| Author | Message | ||
     Scottorious |
so im actually home from afghanistan and can actually report about x1 issues from home and looking at my bike. The first is the front brake rotor wiggles around quite a bit but the mounting hardware seems to be as tight as i can get it and it still wiggles. also how tight is the rear belt supposed to be and what is the procedure for tightening it? | ||
| Hootowl |
The rotor floats on the mounting hardware. As they wear, it'll loosen up and start rattling. Doesn't affect the braking power available, just annoying. I bought a 2000 rotor a few years ago. Problem solved. The belt should not be tight at any point in the swingarm's arc. Before you tighten the axle nut, measure from the axle to the rear isolator bolts. Make sure you come up with the same distance on both sides. If they're different, it'll put more tension on one edge of the belt than the other, leading to premature belt failure. | ||
| Oldog |
Scott, 1st WELCOME HOME ! 2nd the disk it self floats on the carrier ( that bolts to the hub ) if the carrirer is loose on the hub, removal and inspection is top priority! to determine why. the carrier should bolt flat to the hub, it sounds like the bolts may be to long and are hitting bottom , OR they are not the correct type, some bikes used button head screws, others used Flat head (countersunk) the carrier is clamped by the bolts to the hub, untill this is corrected dont ride your bike its not safe, the common wisdom it that disk mounting bolts are replaced when removed. American Sport Bike carries these parts (the correct ones) and can assist The belt should be "scarry loose" more realisticaly with the rear suspension unloaded it should have enough play to touch the swingarm just forward of the lower guard. [edit ] The Factory specifies that the axle position can be checked by measuring between the front edge of the adjuster pocket, and the axle carrier the allowable variation left / right .015" (1/64) a set of cheap dial calipers works well here. and again WELCOME HOME. (Message edited by oldog on July 29, 2009) | ||
| Scottorious |
the brake issue is the actual rotor itself is wobbly on the rotor hub. the 6 fasteners on the rotor dont seem to hold it tight enough on the hub. I dont see those exact parts on americansportbike.com | ||
| Oldog |
Those are "bobbins" the older brakes were replaceable, the newer ones are not, they act as floating spacers and allow the disk to move side to side, it may move a small amount front to back but not much excessive play indicates worn parts. BTW the hub i am refering to above is the wheel hub. | ||
| Hootowl |
Someone posted in a previous thread that they found that the axle adjustment pockets were not as accurate as using the isolator bolts as a reference. YMMV. | ||
| Oldog |
Hoot, the pockets are machined relative to the bearing race bores for the arm bearings, that measurement is precise VS trying to measure to the middle of the bolts | ||
| Hootowl |
I'm aware of that. But the belt is attached to the engine also, not just the rear sprocket, and this method takes the swingarm and mounting block into account, not just the swingarm. Like I said, it has been argued that it is a more accurate method. You can do what you want. I don't worry about it all that much, I was just trying to give the best advice I knew. Referencing the swingarm is probably just as good. | ||
| Oldog |
not trying to be a boor here, please think about what you just typed. using the bolts does not eliminate any possible inaccuracys, as the bolts are positioned by the block, ( via some turned pins ) if its off the whole deal is off either way.. you have introduced several more errors. the small measurement using calipers is easiest, VS trying to do this with a tape or some other insturment the allowable variance .015" ( the thickness of about 5 sheets of paper ) total variation the belt being tight on one or the other side because of misalignment +2 It occuurs to me that the practice started because the Japanese welded their swing arms together, and there were variations in the positions of the marks, using a tape to measure the distance to the bolt was better than the stamped in marks provided to us at that time. | ||
| Hootowl |
The isolators bolts go into the swingarm mounting point, bolted to the engine cases. There is not a concentric adjustment there. This measurement takes nearly the entire belt travel path into account. Like I said, it has been argued that this is a more accurate method. Take it or leave it. I don't have any emotional investment in it. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Scott, welcome back and thanks for your service. Profile says you have a 06 Ss. What year is your X1? | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Here's mine. As loose as you can run it is best IMO, as long as you never feel it skipping teeth. | ||
| Kalali |
Leave it is as loose as PK suggests and check after a good ride while sitting on it. You will be surprised how tight it gets. No way to skip a tooth. That's how I have mine. | ||
| Tdman77 |
Scott, Welcome home!! 2nd Oldog here. The rotor should have some play but not excessive. Check to see if there are any old school Bullers in your area and see if you can check out their bike. And PK is right on with the belt adjustment. Crazy loose!!!!! Thanks for your service. |
