| Author | Message | ||
     Phelan |
I have a huge hate-affair with the stock boomerang shifter, so I'm going to change my shifter, but I was thinking about making some rearsets instead of just a new shifter. Any thoughts? | ||
| Ebutch |
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/1178637103. html | ||
| Ebutch |
There are rear-sets on this S2 Ross. | ||
| Phelan |
Funny, I was going to mention "other than that guy". I saw that, and it's okay I guess (the bike in general), but not my taste. I'm looking for some ideas on how to design the rearsets without the boomerang style shifter. That thing pisses me off cuz it catches my pant legs. | ||
| Rickie_d |
Here are some controls that I have been working on. They are mocked up and functional, now I just need to trim them to make them a little more attractive.   | ||
| Phelan |
Looks good, but that's on the M2, no? I mainly looking for how people modded their sideplates on the S2 to fit 'em. | ||
| Rickie_d |
Yes it is an M2 and yes I realize that you are looking for a solution for an S2. I posted the controls to give ideas for a configuration that does not use the boomerang. You do realize that what ever you do it will have to be fabricated unless you go with the few configurations of the time. There wasn’t much to pick from because the market was (is) so small. That means you have a clean sheet of paper, so step out of the box (S2) and look for what might be designed or adapted. You could look at adapting the primary mounted X1 shifter it is longer than the S3/M2 unit. | ||
| Phelan |
Oh okay, I got you now. I have an idea of at least one way I could make it without modifying the sideplates themselves. It'd add a couple pounds 'cuz most of it would be steel but it would be the cheapest and easiest way to build them. I think what I'll do is weld a piece of steel flatbar between the footpeg mounts, cut off the footpeg mounting flanges from the front and weld them on further back, as well as weld on some mounts for the master cylinder and go from there. That way if I don't like it a few years from now I can always change it back, and it'll only cost me a couple dollars in materials since my dad has a welder and grinder and such. I just have to figure out how I want to design my brake and shift levers and linkage. | ||
| Rickie_d |
A good way to attach a secondary mounting surface on a S2 for foot peg relocation is to replace the countersunk Allen heads with studs or set screws. You then fabricate or trim standoffs that have the same 80-84 degree taper as the flat head machine screw. Threaded couplers work good for this. Thread the standoff to the set screw holding your isolator plate in position, and then fasten your secondary plate to the standoffs with flat head machine screws. To get the setup even tighter (narrower) can be accomplished if the standoffs were only slightly proud of the isolator plate and drilled for the machine screw to slide through; stacking the secondary plate on top of the primary without marring it.  (Message edited by Rickie_d on June 15, 2009) |
