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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through July 10, 2009 » Timing question, 95 S2 « Previous Next »

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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 06:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

OK, is it just me, and my mind making things up on me....or can the VOES be adjusted for amount of total advance?

Background: 95 S2, 25k miles, daily ride for the last year or so, so it's not a stranger to going down the road. 2 changes lately: hot weather, and a change back to 20/50 (from synthetic) to get my rings to seat. My bonehead move, when I put the top end together I never ran regular oil for the fresh rings....it is making a difference, I think about 500 more miles and it'll be good.

Anyway, the bike usually runs awesome. The bike *currently* runs awesome, unless I'm in a high-throttle-opening / low RPM situation (i.e. "I shoulda downshifted"). Now, I get some pinging - for the first time ever.

I don't want to make a major change since it's going back to synthetic as soon as the rings seat up a little better...but I want to fight the pinging. Can the VOES be adjusted? I gotta check my shop manual....either that, or I'll just pull the timing back a hair until I change the fluids back. Gives me a chance to install my sig. series timing cover, lol.
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F_skinner
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Joe, do you have the documentation (the mini build sheet) as well?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If that's the little laminated card with specs on it...yep. That, the box/cover, and the letter to the original owner.
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Sportyeric
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

There is a plug to drill out on the VOES. There is a recommendation to adjust it to kick at a lower, or higher, vacuum level, I forget which. But for your purposes, probably easier to just back off the timing.
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F_skinner
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes, just back off the timing a bit. Seems odd that it would just start doing that Joe.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 07:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Again, I think it's the combo of hotter weather, and my switch from synthetic (cooler running) to dino oil to seat the rings.

We shall see once I go back to synthetic...
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 09:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ratbuell:

"PLEASE" answer these questions:

Where is the timing mark set(static timing) in the timing plug hole(on REGULAR gas it should be in the center on the front cylinder, on HIGH TEST just coming into the rear of the timing plug hole on the front cylinder)???

OEM KEIHIN CV CARB.,how far out from the seat is the idle mixture screw, what is the number on the LOW SPEED JET, the HIGH SPEED JET,and how high do you have the needle raised ???

How "OLD" is the INTAKE SEALS PN 26995-86B and SEAL RING PN 27002-89 ???

What are you gaping the spark plugs at(0.030 in. works good) ???
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F_skinner
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Good things to check.

Don't feel bad Joe. I just spent a couple of hours rebuilding the CV carb on the S1W because it was leaking gas and now it is acting like it is getting no gas. I am sure it is something I screwed up. I have had it with that CV carb on that bike (love them on the S2s). I think it is time for a mikuni. At least it was not shooting gas out like the float bowl was stuck LOL.

I was sweating like a farm animal so I called it a night.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

45/190, stock needle, 2.5 turns. S2 air cleaner, S2 stock header, Buell race muffler adapted to it (2" header, 2.5" muffler). Stock carb. Thunderstorm top end including cams and ignition, personally installed.

Seals are 2 years old, no leaks (tested recently).

I want to say either .028 or .030 gap.

Have to check timing...after I get 2 screws out of my knee tomorrow : )
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 08:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ratbuell:

This is what "i" have found over the years is the SEALS should be replaced at TWO YEARS even if they pass the leak test "AND" if you have a COOLING FAN you then change them at 4 years ...

If you are still using POP RIVETS to hold your COVER,timer, these can be replaced with SCREW,self tapping PN 2662W ...

MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!
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S2pengy
Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The 2 wires coming from the VOES are very prone to breaking or coming loose from connectors and of course this changes things..
I have had the ground come loose from the terminal and had the power wire break at the plug/potting compound...
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

BUELLers:

Want to eliminate "MYSTERY ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS" ???

Tye wrap your wiring so that it is not doing the "WIGGLE TEST" as you ride ...

}
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You may just have a crappy tank of gas. Try some octane boost. If it works run that until you switch back to synthetic.
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