| Author | Message | ||
     Adsva83 |
I'm about two months away from the end of the riding season here in Indiana. I've decided to do a complete tear down of my X1 this winter to have anything and everything that is metal powder coated a different color. Also I'm planning on painting the tank cover and fly screen to match the powder coat. I've always done my own work on my bikes (X1, M2), but would rate my wrenching skills at about a 6 out of 10. I'm no expert but I can usually figure things out with the manual of help I get here. I'm just wanting to know, are there any issues that aren't seen on the surface that I should know about? Any parts during disassembly that will cause me to scratch my head? Other than my mostly standard tool box, are there any special tools I will need? Last, what are the things that I should just go ahead and replace while I have it apart? Items that are known to fail with age and mileage, although I'm only at 6500 miles, it's still 9 years old. Thanks in advance for all and any tips/advice. | ||
| Oldog |
brake lines and complete rebuild both ends, fork rebuild shock replace or rebuild remove the spring plate from the clutch install 1 steel 2 friction replace the crank case seal to the primary replace the oil pump drive gear with a bronze one wheel bearings intake seals and injector orings tps sensor o2 sensor cht sensor belt & pullies cables and connectors as needed my Suggestions how are you going to paint/powder coat it (color design) | ||
| Adsva83 |
I'm wanting to do a bright blue on the frame and metal parts. The tank and fly screen I'm thinking a silver with a blue racing stripe to match the frame, with a different color pin stripe to outline the racing stripes. The tail section I will have powder coated two-tone as well to match the stripes on the tank as it flows back. That's my base idea, but i'm sure with different insight it will change slightly before i have it done. | ||
| Easy_rider |
Adam, Decide now if you want to do your own fork and shock rebuilds, and order the tools listed in the manual now so you'll have them. I have a parts manual and went page by page ordering pretty much anything that was labeled as gasket. I missed a couple - today's miss is that I didn't order anything off of the starter page, including a starter gasket. You'll need the two sockets to loosen the primary and clutch nuts. We live close and you're free to borrow mine, but I'm guessing that you're like me and want your own. There is also a seal installation tool in changing the crankcase seal and a special tool to lock the primary drive in place. Not necessary, but preferred. An engine stand of some sort would probably be nice. I've made it by without one, but it hasn't all been good. A propane torch will be nice to loosen some of those older bolts, along with a can of PB Blast. We should talk some more. Especially while I'm in the midst of a rebuild. | ||
| Adsva83 |
An engine stand is definitely something I'm going to look into getting. I need to do a complete top end gasket replacement as well, I'm currently leaking and plan to do it while it's apart. I think its something I can fab up myself though. The help when that time comes will always be greatly appreciated. And if your bike is still apart and you need anything powder coated I can get you a great deal. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Take pictures...I forgot to at some steps, so when I go to put mine together, I'll probably be requesting pics from people, lol | ||
| Phelan |
+1 on what everyone has said, especially Brinnutz lol. I just finished rebuilding the transmission in my Dad's FXD. I had to do it in my spare time, and he lives 25 miles from me, so it was a 4-5 hours/week thing for 4 weeks. I was still learning too, so a lot of time was spent studying the parts at hand. Long story short, one of the most useful tools besides the FSM was the parts diagrams I saved from bikebandit.com. They are the same as in the parts manual, but we don't have a PM. Remembering every piece is 9/10ths the battle IMHO. I lost an entire day an needlessly pulled the transmission apart a 5th time so that I could realign the maingear, only to find that the only reason the pulley didn't turn when I had it all together was because I forgot to put the spacer behind it (doh!). There was nothing wrong with the maingear. Had I looked at the diagram again, instead of assuming I remembered everything after the 4th time putting it back together in a 3 day period, I would have caught that and saved a few hours work. | ||
| Adsva83 |
It sounds like a polaroid and a permanent marker is a great investment for this project. | ||
| Easy_rider |
...and a box of ziplock baggies. "I'll set these here and they'll be there when I come back in a couple days to reassemble" doesn't always seem to work out! I wish I had bag and tagged a few things. I keep saying I'm going to get a garage camera, too. The wife keeps taking off with mine. For $100 you can get a 3Mp that I'd think would do the trick. Where are you going for the powdercoat? I used Indy Powdercoating for mine, and don't have any issues at 0 miles. I have a winter project to coat later this year, though. Just to be a devil's advocate: Why change wheel bearings when they have low miles? The same with belt and pullies. On a high-mile bike I understand, it's woth it to not have to dig in there later. That's a lot of dough for a bike with 7K miles, though. Why change the oil pump drive if the current one looks good. (BTW, I can sell you a bronze oil pump gear). | ||
| Phelan |
