| Author | Message | ||
     Tsm81xtreme |
Okay Guys, I am going to buy a new front rotor today for my Buell X1 01' model. I am thinking about the EBC Pro-lite rotor, or the EBC Race rotor. Does anyone have any comments on these items. Thanks Matt Tully | ||
| Skntpig |
I'm in the same boat Matt. I also like the Ferrodo. Here is a little info on a thread I started. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/477162.html?1247710941 | ||
| Sfmc_x1 |
I have EBC front and back on my X1... I have the regular pro-lite or standard EBC upgrade for the front... not the uber race version with the anodized carrier and anodized buttons. I always use double H sintered compound pads. I was prompted to do the upgrade after the original front rotor warped (1 stopie). And for that reason I've never done a stopie on the Buell since. The performance over stock (front)rotors is worth the money spent. I chose EBC for price and availability (used to work in a shop) and experience with the product on my race bike. Cant say anything positive about the rear EBC rotor/HH rear pad combo. @ 15K miles(with the rotors) I dont use the rears unless I have a passenger, the pads have more than half the meat they started with, but the rotor is pretty chewed up... probably from prying the pads apart with a screwdriver when changing rear tires over the years. IMO I felt no gained improvement or performance from uprgading the rears. The front is prone to rust on the rotor itself and the counter-sunk bolts I had to purchase to mount it. Other that that I'm very happy with the front EBC. Good luck with your purchase. | ||
| Tsm81xtreme |
sfmc_x1, so i am going to have to get different bolts to mount the pro-lite front rotor. I cant use the regular factory bolts. Thanks for the info, Matt Tully | ||
| Skntpig |
You can get the rotor and correct bolts for the EBC from AmericanSportbike.com. Call and talk to Al or his wife Joan. Wonderful folks that support the forum and have plenty of experience with Buells. I would use new bolts even if your old ones fit. Some rotors need a countersunk that fit flush and most aftermarket rotors use a pan head. Take a few pics of the one you choose. | ||
| Tsm81xtreme |
I sure will Skntpig, thanks for the help, see ya. | ||
| Sfmc_x1 |
Thats correct... The EBC's required CounterSunk Bolts... Where as the OEM Rotor is held on by... I forget the style... not shouldered/button head bolts... But yes, You'll need new bolts for the EBC. | ||
| 14d |
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-c atshow/x1brakes.html Each rotor tells you what bolts are needed with it. | ||
| Guell |
Running the ebc race on the bike, love it | ||
| Al_lighton |
Note that there are a few versions of the EBC ProLite Rotor. The MD719RS used flat head (countersunk)screws, and it is the one we used to carry. But the MD734RS is otherwise identical, but is c-bored instead of C-sink for using Button head bolts. That is the EBC rotor we carry now, though I can get the other if someone wants it instead. It means that you have to use the more expensive Button head screws, but it's worth it. Bolt patterns with Countersunk screws pretty much guarantee that ONE screw (the first one tightened) will be exactly aligned, and the others won't. This causes the head to bind as it seats, which results in a thread torque that DOESN'T resolve to a particular amount of bolt stretch. It makes for a more fatigue prone joint, and bolts that are very difficult to remove when corrosion is added. That's why it always sucks to remove pre-2000 rotors. The racing versions of these rotors (blue carrier, not silver) feature removeable buttons. I don't recommend this one for most applications. Al | ||
| Al_lighton |
But if it were me, I'd probably get the Ferodo....... Al | ||
| Limitedx1 |
Im running braking wavy rotors front and back with ebc double h pads, no complaints just STOP! | ||
| Eshardball |
Ditto on the Braking wave rotor out front & Double H pads. Great combination on my S1. It is a one finger brake with great feedback. | ||
| Skntpig |
Al, I'm curious as to why you said Ferodo. It looks nice but doesn't the iron of the EBC provide more friction? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Plain iron or steel does have a higher coefficient of friction with the right pad material. For race use, I'd consider it. But it rusts in the real world, and when you grind rust into the pad surfaces, I'm not so sure the advantage is there. It looks uglier too. I've been told that it's not a good idea to run sintered pads on a plain iron or steel rotor. I can't recall the reason. Fact is, I run the Lyndall non-sintered pads anyway. So that particular point isn't a huge driver for me. But it would be for some. And I'm not sure that a race compound sintered pad on stainless has a lower friction coefficient than the best of non-sintered pads on plain steel. Al | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
I'm running a Ferodo front rotor, very happy it with now that I'm using Ferodo ST pads. |
