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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 12:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I re-installed my engine after a rebuild, I used new, fresh from the dealer rear (rubber) mounts. I now have an engine vibration that becomes very noticeable near 5000 RPM. Was there a change in the mounts that would account for my now feeling more vibes?

Thanx.
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Preybird1
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

read this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/466552.html?1244508259
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...but I replaced them with OEM. Still the same issue? I really don't feel comfortable on the track nearing 100MPH with the new vibes kicking in. I've been afraid it may be my engine bearings were going.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think it takes a while for new mounts to "break in". It's like the new rubber is REALLY stiff and it has to be exercised for a few hundred miles before it "relaxes". How many miles since the new mounts were installed?

Another thing that can cause higher-RPM vibes is a loose primary chain. It'd be worth checking the adjustment on that.
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

did you replace the rear isos?

if they are old they may have failed..
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The rears are the ones I replaced. The front looked fine. I have over 1000 miles since the change. I've checked and adjusted primary tension but its worth another look.
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Lake_bueller
Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Recheck all the mounts and helm joints. I did something minor but stupid when rebuilding the S1W for the first time. There is a washer on top of the front motor mount. I installed it "backwards". The vibrations made the bike feel like it was coming apart.
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Raceautobody
Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 11:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your exhaust. If it isn't the primary chain I'm betting it is a loose exhaust, bracket, or the baffle in your D&D is loose.

Al
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is not for everybody but if it was me I would have my brother do a 5000rpm burnout. Then you can check your mounts, chain, cylinders, ect... A puddle of water will keep the smoke down
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Preybird1
Posted on Thursday, June 18, 2009 - 01:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How do you check your cylinder after a 5K burnout!!. What your going to crack the heads open to check the cylinders???
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Thursday, June 18, 2009 - 08:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Perhaps any part that doesn't lodge in your femur during the burnout is good.
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Thursday, June 18, 2009 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your cylinders...meaning sparkplug arc, header temps, bad lifter or rocker tap and that fancy bracket bolted to the cylinders that holds the dam engine in!!!I guess I should of made it more clear. I'm from Jersey... what u whant frome???
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I adjusted the primary chain to within cold specs. The vibration is still there. I'm starting to wonder if this vibration is normal and I just don't recall it from before the engine was rebuilt.
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok... I think I did a bad adjusting job. I re-did it using a bettre strategy. It still seems buzzy but its a different quality (if that makes since). This may be normal buzziness.
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Mmmi_grad
Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

one thing that will cause this is a poorly balanced crank. My opinion or trust that is of other people who work on motorcycles has dove off a cliff into the darkest depths of the ocean!!! I swear if I ever need a crank balanced ill be buying the $500.00 trueing stand and doing it myself!
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 08:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I swapped to racing pistons without re balancing my crank. Ugh... if that's the problem, not much I can do about it until I pull it apart... *sigh*
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Kalali
Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"This may be normal buzziness."

My X1 gets real smooth once you cross 3000 RPM. It is not "sewing machine" smooth but there are no vibrations or shaking of any sort.
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's how I remember it before the rebuild.
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Mmmi_grad
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I swapped to racing pistons without re balancing my crank. Ugh... if that's the problem, not much I can do about it until I pull it apart... *sigh


thats not what I meant. Just meant fly wheel assy with out pistons need balanced right. If flywheel didnt come apart and you were very carefull with it, it should be ok. Pistons should not matter but who knows, your timing could be off too.
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 06:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Funny you should mention that. My timing *was* off. I did my initial ECM Spy setup last night and my timing was advanced. I haven't had a chance to run it yet. I'm reading trying to figure out if my Power Commander is preventing ECM Spy from seeing throttle position and RPM.
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Mmmi_grad
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 06:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Get rid of the power commander too, I dont think anyone here recommends it either.
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Shadowracerx1
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 08:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Unfortunately it was installed by the dealer. I'm don't know its removal procedure.
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