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Archive through September 11, 2009Edgar33330 09-11-09  01:30 am
         

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Edgar333
Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

UPDATE::
intake seals repalced.tps reset. the problem is still there.
once its fulley warmed up this thing will not rev passed 3k-3.5k just backfire pretty bad. im pretty pist.
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Edgar333
Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i re-flashed the ecm with a map that came with the ECMSPY cd, no change!!

so i go check the NEW intake seals, and it seem like the is still a leak!?? WTF,
. what are the chances that the injector o-rings are leaking too??

im gonna take it apart again, and reasembale it with some high temp silicon...
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Drhacknstine
Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I highly recommend HYLOMAR. It flat out works! It's non setting O2 sensor safe, good to 600F. Resistant to all fluids used in your bike. The FSM recommends it for some small items. I use it on all most almost every gasket I touch,ZERO leaks EVER. And excess just wipes off. I find silicon is a real PITA and if it gets disturbed it leaks. picked up my last container at Advance auto parts, but I bet, AL at American Sport Bike has some.

Oh, and check all the Grounds under the tank. My frends X1 got flaky untill we found the bad main ground busted and making partial contact. Also data log! If its fuel you will see it in the logs going lean. If its spark you should see that in the logs also. A buddy close with the same bike would be the most help. Swap coil, tank, ECM and such to see what makes the change.

(Message edited by Drhacknstine on September 12, 2009)
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Edgar333
Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

koo thanks, ill look for it at my local autoparts stores,
i do have a log of when its acting up but im not sure i know how to read it.
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Drhacknstine
Posted on Sunday, September 13, 2009 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Post it. Lay your hand on the table and let it speak for it's self.
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Edgar333
Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i couldnt find hylomar at kragen or autozone,i got some FORM A GASKET 2, and it DIDNT WORK!!! i still have a intake leak!!!

i dont think im putting in wrong? im gonna look for some better stuff. and seal the S**T out of it
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Drhacknstine
Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

At least you Know where the problem is. Did ya check American Sport Bike? Its spec' in the factory service manual,
"Cylinder head breather bolts, torque to 10-15 ft-lbs, Notes/sealant Hylomar" So there is probably a HD part number for it. Although a $20 dollar tube will end up costing ya $40. Permatex has said it was discontinuing Holymar(they didnt like paying the Brits to use their patent) and would only supply it to race teams, on a limited basis.

On another note, Are you having alignment problems with the manifold, causing to large of a gap? Hylomar will NOT span a large gap. But you can use it in place of a paper side cover gasket and never have a leak.

Or
http://www.hylomar-usa.com/

Click on the ordering info.
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Kyrocket
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If you can get your hands on some 3M 800 it's an industrial sealant, same thing the FSM calls for to glue the cases together if you ever have to split them. I had to order mine from Fastenal, they got it in a couple of days and it seems to be some good stuff.
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Kalali
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Where is the "gap" that you are trying to seal with a sealant? Or are you planning to put the sealant right around the intake seals before tightening it all up?
The reason I am asking is that my intake sticks out about 1/4" from the flange (which houses the seal) and I have no leaks. Just wondering.
On a related note, my 99-00 X1 FSM says that the 01-02 X1s have the seal and the flange as one integrated plastic piece. Is this supposed to be a better design?
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Jim2
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I recently bought a tube of Hylomar packaged by Permatex at an O'Reilly autoparts store. Even if it is discontinued by Permatex it may be still hanging on some shelves. I looked at four different autoparts stores before I found it. I'm lucky to have many to choose from.
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Preybird1
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Edgar333

I would highly recommend you load up that bike and take it down to JTS performance in sonoma. They will fix it! Here is there website http://www.jtsperformance.com/
They are a sponsor here and do damn good work.
That is my X1 on there site!!!
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Edgar333
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 01:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

6.5hrs??? there is a buell shop in simivalley, which is 30minutes from me.
i really want to fix it my self, but i may have to swallow my pride and open my wallet.
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Preybird1
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would do it! I don't care about the 6.5 hours you would love to meet Terry and Jim...Great guys!!
I drove up to Colorado 7+ hrs to have my motor built and then i shipped the whole bike down there for custom mapping\tuning.

I recently had the pleasure of selling terry a tire for the RV, When he was here for the land speed record runs Here at the Bonneville salt flats a couple weeks back!

My bike's motor was built and then tuned by 2 of the best shop's in the business and also both shops are land speed record holder's, And Land speed record racers
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Edgar333
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

take 3 and no progress, i dont think i could seal this leak if my life depended on it!!!
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Preybird1
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't think this is the intake seals anymore, They are not that hard to install. Did you spray some carb clean or brake kleen on them while it was running to see if there was a change in idle....If not try that again before doing this any more. Dam if i lived by you, I would come over and try and help you fix it.
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Edgar333
Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 01:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

as soon as i spary carb cleaner on them, the idle drop ,if i keep sparying it will stall.

i must be doing something wrong,does any one have a pic of how things go,(from a manual)?
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Edgar333
Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

here are some pics of what it looked like last and somehow its still stalling when i spary(w/carb/cleaner) the intake manifold right where it meets the heads

im throwing in the towel and taking it to someone.
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Kalali
Posted on Friday, September 18, 2009 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Wow, you sure did put a lot of crap (sorry meant sealer)on that thing...How does the intake tube fit into the flange? Does it slide in/out easily? It should be a really tight fit.
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Jramsey
Posted on Friday, September 18, 2009 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Looking at the first pic it looks like the flange isn't flush against the port on the rear head, kinda hard to tell tho with all that hookempuckey smeared all over.

RTV @ rubber seals = leaks, the H-D intake and its seals are a compliance fitting, as the motor heats up and expands the heads move apart and the manifold must be able to "slip" in the seals.
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Drhacknstine
Posted on Friday, September 18, 2009 - 11:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If those flanges don't suck down flush on the head, THERE IS THE PROBLEM! Check the picture on the "oil leak from rear cyl" thread, it shows how they should look. Are they warped or hanging up on the manifold?

Ps give up with the silicone. It never will work well on V-Twin power. Leave that stuff for the farmers with old chevy trucks , or Kids with rice grinder cars with fart pipes.

(Message edited by Drhacknstine on September 18, 2009)
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Edgar333
Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 02:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i couldnt find that thread
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 09:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is that thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/497088.html?1253379164
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Edgar333
Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 01:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i got another set of seals today, im not sure if i should try to put them in again or find someone to do it.
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Smoke
Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

there is a trick to installing the intake manifold to the heads. i haven't done one lately but make sure that the o-rings go down smoothly with the manifold flanges(i usually grease them up with white grease or wheel bearing grease)and then tighten the bolts all evenly by alternately tightening them while you watch for everything to go flush smoothly and evenly.
good luck,
tim
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