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Andymnelson
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well I just spent like 2 hours reading posts in the Old School Buell and KV forums about primary oils. Certainly nothing decisive found anywhere! :-p

The recap of what I have found (so that you can refrain from posting redundant info here):

- Many run synthetic with mixed results
- Don't run Mobil 1 gear oil, M1 V-twin is ok
- some run the recommended 75/90 weight, some run 20/50 weight

I am replacing some rotted/leaking oil lines and the trans vent line today, so I am changing oil and primary oil at the same time. I run Royal Purple 20/50 in both holes on my XB, but I am not convinced that this will be best in my X1. What say you? What should I run (brand and viscosity) in my primary? Please only recommend oils available at a typical auto parts store, as I want to wrap this all up today!
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Buelltours
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

a 75/90 trans oil is the same as a 20/50 motor oil. Get a motorcycle specific oil to be safe. 15W40 / 20W40 / 20W50 / 15W50, synthetic blend. IMO.
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5liter
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Syn3 in my primary.
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Cobraman
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

mobil 1 20w50 synthetic for v-twins in both on my 00 X1
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Sloppy
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

75/90 trans oil IS NOT THE "SAME" as 20/50 motor oil. The oil is a similar VISCOSITY, but not the same oil.

Trans oil, and let's define it specifically as Gear Oil, falls under different types. You "typically" see GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils in the stores.

GL-5 GEAR oils are not recommended for use in our tranny as it will corrode copper / brass components. GL-4 GEAR oils are okay to use as they will not corrode your tranny. "Typically", GL-4 gear oils are used in transmissions and GL-5 gear oils are used in rear differentials.

To also clarify - you can use ANY Mobil 1, 15w-50 oil in the tranny as it is also a GL-4 oil. There is no need (and in my opinion, a waste of money) to use "V-Twin" designated oil in our Buells as they need only meet the API-C rating. Buells DO NOT carry the JASO rating which are specific to a very short list of motorcycles.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, thanks for the opinions.

Seeing nothing new and exciting in this thread, I used Valvoline VR-1. The PO definitely used some kind of gear oil, judging by the scent. Took her for spin, seems like all is well.

And Yay! no more oil leak!
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Blake
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 06:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"a 75/90 trans oil is the same as a 20/50 motor oil."

That is inaccurate. The viscosities may be similar. Some of the additives are different.




Oil Viscosities versus SAE Viscosity Grade
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Formula+ in the primary for me.

Tried RP once - never again.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Phillip, what makes you say that? I only ask because I run it in both oles on my XB, and love it on that bike..
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Sloppy
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil is not recommended for use in wet clutches
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It made the tranny feel really sloppy, didn't go into gear with that confident "clunk" that I'm used to.. I just didn't like the feel of it at all.

That was the RP 20w50 MaxCycle. Other RP variants may yield different results.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 12:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

" didn't go into gear with that confident "clunk" that I'm used to"

lol, I like it in my XB because the clunk is now gone! Now it shifts nice and smooth, and engages firmly without the clunk.




"Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil is not recommended for use in wet clutches"

Huh, now that I'm done and have put some satisfactory miles on...I see this on their sight also! I wonder why? Do you suppose it's their use of friction modifiers? It really does feel nice with it!
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Andymnelson
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Haha, it appears that the only reason they say the is marketing. They want us to spend $7/quart on the motorcycle stuff instead of $4/quart on the VR-1.

I'll stick with the VR-1, it seems to be working well. I'll be doing about 700-800 miles this weekend on her, we'll see what I think after that!
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Sloppy
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 01:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The VR-1 API-C classification is VERY outdated.

A lot of people mentioned that Gear Oil "seemed" to be working fine for thousands of miles, too. The price was paid far later.

Of course it would be a very easy to just use the recommended oil... like Amsoil, Mobil 1, RP, Syn 3, F+, etc. Lots of choices are available. And many are located at your local oil shop.

You have the knowledge, you make the choice, you have the consequences. Likely you'll be okay.

"Luck favors the prepared"
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 02:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"A lot of people mentioned that Gear Oil "seemed" to be working fine for thousands of miles, too. The price was paid far later. "

I disagree. We've seen stator failures in non-gear oil as well. And we've beat this to death. If copper ever becomes exposed to the lubricant, the stator has already failed.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 04:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"Of course it would be a very easy to just use the recommended oil... like Amsoil, Mobil 1, RP, Syn 3, F+"

Actually isn't the only recommended oil HD Sport Trans fluid? At least that's all my factory SM recommends.

And by your argument, the VR-1 fits into that category, since it is the same oil as the v-twin stuff, re-marketed to different folks.

And I agree with Blake's disagreement.: )
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Jramsey
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 04:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It is my understanding that Sport Trans is no longer available except for unsold old stock.

Formula + is its replacement.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Formula+ works fine.
Why screw around?
There are wires, clutch plates and roller bearings and gears in there.

I usually just run normal boring 20-50 in the engine but I always run the recommended H-D product in my tranny.

I experimented once back when my bike was an ironhead and the tranny crapped out shortly thereafter.
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I use a No No Red-Line-High Impact(Thick as pudding)!!184,000 + Miles of easy shifting,same Clutches same primary chains!!!Correction 194,500+++ miles.

(Message edited by ebutch on September 03, 2009)

(Message edited by ebutch on September 03, 2009)
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

In 194,500++++ miles I have gone though 5 staters.If could cut in half I,d Change.How long is your Stater life? Staters are a weak point in My Buells. Say 35,000 mile Life.

(Message edited by ebutch on September 03, 2009)
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ebutch:

Adjust your primary chain looser and do not try to get that last electron out of the battery ...
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A just chain at tightest point with 3/4 slack with out lookin at book and did to speck when replaced stater,crank seal,trans output seal at120,000.miles last sping.

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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 08:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think I got about 44,000 miles out of last stater On s2T.

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