| Author | Message | ||
     Killswitch1982 |
Will the current indicator lights retrofit onto my '95 S2?I'm wanting something a little different. | ||
| F_skinner |
Killswitch1982, there are a lot of options when it comes to tun signals. I used the current ones on my S1W but had to drill the mounting hole a bit. Whatever you do make sure you keep your old ones so you can use them again if you need to. American Sport Bike is you friend when it comes to parts for your classic bike. Frank | ||
| Buellish |
I've been running XB signals on the front of my S2 for a couple of years now,with no mods. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Frank. Doesn't the S1 have a traditional UJB signal switch (one switch on the left control that pushes left or right)? If so, it uses a standard car-type flasher. The one-on-each-handlebar Harley signal light system has its own (very expensive) flasher unit that requires that the bulbs used be of a certain wattage. Otherwise you have to buy a Badlander electronic do-hicky($80) to bleed off some extra current. I had funky little bullet signals on the Sportster that required that. | ||
| F_skinner |
Eric, yes that is the one a normal S1 uses. Mine however has XB controls. I actually had the small turn signals from American Sport Bike but the vibration in the rear of the bike shook so bad the bulbs broke. I now have XB lights on the rear and the small ones on the front. The S2 (Harley ones) are just as you described. It the wattage is too low or too high it will cause a low light or low life condition for the signals. Buellish is dead on, I checked the S2 holes today and they are much bigger than the S1 mounting holes. It was a white bike day today.   | ||
| Buellish |
I have used both generic aftermarket and XB signals,without concern for wattage,with no problem.Been doing it for 9 1/2 years. That is a beautiful S2 Frank.The Ice White Pearl has long been my favorite S2 color. (Message edited by buellish on July 18, 2009) | ||
| F_skinner |
Thanks Buellish. I do not ride that one near enough. My favorite is the Quicksilver Metallic S2-T but I really like the Ice white pearl and yellow jacket pearl as well. I think, and I could be wrong, what Eric was talking about was those super tiny led lights that a lot of the HD guys used. What would happen it they had very little electron draw that would confuse the relay and they would just stay on without blinking. In the early 90s Badlands marketed a box that would drop the draw to allow the blinkers to blink. It is a couple of resisters and capacitors that they marketed at 80 dollars. I have not had a problem with any modern day bulb. | ||
| S2pengy |
The S2 stock turnsignals are marked 10 watt, spotted that while changing some out this week... I had 2 turnsignal stocks on the S2 and 2 on the S2t break this last week.... Weird don't know if it was heat or age or what... Also found the potting compound melted out of the ignition sensor on the S2t but it was still working... | ||
| Ratbuell |
I don't think the HD controls require a certain *voltage*. It's *resistance*. Same with the UJM/later tuber signals. They're a load-based flasher, not time-based. It's a safety feature introduced by automakers decades ago to alert people to a burned out turn signal. Not enough resistance (i.e. open circuit, otherwise known as a dead bulb or an LED) and it'll flash doubletime (original ones were steady-on, like my '72 Plymouth, but that was less effective so it was changed). The later flashers, that work with LEDs, are *time*-based flashers and require only input voltage to get a constant flash rate. The complexity of the HD box is that it contains not only turn signals (2 button input), but also four way flashers (same 2 buttons, different engagement pattern) and a distance-cancel feature that takes input from the vehicle speed sensor and computes it into an "its time to cancel" function. UJMs take the easy way out - how does your car signal work? Same switch, either up (right) or down (left). Manual cancel, facilitated by a turning steering column with a notch or post to trigger the cancellation. Long story short (too late, I know) - ANY bulb signal will work on any bulb-signal-system. An LED signal will require a switch to a different flasher, or the addition of a resistor either inline with the signal or attached to the box itself. |
