Author |
Message |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 12:31 pm: |
|
Well I just spent like 2 hours reading posts in the Old School Buell and KV forums about primary oils. Certainly nothing decisive found anywhere! :-p The recap of what I have found (so that you can refrain from posting redundant info here): - Many run synthetic with mixed results - Don't run Mobil 1 gear oil, M1 V-twin is ok - some run the recommended 75/90 weight, some run 20/50 weight I am replacing some rotted/leaking oil lines and the trans vent line today, so I am changing oil and primary oil at the same time. I run Royal Purple 20/50 in both holes on my XB, but I am not convinced that this will be best in my X1. What say you? What should I run (brand and viscosity) in my primary? Please only recommend oils available at a typical auto parts store, as I want to wrap this all up today! |
Buelltours
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 01:03 pm: |
|
a 75/90 trans oil is the same as a 20/50 motor oil. Get a motorcycle specific oil to be safe. 15W40 / 20W40 / 20W50 / 15W50, synthetic blend. IMO. |
5liter
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 01:30 pm: |
|
Syn3 in my primary. |
Cobraman
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 02:03 pm: |
|
mobil 1 20w50 synthetic for v-twins in both on my 00 X1 |
Sloppy
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 03:25 pm: |
|
75/90 trans oil IS NOT THE "SAME" as 20/50 motor oil. The oil is a similar VISCOSITY, but not the same oil. Trans oil, and let's define it specifically as Gear Oil, falls under different types. You "typically" see GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils in the stores. GL-5 GEAR oils are not recommended for use in our tranny as it will corrode copper / brass components. GL-4 GEAR oils are okay to use as they will not corrode your tranny. "Typically", GL-4 gear oils are used in transmissions and GL-5 gear oils are used in rear differentials. To also clarify - you can use ANY Mobil 1, 15w-50 oil in the tranny as it is also a GL-4 oil. There is no need (and in my opinion, a waste of money) to use "V-Twin" designated oil in our Buells as they need only meet the API-C rating. Buells DO NOT carry the JASO rating which are specific to a very short list of motorcycles. |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 05:19 pm: |
|
Ok, thanks for the opinions. Seeing nothing new and exciting in this thread, I used Valvoline VR-1. The PO definitely used some kind of gear oil, judging by the scent. Took her for spin, seems like all is well. And Yay! no more oil leak! |
Blake
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 06:39 pm: |
|
"a 75/90 trans oil is the same as a 20/50 motor oil." That is inaccurate. The viscosities may be similar. Some of the additives are different.
|
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 07:32 pm: |
|
Formula+ in the primary for me. Tried RP once - never again. |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 08:13 pm: |
|
Phillip, what makes you say that? I only ask because I run it in both oles on my XB, and love it on that bike.. |
Sloppy
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 08:20 pm: |
|
Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil is not recommended for use in wet clutches |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2009 - 08:29 pm: |
|
It made the tranny feel really sloppy, didn't go into gear with that confident "clunk" that I'm used to.. I just didn't like the feel of it at all. That was the RP 20w50 MaxCycle. Other RP variants may yield different results. |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 12:00 am: |
|
" didn't go into gear with that confident "clunk" that I'm used to" lol, I like it in my XB because the clunk is now gone! Now it shifts nice and smooth, and engages firmly without the clunk. "Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil is not recommended for use in wet clutches" Huh, now that I'm done and have put some satisfactory miles on...I see this on their sight also! I wonder why? Do you suppose it's their use of friction modifiers? It really does feel nice with it! |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 10:19 am: |
|
Haha, it appears that the only reason they say the is marketing. They want us to spend $7/quart on the motorcycle stuff instead of $4/quart on the VR-1. I'll stick with the VR-1, it seems to be working well. I'll be doing about 700-800 miles this weekend on her, we'll see what I think after that! |
Sloppy
| Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 01:09 pm: |
|
The VR-1 API-C classification is VERY outdated. A lot of people mentioned that Gear Oil "seemed" to be working fine for thousands of miles, too. The price was paid far later. Of course it would be a very easy to just use the recommended oil... like Amsoil, Mobil 1, RP, Syn 3, F+, etc. Lots of choices are available. And many are located at your local oil shop. You have the knowledge, you make the choice, you have the consequences. Likely you'll be okay. "Luck favors the prepared" |
Blake
| Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 02:33 pm: |
|
"A lot of people mentioned that Gear Oil "seemed" to be working fine for thousands of miles, too. The price was paid far later. " I disagree. We've seen stator failures in non-gear oil as well. And we've beat this to death. If copper ever becomes exposed to the lubricant, the stator has already failed. |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 04:31 pm: |
|
"Of course it would be a very easy to just use the recommended oil... like Amsoil, Mobil 1, RP, Syn 3, F+" Actually isn't the only recommended oil HD Sport Trans fluid? At least that's all my factory SM recommends. And by your argument, the VR-1 fits into that category, since it is the same oil as the v-twin stuff, re-marketed to different folks. And I agree with Blake's disagreement. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 04:50 pm: |
|
It is my understanding that Sport Trans is no longer available except for unsold old stock. Formula + is its replacement. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 06:15 pm: |
|
Formula+ works fine. Why screw around? There are wires, clutch plates and roller bearings and gears in there. I usually just run normal boring 20-50 in the engine but I always run the recommended H-D product in my tranny. I experimented once back when my bike was an ironhead and the tranny crapped out shortly thereafter. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 01:29 pm: |
|
I use a No No Red-Line-High Impact(Thick as pudding)!!184,000 + Miles of easy shifting,same Clutches same primary chains!!!Correction 194,500+++ miles. (Message edited by ebutch on September 03, 2009) (Message edited by ebutch on September 03, 2009) |
Ebutch
| Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 04:25 pm: |
|
In 194,500++++ miles I have gone though 5 staters.If could cut in half I,d Change.How long is your Stater life? Staters are a weak point in My Buells. Say 35,000 mile Life. (Message edited by ebutch on September 03, 2009) |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 06:58 pm: |
|
Ebutch: Adjust your primary chain looser and do not try to get that last electron out of the battery ... |
Ebutch
| Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 08:03 pm: |
|
A just chain at tightest point with 3/4 slack with out lookin at book and did to speck when replaced stater,crank seal,trans output seal at120,000.miles last sping.
|
Ebutch
| Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 08:32 pm: |
|
I think I got about 44,000 miles out of last stater On s2T.
|
|