| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
Well, at 25k (and *I've* never done anything with it since I've owned it), the front end on my S2 is starting to pogo. Just a bit...but I've been noticing more and more the last few weeks. Stock (AFAIK) WP Roma forks. What's the consensus? Stock rebuild? Gold valve kit? Different springs (I go around 200 in riding gear)? I don't want racetrack handling...just stable and responsive (and if I could ditch some of the brake dive, I'll take that too), and comfortable on the wrists for longer rides. I figure at the next service, get the fluid in 'em changed out, and any upgrades done.... | ||
| Phelan |
I'd recommend a RaceTech rebuild. I plan on doing this as well, but I don't know if I want to do it to the stockers or some S3 WP forks. I'd like to lower the front end a couple inches, but I like all of the adjustments of the stock forks. If I can get it done, I'll shorten the stock forks 2". | ||
| Ratbuell |
My problem is I need to *lengthen* the forks by a couple MM. Or figure a way to lower the rear ride height - either way, I'm a bit twitchy right off-center. I'd like to slow the tip-in just a hair.... | ||
| Easy_rider |
I'm afraid I have no answers and lots of questions... I rebuilt mine without problems. Of course, they haven't moved three inches since then, so it may be too early to report no problems. I'm not sure what would cause the pogo. It may be that new fluid would take care of most of your problems. Since that's relatively cheap, I'd try that first. A spring upgrade may be the next option, the number of miles on the springs along with whatever weight the designers had in mind may be affecting the brake dive. I thought about the gold valve, but decided at that price it must be intended for the guys on the track. I'm a bit twitchy right off-center. Tires or bearings? I wouldn't think the forks would be as big of a contributor. I'd like to see someone smarter correct me if I'm wrong. What's the difference between the S2 WP and the S3 WP? | ||
| F_skinner |
Joe, you need to change the fork oil. I would go with the Gold Valve kit. | ||
| Phelan |
The S3 WP forks are not ROMAs, and they are between 2" and 4" shorter, but they don't have all of the individual adjustments of the WP ROMA S2 forks. I'd rather find a way to shorten the ROMAs and keep the adjustments, and spring them properly for my weight (aka stiffer), along with gold valves. I don't know if I need the gold valves or not, but if I put that much work into having the forks rebuilt I'd rather drop the extra coin and add the gold valves the first time rather than add them later. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Get them upgraded with valving/emulators and the proper spring rate for you. Then get the preload correct. After that get them adjusted properly then re-evaluate the turn in condition. Joe | ||
| Ratbuell |
Tires are in excellent condition (I LOVE my PR2's!), and wheel bearings are a near-daily check (I own a Uly, too...it's a habit). If I dial in too much sag, or ride 2-up, turn in is nice and relaxed. If I run correct sag, it's twitchy. Maybe new springs could help, as they'd hold up the front end better...hmmm.... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Oh, and I know new fork oil will make a world of difference. Just exploring the "while I'm in there" possibilities is all  | ||
| Guell |
What extra adjustments to the romas have over the showas? Just wondering? | ||
| Gowindward |
"I'm a bit twitchy right off-center. Tires or bearings?"They have medications that can help too.  Sorry, I couldn't resist. Sound like the cheap thing to do is change the fork oil and change riding style, by shifting your weight to the rear before turn in. Seems to make a world of difference on a Firebolt. | ||
| Easy_rider |
Joe, I was thinking 'bout the triple tree bearings. It may be worth a torque check. Not likely to help, but it's cheap! When it comes time to pull the forks, I'd at least consider it a time to regrease. | ||
| S2pengy |
There were racing springs available for the early WP forks and I believe they lowered the forks... Old part number 45989-96Y called fork spring set (race kit)... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Neck bearings are only 5k old, personally installed/torqued. And I'm not a wheelie-er. But...can't hurt to check anyway, while the forks are off, when they're off. I think the Works shock is just a hair shorter than a factory shock (like, a couple MM - it's the "right" size though), and that's my ride height issue. I'll try installing the forks, post-rebuild, a little lower in the trees to raise the nose a bit. | ||
| Phelan |
Joe, from what I've read on RaceTech's website, the stock fork springs are rated for 177#. A proper spring rate for your posted weight (200#) would have less sag; possibly enough to fix your tip-in issue. I am about 190 in gear, but I usually carry stuff in my backpack and such, and I'm adding some weight in the fairing with a project (top secret ATM), so I'll be going with the 200# springs as well. I also found out that RaceTech can lower the forks, so I'll be using the stock WP ROMA forks. | ||
| Easy_rider |
BTW, What's a ROMA? | ||
| Ratbuell |
ROMA is the WP fork model that was used on S2. They have seperate compression/rebound adjusters on each fork, as opposed to my S1W - also WP forks - that have one fork with comp adjustment, and the other fork with reb. | ||
| Phelan |
They are also a longer version of the forks used on a nine-time Formula Grand Prix winner, but I can't remember his name. Court could probably tell you or find it; I read it in one of the old S2 brochures. |
