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Buellgrrrl
Posted on Monday, May 25, 2009 - 06:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I just rode my 2001 Cyclone from Minneapolis to Florida, the bike was running great... Until the last couple hundred miles. I was enjoying the scenery and light traffic on US19 when I stopped for lunch and fuel a bit north of Tampa. Lunch was no problem, but pulling in for gas I had trouble downshifting. After fuelling, after much hassle I managed to get into neutral to get restarted. I looked at the linkage and found nothing amiss and the clutch was clutching properly too. I had been debating staying on US19 or hopping onto I75 to escape the increasing traffic. With gearshifting being dubvious, the transmission made the decision for me and I beelined to the interstate and limped into Naples. If I slightly lift up or push down the shift pedal before downshifting or upshifting I can shift gears. This leads me to suspect there's a return spring in the transmission that's broken.

I'm at our family's trailer in Naples now and the plan was to leave the Cyclone here for when I come down next winter and drive my late mom's minivan back to Minnesota. I don't have any tools here other than what I could fit in the bottom half of the tank bag, and my service manual's back in Minnesota. Any opinions with whats wrong with the transmission, and how hard will it be to fix?

thanx in advance,

BuellGrrrl in Flatistan (AKA Florida)
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Fasted
Posted on Monday, May 25, 2009 - 07:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/boar d-auth.cgi?file=/42/42.html&lm=1243130373

this MIGHT get you tools, garage, and help
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Buellgrrrl
Posted on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 07:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks, Fasted. I'll be leaving the Cyclone here for when I come back in november. I was just wondering what tools I need so I can bring them when I come back to Naples for the winter. I suspect taking it to the dealer will result in some huge repair bills as well as storage charges.
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Fasted
Posted on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 08:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

if you have had the primary off before, you have a good start on the tool list.

add proper size sockets for removal of nuts and a locking bar to hold things when you remove the stator and clutch assembly.

plan on replacing the detent plate. the tranny is behind a plate (trap door). there is a procedure in kv for adjusting the shifter pawl
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Essmjay
Posted on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My return spring was missing and it only affected the upshifts. More likely you have a problem with the detent plate.
Shane
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Buellgrrrl
Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 07:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the helpful advice. I'm ferrying a minivan back to Minnesota and leaving the Buell here in Naples for next winter. When I come back in november I'll be bringing most all my tools so I can repair the Cyclone. I look forward to riding with you Florida Buellers next winter.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 01:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've had a lobe on the detent plate break off before.. it caused false neutrals all the time when downshifting. I could upshift 1-5 with no problems at all, but any time I downshifted I would have to jimmy the shift pedal while feathering the clutch back and forth before I could eventually find a gear.

Inspect your stator very closely and well basically everything else inside the primary/tranny. When the piece broke off my detent plate it found it's way under the rotor and chewed up all the wires on my stator. If you're lucky, you'll find a chunk of metal sitting innocently on the drain plug.
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Sparky
Posted on Thursday, May 28, 2009 - 04:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My Harley had a broken return spring on the shifter shaft assembly once. The symptom was wherever I put the shift lever, it stayed there; I had to manually push the lever down for each upshift and vice versa. That sounds like what yours is doing.
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Buellgrrrl
Posted on Monday, January 03, 2011 - 03:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Time to dredge up this old thread... Finally got some time in Florida to take the bike apart. Took off the primary cover, and, low and behold, the spring around the shift shaft has one arm busted off.

Looks like I need to take at least the clutch assembly off and maybe the primary drive sprocket too? How do I go about this repair? What special tools that I need?

thanks in advance,

Diana
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, January 03, 2011 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Buellgrrrl:

PM me and "i" will send you a lot of HELP "INFO" Class 101 ...

PICTURES and a lot to READ !!!
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Jramsey
Posted on Monday, January 03, 2011 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes you have to remove the primary to remove the shift shaft assy to replace the spring.

Primary sprocket locking tool = 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 4-3/8" aluminum bar stock.

Crank nut 1-3/16" IIRC
Clutch hub nut 7/8" IIRC
Clutch nut is left hand thread.

Shift shaft spring #33481-91A
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Buellgrrrl
Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 08:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the fast help guys!

Buellistic, sorry I've never done IM, don't know if this computer has software for it. My e-mail is gearheadgrrrl@unions-america.com.

Jramsey, thanks for the tool & parts list, hope I've got that big socket. If not, there's a Sears store nearby.

One question for anyone... Do I have to take the clutch off too? It seems like the clutch is blocking removal of the offending part more than the primary pulley, etc..
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Jramsey
Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes you have to strip the primary completely as in the rotor on the crank and the clutch assy.

After you get the nuts removed the rotor and clutch pack (hub,basket will slip off the splines, use care on the rotor, the pull of the magnets will require the use of a small pry bar, use care not to chip the the rotors internal magnets.
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Buellgrrrl
Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 08:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks guys, I just ordered the clutch spring cage and primary locking tools so I'll probably be digging deeper into it next week.
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