| Author | Message | ||
     Brinnutz |
Okey doke..Finally starting the rebuild process thanks to some Badwebbers. Jim, Russ, Ross... Anyways, just replaced my oil pump drive gear with the updated bronze one for future proofing... Well, I'm re-installing and am wondering what sort of loc-tite to use. Red I am guessing??? Or none? There was definitely something on there before but couldn't tell, I cleaned it out of all the threads. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Oh, and I'm sitting here at the computer waiting, so I can go back in the garage and finish up that side of the motor. | ||
| 14d |
FSM calls for red loctite and 35-45 ft/lbs for my 2000 X1. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Don't know why I couldn't find it in the FSM...thanks man! | ||
| 14d |
np, mine almost fell open to it since i was reading it in preparation for swapping out the gear myself. Should be out of this damn wheel chair in a couple weeks and can start wrenching on it   | ||
| Brinnutz |
What happened? Did I miss something?!?!? | ||
| 14d |
Nah I don't think I really mentioned it on here. I've been on the DL for a couple months now, shattered both my heels at the end of may. Got laid off and was out inebriated hiking, tried to jump over a bigass ditch. Lesson: always look before you leap, especially if it's dark out. And don't listen to you dumb*ss friends. Whole thing was completely avoidable and stupid, but nothing I can do about that now. 16 screws, some titanium plates and 2 months later I'm just learning to walk again. Should be upgrading to a walker within a couple weeks, but in the mean time I have mastered wheelies in this chair. At this point I think I miss my buell more than sex. | ||
| Akbuell |
Same spec's in my '01 manual. Listed in the gearcase cover and cam gears chapter. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Damn, jumping over a ditch drunk...Always comes out well! NOT. Glad you're ok, for the most part. But now you have Titanium heels, that's cool. =) DRAGGIN' HEELS...lol Wheelies in wheelchairs are fun too! Try going down stairs doing a wheelie..hehe Anyways, this is the first step of progress for this project now. I think now that I'm on the downslope, it's going to be more working and less slacking on this...Hoping for less than a month and it'll be ridable. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Brinnutz, do a search on (oilpump and bronze oilpump drive gear) When I did mine a few months ago I was told to almost double the torque on my pinion nut! I forget the number I was given but it was much more than the manuel said. Needless to say I went with the manuel specs and red loctite because I was already buttoned up when I got the post. So far about 1000 miles no problem with the bronze gear and 2007 upgraded pump. | ||
| Brinnutz |
I did it just pas the FSM torque to about 45 ft/lbs and red loctite. William, did you blue or red loctite the oil pump bolts. I was thinking red. =) | ||
| Oldog |
Brin the connecting bolts holding the oil pump on the motor - Blue you may want to take it off some time, easier with blue. | ||
| 14d |
Yeah definitely NOT a good idea. At least I'm young and heal fairly quickly. I've got a nice little box of goodies, and will be ordering a penske soon (springs and gold valving for the front will have to wait a bit though). She'll be nice and purty and running good when I am able to ride (hopefully about 2 months, we'll see if the loctited the screws lol). When you pulled the cam cover did the cams come with it? I read something about using a putty knife to keep them in, or is it easier to just realign them if they do fall out. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have it on good authority that strategic use of a putty knife can keep them in the case. When I did my M2, I didn't even need the putty knife, they just stayed there (dumb luck I guess). BUT, you will then have a difficult time getting the cover back on without "forcing it". I tried, and it was taking more force then I was willing to apply. I also have it on GOOD authority (Al Lighton) that doing it this way puts an awful big load on the cam bushings, which aren't the sorts of things you want screwed up. The right way to do it isn't much harder then the wrong way to do it... rotate the crank so the rear cylinder is at TDC (unloading those cams) and pop off the front rocker box (unloading those cams). On an XB, you are going to have to rotate the motor to get the header off and on anyway, so at that point you are only a few screws from pulling one rocker box cover anyway. | ||
| 14d |
I'll have the rockers off to replace some leaky gaskets, so that will be no problem. Did you pull the lifters when you did it? I was thinking about putting some one piece billet push rod bases on while I'm at since I'll be halfway there... | ||
| Brinnutz |
And that's how it starts... "While I'm in that far." Kyle, I "might" have a New Works shock up for sale soon... Jim, tool worked like a charm...Thanks again! | ||
| 14d |
16.7" fully adjustable? If so lemme know... | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Brinnutz, I used anti seize on the pump and cover bolts. I remember the bolts almost stripped because they were stuck. It took a lot of effort too back the bolts all the way out. Aluminum and steel...not happy together! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Nope, no need to mess with lifters. Once the rocker box is off, all the tension is released. You aren't taking the head off either... it stays attached, so no messing with head gaskets or anything. | ||
| Oldog |
Brin how is the job Going? | ||
| Brinnutz |
It's going...I have to run and get Anti-Seize for the Oil Pump bolts, get stainless braided lines. I'm currently trying to find where to buy a Piston Ring filer so I can gap my rings correctly. But I'm not finding one locally that is less than $100. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Well, after searching online, I found one that "should" be here tomorrow or Saturday... Shop in Illinois had one for $41.02 shipped. Only going to use it once I bet...Well, maybe I'll hang onto it since my piston rings will go out eventually with these nikasil cylinders... | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Just remember, too much gap is better than too little!!! Than bad things can happen  |
