edited by Phelan on September 03, 2009) | ||
| Gowindward |
Is that stuff like bug and tar remover. If you smash an Aircraft on your fairing or windscreen, that stuff will get it off. I had no idea!  | ||
| F_skinner |
Ok, got the frame isolated. It was not easy. I broke a couple of 7/32 allen sockets as always when trying to get the side plates off. Nothing came off easy. I thought of Roger when I stripped out one of the side plate bolts and ended up drilling it out.  Can someone tell me how to get these rubber things out of the frame. They are the things the screw is screwed into.  My guess is that they were glued in and I was going to try heat to get them out. Any suggestions???? TIA, Frank | ||
| Phelan |
I know you have to work them side to side to get them out; I'd try and make a hook with a handle to work around and pull them out. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Dental pick around the outside. Thread a screw in just enough to catch threads, and use the screw to pull 'em out. They're the same sort of construction as the rubber wellnuts that hold a Firebolt windscreen on (remember those?). Tighten the screw and they swell up..but you should be able to catch threads before making it swell. The dental pick is just to break it loose...they've been in there for a couple of years, lol. | ||
| F_skinner |
A little heat from a propane torch worked like a champ. Next problem. How to I get the fork lock off or at least the cover????  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Just the cover? I think it's a rivet...drill it out and replace with a screw? Dammit. Now you're gonna make me look at mine when I go out to put it in the garage...lol | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'll have to look in parts lookup on Friday when I'm back at work (off till then), but it looks like either a round head rivet or some sort of roll pin. Cut the head off, pull the cover, and you should find a set/attaching screw in there to remove the lock itself. Now to decide if I want to ride from MD to VT and back on Tue/Wed/Thur...and if I take a tuber or a Uly. Time off is a bitch, lol. | ||
| F_skinner |
I would like to remove the whole thing. It looks like a pin of some type. I think I have some big cutters I might try. How does the lock assembly come out? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Use a cutoff wheel if you have one (or a Dremel); should be able to take the head off the pin and the cover should come right off. Don't know if that pin holds the lock in, or if the one section of the lock you can't see because the cover doesn't rotate out of the way has a setscrew in it...but IIRC once that pin is out, it's pretty self evident how it all comes apart. I wish parts lookup was on H-Dnet....so I could get to it from home. Part numbers I can check...but no exploded diagrams.  | ||
| F_skinner |
No problem Joe, I was going to remove the whole thing because the previous owner told me it did not work. I just checked it and it works fine. I will just take the cover off before powder coat. I also need to fab and weld a rear fairing (rear section) tab that appears to be missing. Then it will be ready for powder coat with a color to yet to be determined. One side plate was bent very bad and rubbed the swing arm. I have a spare swing arm (or two) somewhere. The front spider assembly is badly damaged and bent. Luckily I have one of those as well. This is some fun $hit. | ||
| F_skinner |
Ok, here is the deal with the S2 fork lock, The lock cover is actually the mechanism for keeping the lock assembly in the neck of the frame. It just slides out once you take the cover off. A very simple design!  Getting the paint off the oil bag.  I am still making the missing tab and will have it welded on.  While I am doing all this I have a lot of down time waiting for the paint to peel so I painted the Uly bag plastic insert cover thingy in Thrust Blue to match the blue body work I just put back on the bike.  If I had planned my weekend better I would have went to NJ to see the race since Lynn has been in WI all weekend. Now I need to clean house before she gets home tonight. That means getting the S2 parts out of the dish washer.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Want a guaranteed way to make it a "win" situation for both of you? Buy a new dishwasher for her kitchen. Put the old one out in the garage for yourself. | ||
| F_skinner |
Good idea Rat, of course I blame a lot of ideas on you when talking to Lynn.... She may want to talk to you!  | ||
| Phelan |
Did you use the stuff I recommended or did you find something else? Looks like the same result either way. | ||
| F_skinner |
I used some stuff I got a Lowes. I forgot I had it. It really did a number on the finish so I will try to sand and polish. If it becomes too much work I will take it to a metal polisher. If that is too expensive I will paint it. Either way I am going to use it. | ||
| Phelan |
If you have a solid workbench, you can get a stationary buffer for something like $60 at Harbor Frieght. It makes jobs like this a lot easier. | ||
| F_skinner |
Yes, I have seem them. If Lynn was not with me I would have bought one and many other things. | ||
| Spiderman |
Hmmmm colors for the S2... I always loved the original Parkway Blue, yes there are two. There is a funny story behind how it is purple, remind me to tell you about it. But Brad, AKA BluzM2 has a Parkway Blue S2 that is stunning, it is a mix of Blue Streak and Curraco blue. If you could pull that off then it could co like this... Blue Body work with white lettering, White frame and the rims will be the same blue as the body with white edges kind of like the design I have on MJ's wheels...  (white where the red is) OR I have no idea the name of the color but I know of an RSS that is a Charcoal, almost black metalic flake with a ghost Buell on the tank. That similar paint job with a Carbon Fiber weave Corbin seat, Black or similar color anodized frame and rims would be trick Or Billet metalic silver, with a coated frame that resembles polished aluminium like I used to have on MJ, but make sure you get it from a good coater, I have had trouble with this coating and is why I went with black  As for the rims you could go two ways, polished PMs or engine turn the PMs and have a Spirit of St. Louis thing goin on... Or The Volcano grey and orange would be bitchin too |
