| Author | Message | ||
     Dpg |
The more I read the more I'm learning about the little quirks of the Tubers. My bike (2002 M2L Volcano Grey/Blazing Orange with lotsa CF)was real reliable prior to the mount failure. In fact, I bought the bike figuring it was going to be my reliable bike versus my 1990 1250 Sportster with the grenading stator vs magnets design flaw. Other than tires and regular maintenance I really haven't had to do anything other than ride the bike. Now I've learned about: Removing front tire: Did that by slightly offsetting the floating rotor disc. Isolator issues both front and rear. Finding that getting the battery out is a real chore. What other quirks are there about the Tuber models that I should know about? Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown | ||
| Mbsween |
Gary, Check out http://www.thex1files.com for a list of many tuber "quirks". It is specific to the X1 series, but it covers a big chunk of the more common ailments | ||
| Ratbuell |
Rockerbox gaskets Base gaskets Exhaust gaskets / header alignment / header torque / header cracking (do it right, no problems) Intake leaks That's about all I've experienced...and I can usually break anything I touch LOL. Those are, though, the most common areas I can think of. Oh, and rear shock leaks - my bikes wear a Penske (S1W) and Works (S2) because they're user-rebuildable. | ||
| Texastechx1 |
X2 on the exhaust problems... if it isn't PERFECT, it isn't going to last. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Drive belt adjust, intake seals, rear shock failures, oil level checks, rear brakes(if you use them), primary chain adjuster, shifter d?ente retainer, Bubbling paint, side stand switch, and the fuel injected bikes have some of their own. Still wouldn't have it any other way. Joe (Message edited by bad_karma on June 27, 2009) | ||
| Andymnelson |
tubers ARE quirks. that's why I ride one.  | ||
| Spiderman |
WHat do you mean by, "Did that by slightly offsetting the floating rotor disc." | ||
| Dpg |
The first time I had to replace the front tire I read the FM to check the procedure. Sportster wheels are easy except with the long Ness Taildragger fenders on mine I have to remove the fender to pull the wheel). Anyway, I tried for a half an hour trying to get that caliper off. Sorry Eric, I was calling your name LOL! I finally figured that there was some lateral movement in the flexing of the floating rotor itself and used a piece of 3/4" board to ever so slightly deflect the disc by prying against the wheel. I know, not a really good idea, but I didn't tweak the rotor and the caliper slid off without a hitch. No braking issues that I've noticed and I've only had to do this twice in three years. Due for another front tire later this year. About a 3:1 ratio on rear to front tires. Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown | ||
| Mark61 |
You are supposed to unbolt the floating rotor from the mount then the caliper comes off/out. mark61 | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
met a fellow X1 rider at a bike night this past week.. tried warning him about his drive belt being too tight but I guess he'll learn the hard way. It was tight enough to play a tune on - and that was on the kickstand with no weight in the seat. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The battery thing: On my x1, there is a cutout for cable clearance in the center of the support. you can wrestle with battery all day and never get it to seat right until you hold both cables together at the center. It will drop right in without effort! | ||
| Skntpig |
"You are supposed to unbolt the floating rotor from the mount then the caliper comes off/out." No. Read the FSM. If I did that everytime I needed to buy tires my PM hub would be trashed. | ||
| Ebutch |
Very Nice File Matt!!!Thank-you Butch Pull Some GGGGGGs for me.  | ||
| Bikerat |
The really KEY thing to taking off the caliper so you can take off the wheel is REMOVING THE PADS. Then it pretty much comes right off -- or course knowing just how to bite your tongue and hold your mouth seems to help. Also DON'T use too much threadlocker on the jam screw [M10 x 1,0 -- no longer a standard metric pitch, but still out there] when you reassemble. The screw is soft steel and the wrong screwdriver can lunch the slot and then you have a real problem. | ||
| Mark61 |
Sorry I missed the "PM" wheels. I have stock wheels. I take the rotor apart oat floating bolts. Leaves the hub mount alone just drops the braking area of the rotor. |