And a parts manual if you don't already have one. Try and group things together as best as you can when tearing down. Frank uses baggies to put the little stuff in when he rebuilds his tubers. I leave EVERYTHING on the lift in a mess when I'm working, but I'm scatterbrained enough to work like that lol. The BEST advise I ever read on the internet and put to use was cardboard templates. When you take a cover off, draw a template of it on cardboard and make holes in corresponding spots to put the bolts in so that you don't put the long bolt in the short hole and the short bolt in the long hole. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Also, get a motor stand and attach to a bench...OR, do what I did and build a bench for the motor. =)  | ||
| Rick_a |
Last time I did so I had one part I placed in a different area for 'safe keeping.' It held me up for a few weeks and I ended up making another part. I didn't find that rear shock canister retaining ring until we moved. | ||
| F_skinner |
Adsva83, I think everyone had a lot of good suggestions. Here is how I do it. I disassemble front to back or back to front (wiring harness and electrical is done all at once). I have a commercial motor stand that has a motor in it right now so I will make one that I can slide under the bike and drop the motor. The bike should balance on the stand so I do not put any pressure on vital mounts when dropping it. (Dropping it in this case is an expression) I am anal about the mounts and they go back exactly how they were taken off. I support the whole bike with a ladder over the bike and some straps. This allows me to take the rear and front apart without using stands. For everything save the motor I would replace all bearings (neck and swing arm bearings), isolators, cables and seals. Rebuild your card and brake calipers as well. As far as the motor it depends on what you want to do. I am getting ready to restore a S2T and it will take a year or two for me to do it. I need to learn how to paint and have been buying parts slowly. I use pictures (cheap garage camera) ziplocks and Plastic boxes. I usually disassemble in the garage and move everything to the basement. The better half is getting a little pissed about that but I prefer to work in a warm environment. I started heating my garage last winter. I also use the dish washer to wash some parts that will not be damaged in high heat like the swingarm block. I have to make sure I do that when the GF is not home. She has caught me a few times. She really gets pissed when I wet sand in the kitchen sink. She has not seen the portable paint booth I will be making soon.  With each rebuild it seems I get stuck on something. A bolt that will not come out or just something as easy as bleeding brakes. Make sure you use the forum for that. Everything you do has already been done by someone here before. They come apart pretty easy. Getting them back together can be tough. The hardest part for me is figuring out what I need to do and in what sequence it needs to be done. This becomes more important when ordering parts and sending parts out for paint or powdercoat. Frank | ||
| Gowindward |
"I also use the dish washer to wash some parts" "She really gets pissed when I wet sand in the kitchen sink." And what's the problem???? That's what parts washers and sinks are used for.... I always throw the tooth brush in the dishwasher with the parts too. It gets all the grime out of it before putting in back in the bathroom. She will never know.....LOL  | ||
| Oldog |
She will never know..... Sure ......  | ||
| Adsva83 |
I'm planning on using straps and the rafters in my garage, as I have seen some on here do, to raise the bike to disassemble. Another thing I plan on replacing are all of the fasteners. The previous owner let the bike sit for 5 years and didn't even have plates on it. Needless to say a lot of the fasteners have some surface rust on them. | ||
| Easy_rider |
As far as the fasteners, the parts manual will have generic descriptions for many of them. Decide whether you want to pay HD prices or spend some time in the hardware store trying to locate them. I did a little of both, but can't tell you that one is better than the other. Another hurdle to overcome is the change in part numbers a few years back. I have a parts book with old numbers. I submitted lists to Southside and received bags of parts with either new part numbers marked on them or no number whatsoever. I spent quite a bit of time sorting it all out. I have a list of parts that I've ordered and the updated part numbers received along with the current prices. It's still in process as I finish the project. I'll post at the end, but can send you the current state if you're interested. | ||
| Adsva83 |
With the fasteners, I'm planning on putting them in plastic bags with a picture of where they go. I'm planning on taking them to say Fastenal, and just matching them up with new ones, putting the new ones in the same bags with the old ones. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
 A little paint work for your motivation!!! i believe i will be in the same boat this winter with fork tubes, swingarm, triple clamps and header all due for a coating. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
When pulling the motor.. there's a small allen screw in the bottom of the case that you can pull out to get 100% of your oil to drain out before pulling the motor. That makes it lighter and not quite as messy later on. I didn't want to spend any money on an engine stand so I kept the motor in the frame as long as possible while removing the top end, tranny, cams, primary, etc. With the front wheel in a wheel chock and the rear held up by a cherry picker the frame offers a very secure place to work and the tube frame offers plenty of access from almost any angle. As others have mentioned - take pictures. Another thing that helped me is putting all hardware in zip lock bags and labeling it. (ie: a bag of cam cover screws, another bag for primary cover screws) You can also label each end of hoses and/or wires with masking tape and a sharpie. If you think you'll remember where it all goes - you're wrong. Time flies when you're waiting on parts and not labeling everything will leave you scratching your head during reassembly. DAMHIK |
