| Author | Message | ||
     Mc_shifty |
Hey Everyone. I'm new around here, and tried a search for this question, but couldn't find an answer. I bought a 95 S2 this spring, kinda stumbled on it, had no idea about Buells, but it was cheap for the miles that were on it, 9000, and was/is in really good shape. I LOVE this bike. I don't even want to admit to the metric bike I was riding before. Anyway, on to my question... The bike runs great overall, until I get to a steady rpm around 3000. Then it develops an annoying miss. Not during acceleration or deceleration, or at any other rev range. Anyone know what is causing this? Any information you have would be really appreciated. Thanks, Ryan | ||
| Killswitch1982 |
Sounds like your jetting may be off a little. I could be wrong but every time I have had something like that happen to a carb'd vehicle of mine it was because the tuning/jetting was off slightly. | ||
| Ratbuell |
What engine mods? What exhaust? If it's stock, you should be fine with a 45/185 and 2.5 turns out on the mix screw. Aftermarket muffler, 45/190 seems to work best (with the same 2.5 turns out). Looking at your profile, your brakelight staying on is probably your front brake switch. If you look, it's 2 main pieces on the bar - the lever housing/perch, and the switch housing. If the 2 are not lined up with each other, the brakelight switch in the lever can get stuck. Ask me how I know. Loosen the switch housing, wiggle it a little, put it where it lines up and retorque. Light might be fixed. Otherwise, you have a bad pressure switch at the rear lever. If you need part numbers, let me know. Welcome to the sickness! | ||
| Mc_shifty |
Actually, I figured out the brakelight problem I was having earlier, using this forum to start troubleshooting. But you were right on, and the switch plunger/paddle looking thing that holds the switch in was bent out away from the switch. I haven't got a clue how it got bent, but its fixed now, I bent it back to straight, and the brakelights work correctly again. I will have to do some investigating on the engine/carb mods. The exhaust looks stock back to a V&H SSR2 carbon fiber muffler. The intake looks stock with a K&N filter, but I haven't dug into it to the carb yet. Edit: The carb looks stock, there is the bar and shield on the body. The cover says Stockers/ House of power, and has a wasp with a skull head and a lightning bolt on it. Dont know if that is stock or not, or if it helps at all. (Message edited by Mc_Shifty on August 23, 2009) | ||
| Ratbuell |
The carb sounds like modified stock. If it has a cap on it that's round with 4 screws at the 'corners', it's a CV. The house of power thing...says to me that someone reworked it. Sometime. With something. If you need help with the removal procedure (it's very basic) just ask. Sounds like an easy fix. My guess is, you're going to find a 42 slow jet in there. | ||
| Maru |
First thing check for air leaks at the carb. | ||
| Mc_shifty |
Yeah, air leaks. I've got 'em. Just about everything in the intake is cracked or broken. Its time for new stuff. Should I go with stock replacements or aftermarket stuff? I am a fan of the stock looks of the bike, I kinda wanted to keep that look. I am pretty sure that the carb was re-worked. I got a little background info on the original owner, and he and his family modified intakes and exhaust on every bike they owned. Along with a few other performance oriented upgrades. This bike was bought here in Idaho, and has stayed in the same area, so I think it was originally jetted correctly for the altitude range. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've had good luck with OEM intake seals (all 3 - one to each head, and the boot for carb-to-intake). I smear them with engine oil before install to prevent bunching/pinching/tearing, and I've even put a small bead of RTV on the end of the intake before putting the carb boot on, so that next time I remove the carb the boot stays attached to the intake. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Skip the oil as a seal lube and pick up a tube of Silglide (sp?) from your local Napa dealer. Cheap, less the $5 IIRC. It's made for this type of application. The seals last longer too! A tube will last a LONG time. | ||
| Mc_shifty |
Thanks Everyone for the suggestions, I'm going to get the seals today and put them on tonight. Ryan |
