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Oldog
Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

under max acceleration my bike is shuddering seriously. new conti road attack
new belt

recently rebuilt showa shock

I believe its wheel hop

I think altering the damping setting of the shock may help not sure any one else have this?
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Wheel hop? hhmm. Stupid question....your sure it not a balance or out of round tire.
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Texastechx1
Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

WHEEL HOP?!?!?!?!?!

i would check that shock... doesn't sound like the rebuild went very well...
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 09:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

the prior tire did not hop, same shock post rebuild..

balance: bike is stable with no vibes at 100+ mph

new conti, road atack, new drive belt

Russ, out of round I need to check that I presume I can do that on a stand? say using a pointer?

I plan on readjusting the new belt

btw on the previous belt failure, the fabric on the belt face was fretting in the bottom of the tooth valley, it appears that a tooth ripped on the loadad side and pulled off starting at that point in the valley.

last night I would allow the clutch out to take up the slack, I would feel a clunk, then hammer the throttle when moving the bike shook under hard accel in 1st & second if I hit a bump i felt short periods of vibes

I could get the wiggle exiting a corner on the gas, I won't rule out the shock
at times I could get the hop/wiggle in third gear

its consistant IF I hammer the throttle when the drive line is under heavy load it shakes, I have had this before, it seems to be tire related

38 psi in the tire (rear)
shock is supposed to be set for normal riding
the belt may be excessivly slack

I will check for round / inflation
shock settings and action (look for leaks)
retension the belt

stay tuned
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If no problems found with missing teeth on either pulley, and no out of round business with the tire, it would seem to be time to inspect the primary drive and clutch. Still have the 'grenade' plate?

Hope this helps, Dave
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hi Dave
the plate is gone, [ I coined the terms grenade plate ]
the tire was inflated to 38 psi, the manufactuers site
calls for 42psi (2.9 bar!)

Comments Russ?
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Your belt might be a tad loose. My S2 and M2 kind of did the same thing.
I had the belts just a bit too much "scary" loose.

since I started using Buellistic's method, no problems...

Brad
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Mmmi_grad
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

loose belt can cause it but Oldog knows about that. Sounds like tire. i use a michilin pilot road 2 dual compound,If the tire is cold it can roll over or slip a little because of the dual compound but its no big deal and goes away quick enough, no cons, all pros.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/28/394/1098 7/ITEM/Michelin-Pilot-Road-2-Rear-Tire.aspx
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 01:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mike,
good point.
I had some old Dunlop 205's that were scary that way too. Forgot about that one.
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Preybird1
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Still sounds like the tire, I run my conti race attack and my conti road attack 2-3 psi under the max printed on the tire. I have seen brand new tires that are not round and even some that have a lateral problem where the tread actually moves sideways just a hair. You never know what your going to get with a tire when you buy it. With that said it could be a combination of new tire on old shock setting that isn't working with the new tire. But back to the tire again if the tire requires to much weight it would be considered a bad tire and be sent back also. This is the only reason i like a balance machine, You can see exactly how much weight the tire will need. It will also show the exact spot of the problem.

I would say adjust the shock like you said and just test it until you are sure what it is.
I have a new tire in the mail a conti race attack endurance rear. And i have a new works shock and will test the old shock setting with a new tire and see what happens

I got my tire from https://josmotorsports.com/cart/ $199.99 is a killer price for this tire. I searched the net for 2 hours and found this small site!

I love the fact you can buy slicks also.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Good points, I am off to

check several things and tighten the belt

Pressure is called out at 2.9 bar (42 psi) i have it set at 38

I will check run out

I also plan on resetting the shock adjustments to standard ride settings and examining it closley,

the belt will be set to about 1.87" ~ 2" slack ( just enough to touch the arm mid run bottom. )

thanks for the inputs all, I am going to check some other things too, ( not related to this issue )

I will post up tonight..
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Kalali
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I am sure you know this already but like someone said before, always check the last change you made to the bike. If it started right after the belt change or tire change then that's where I would start. This logic has consistently worked for me...
May be you were the one who said this in the first place or Al at American Sport Bike. Not sure but I read it here.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I was having wheel hop issues under max acceleration not too long ago.. after checking to be sure my belt was tight enough (it was) I played with the rear shock settings and got all of the hop to go away.

IIRC I had to harden both the compression and rebound. The bike feels better in a corner now too.
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Oldog
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 12:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I did not get every thing I wanted done
but the belt was likely the culpret, I took about .060" on the axle the belt can still touch the arm but more force is required.
Hop is gone I whaled on it several times
no issues,

my conclusion the bloody belt was too loose..
now lets figure out the lurch on launch..

I put the race ecm back on the bike tonight
it seems to be running a bit lean on the stocker.

info

at 40958 miles about 2k running on the fresh top end, 3&5 revolution compression is perfect, the battery was getting weak so the max numbers are a bit off 179 front, 170 rear

on the tire ( back to the hop info )
rim runout (rear) .008" side to side
...................015 radial
tire radial runout .040" ( just over 1mm ) with one marked "low spot"

I thightened the primary chain a fair amount as there was serious crunchy noises comming from the case. just a little whirr now and again, thanks for the inputs,

I did not get to adjusting the shock..

the bloody belt was the last thing I altered,
I should have known better well live and learn

(Message edited by oldog on August 24, 2009)
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Mmmi_grad
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I hate when that happens to me too!! Oldog... hasnt Buellistic sent you his ultra in depth direct reaction of inaction related to the problem of belt adjustment analysis??? If not check it out. I am still on a 2 1/2" slack but next time im going to try it his way.

Wow, .008" is a surprise. Not horrible, there is worse. Next time you wana mess with your runout and want to spend $130.00 you could give Ron a call at http://www.framestraightsystem.com
Both of my wheels have been retrued by him. Best to do this when racing season is over or make him commit to a date first.




(Message edited by mmmi_grad on August 24, 2009)
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Jramsey
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 06:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The average human hair measures .002


.008 is way less thickness than the average .011 thick business card.


FSM states the max. acceptable "tire" runout is.060 radially and .080 laterally.
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Mmmi_grad
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

FSM isnt riding the bike, FSM can have its acceptable, Ill keep the ridable. Thats just always my 2 cents.
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Drhacknstine
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 08:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ron is on my list! I have my original rear wheel the PO let a bearing seize in. Figured Ron could weld it, bushing it or Resize the one way or another.
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Jramsey
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I myself would drive anywhere in the lower 48 to see a motorcycle rim spin at the "not horrible, there is worse" .008
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