| Author | Message | ||
     Blackandchrome |
Both bolts on the front header snapped off inside the block today while riding. Does anyone know what the specs are for the header bolts? I had to replace the nut another time and I want to say its 1/4-20 or 1/4-24. Anyone know for certain? Also, what's the ideal length to get? I'm thinking a 1" or 2" rod and the nuts should be available at lowes (or home depot) along with the bolt-out. | ||
| 5liter |
5/16-24 flange nut DA0500.12FZ P/N | ||
| Firemanjim |
The X-1s seemed to be plagued with exhaust problems,maybe even a bad batch of exhaust studs for as many as I have seen break. | ||
| Blackandchrome |
Apparantly there was an issue with the bike before. One bolt just snapped in half. The other bolt ripped out a helicoil! | ||
| Blackandchrome |
Local HD is closed for the 4th. Can I just get a 5/16-24 x 1" steel bolt at home depot or lowes? | ||
| 14d |
No, the side that threads into the engine is a coarser thread. 5/16"-18 I believe. | ||
| 12mpghwy |
I think carb studs for older american cars are the same -24 and -18 thread. They are sold under the spectre brand at every local car parts were I live for about 5 dollars. | ||
| Blackandchrome |
So getting these bolts isn't happening. I broke an easy out in one and can't get that out. Getting to the other is very very difficult as well. can I drill and tap two new holes? I did a test fit with the exhaust flange and it looks like it will fit if I rotate it 90 degrees. Any thoughts. | ||
| 5liter |
http://www.bikernet.com/jims/PageViewer.asp?PageID =2507 | ||
| 12mpghwy |
at this point if I were you I would take it to a machine shop | ||
| Tdman77 |
"at this point if I were you I would take it to a machine shop" +2 You are most likely going to cause more damage trying to get it out yourself. | ||
| Blackandchrome |
Problem # 1: That's $110 Problem # 2: both studs are snapped  I gave it one final shot...Tried drilling a tiny hole in the stud on the edge of the easy-out. Still no luck. I tried bringing it several places today. The mechanic that deals with the company fleet didn't have a long enough helicoil tool and didn't feel confident working on the bike. He recommended a machinist they use for engine work. He didn't really want to deal with it on the bike. I bought his extra helicoil tool so I could do it myself. I tried to get the correct replacement studs but the Harley dealer closed the door on my face. I would have made it if it wasn't on a service road that requires a 5 mile detour to get to it. I tried a guy my club uses for motorcycle repairs - hes gone until Friday... Its so frustrating that I can't get this to work. I have all the right tools from work and it sounds so damn easy. I want to drive the friggen thing off a cliff. It's spent more time in the shop this than between my legs. | ||
| Akbuell |
Please, step away from the bike and take a deep breath. Seriously. Get a service manual. Sounds like you have the expertise to remove broken studs; have at it. I would remove the head; my choice. The key seems to be on assembly. The torque specs for the header nuts is 6-8 ft/lbs, for my '01 X-1. The secret seems to be assembling the entire exhaust system, loosely. Then start tightening up, first the muffler, then the header, then the clamp between the muffler and header. This method seems to avoid problems later. | ||
| 12mpghwy |
Find a machine shop with a metal disintegrator. They should be able to remove both studs and clean the threads in 10 minutes. http://www.cammann.com/about_us.htm | ||
| 12mpghwy |
on the subject of broken studs, anyone ever have an chevy with springs holding the manifold on. How about longer studs with springs between the bolts and flange? | ||
| Sloppy |
B&C - yes, take a break and be patient. This will be a LONG term fix. Few solutions are available now that you broke a hardened bit into the stud. IF you are patient, you can temper or shatter the hardened steel bit. Do a search online and you will find multiple ways of doing this. They all take patience and appropriate tools. Reviewing the procedures here is not appropriate. I highly recommend you get a FSM, the proper tools AND work location to remove the head and take it to a machine shop. This will be your simplest solution. Remember the commandments of Rob Muzzy from Bend, OR - if you can do the same job a simple way or a complex way, use the simple way... Exhaust studs snap due to a bending stress on the header. Some advocate tightening the exhaust system from top to bottom and other bottom to top. I recommend torquing from bottom to top to hold the weight of the header and while the header bolts need only seal the exhaust flange in place. The first sign that you have a problem is when exhaust nuts work loose. If you tighten the headers properly you will have no problems with the OEM equipment. Good luck, be patient and let us know how it turns out. | ||
| Akbuell |
Thanks, Sloppy. You were able to say what I was trying to say much better than I did.  | ||
| Blackandchrome |
http://yachtsoftware.org/RemovingBrokenBolts.aspx Long story short - used a diamond tipped grinding bit in a dremel to remove an easy out. I may try this to get the harden bit out. I'll just have to wait until the weekend and have the pro finish it. I just had the leaky rocker boxes repaired a month or two ago. I really hope I don't need to remove the head. I really can't afford to spend several hundred fixing my "pleasure" vehicle. | ||
| Akbuell |
Re the rocker boxes: An upgrade to the XB breather might be worth looking into. Keeps splooge off of your right leg, and eliminates one gasket surface. Not very expensive, either. And good on ya on the removal. One step at a time. |
