| Author | Message | ||
     Scottorious |
i just wonder if its bad to run my supertrapp with no discs for a while just because i like the sound....i'll most likely put the discs back in but in the mean time i dont want to ruin anything | ||
| Skntpig |
You can buy an open end cap. It will probably just run worse and loose midrange torque. It will act like drag pipes on a sportster that make power at the top and run like crap down low and midrange. Hard to tune and will prolly pop on downrev. | ||
| Easy_rider |
I have the Buell version with an open end cap. I kept trying to remove discs to quiet it down. Finally got frustrated and took them all out. Didn't change it all that much, no terrible difference in power that I noted. No pops. Just a rattier sound. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Buy the open end cap and use the disks. I like the discs in, I use 12 and an open end cap. The top end is awesome! low end is not bad at all. Down shift at a high rpm and listen.....If it pops that is not good and there is a problem. | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
When you say " there is a problem " what do you mean? I have 15 disk with a small hole in my end cap. I have less popping once I plugged the hole. Is this a tuning issue? | ||
| Skntpig |
Popping is just a lean condition. Most likely can be tuned with air fuel screw or shimming needle. More exhaust out easier = more fuel needed. Google CV jetting or sportster carb jetting. | ||
| Preybird1 |
+1 to what skntpig said. | ||
| Skntpig |
You can also check your exhaust to make sure it's sealing at the head. You can put baby powder where they mount together and then start it. You will see the powder move if it's leaking. If you need a gasket get the Screaming Eagle part that is flat, not the tapered stock one. | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
Thanks... I will try the baby powder to see today if its leaking. I know I've got a rusted nut on the front I couldn't get off the other day while replacing the starter gasket. I was rereading what Preybird1 said about the popping. I don't recall if it pops when down shifting at a high RPM. It does while I'm slowing down but not when I get into her. Like coming into a curve I like to downshift and get into the throttle. She sticks better..But no popping then. I was wondering if there are any adjustments that could be made without jetting the stock CV-40 I still want to rejet her some time, but not at this time. | ||
| Not_purple_s2 |
I ran an open supertrapp on my S2 for a while. I then put on a Vance and Hines and it ran MUCH better. Plus I really like the more mellow rumble of the V&H over the open pipe. | ||
| Skntpig |
You can try the air fuel screw. It is on the bottom of the carb. Stock it has a small thin cap over it. You just have to take a small drill bit and let it pierce the cap and then pop it out. You might be able to do it by hand with a vice grip holding the drill bit. I haven't ever tried to do this with the carb on. Once you get to it you turn the airscrew all the way in SOFTLY. Don't back it down too hard, just barely seat it. Then 2.5 turns out for a starting point. Then fine tune from there only a max of 1/4 turn at a time then ride to see if it runs better or not. Popping can also come from intake seals. These should be changed every 2 years regardless of what the manual states. You can check these by spraying WD-40 or Carb cleaner on where each side meets the head as the bike is running. If it changes RPM up or down even slightly you have a leak. Search intake boots for install info. Or let us know you failed that test and I will give you the install tricks. | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
OK...Out the door I went, Baby Powder and WD-40 in hand... The baby powder was a little tricky. I did how ever manage to get it in the right spot. It passed the baby powder test. It rumbled a lot of it off but didn't blow any... In doing the WD-40 test I noticed a screw at the bottom of the carb. Is this the screw you were talking about?  OH Yeah...It passsed the WD-40 test also... Thanks |
