| Author | Message | ||
     Lowroad |
As most of you know, I am new to this tuber world. I love the bike like I've never loved another, but sometimes when I goose it around 2500 it skips a beat or two, makes a brief sort of sucking sound, then sort of plays catch up with itself until 3000rpm. I have actually been trying to keep the bike above 3 grand as much as I can as that is where it seems happiest. I have the ECM spy cable and software, is it worth messing with the map to smooth out the 2200-2500 range or is just a V-twin thing? The bike also has the Race ECM and a vance&Hines muffler, along with a force winder intake set up. | ||
| Yo_barry |
I would check for vacuum leaks and clean out the throttle body behind the butterfly. Might want to replace the gasket between the throttle body and manifold while you have the throttle body off for cleaning. Don't remove the Throttle Position Sensor from the throttle body, it is OK to unplug it. On CA models, there is a vacuum fitting for a line that runs to the carbon canister. This should be plugged if you don't have the carbon canister. When you put it back together, use ECM Spy to reset the TPS. I wouldn't mess with the fuel maps--that would be a last resort for me :-). | ||
| Preybird1 |
+1 on the tps Usually the tps reset or the intake seals have leaks these are very common. The intake seals need to be changed every 2 yrs, Also could be a rear head temp sensor on the way out. | ||
| Sloppy |
That also happens with an engine that's not at full operating temperature... | ||
| Jos51700 |
It's chronic for any DDFI bike that has not had the timing set. There are many many Buell tech releases on this. Set the timing. | ||
| Lowroad |
Sounds great. I think I'll start with the simple TPS reset first, then continue on to check for leaks on that intake gasket and clean that throttle body. | ||
| Lowroad |
Hmmm. set the timing huh? I'll keep that in mind as well. | ||
| Oldironsides |
Yo_barry What might be the effects on the bike if that vacuum port is not capped? Thanks for any help. | ||
| Easy_rider |
I think I'd try the timing first. I'd have tried mine if I'd realized that it was something I could do on my own. | ||
| Lowroad |
Ok, timing it is. Good thing I have the service manual. | ||
| Buelleaver |
my x1 was surging at that rpm and throwing a check engine code for the 02 sensor. When I changed the sensor I found the exhaust gaskets were leaking.After fixing those 2 things it stopped surging. | ||
| Tdman77 |
I had a stutter at around that rpm, reflashing my ecm with a race eeprom cured it. | ||
| Lowroad |
Hmmm, thats quite a few things to check. Td, what do you mean by reflashing the ecm exactly? | ||
| Tdman77 |
I used ECM SPy and upload a race eeprom file. This way I didn't have to buy a race ecm. The ecms are the same just the eeprom loaded into them. | ||
| Lowroad |
Got it. I think before I start tearing into timing I am going to try reflashing the ECM and resetting the TPS. After I replace the primary tensioner today. I'll also look for the 02 sensor code. Thanks guys! | ||
| Kalali |
Not sure if you need to reflash the EEPROM since you already have the Race ECM. Given you have ECMSPY, I would start with a TPS reset. Then I would look at the fuel maps and focus on the cells around the 2000-3000 RPM columns at various TP settings (y axis) and see if the values in the adjacent cells transition without "major" steps. Needless to say, save all the current settings before you make any changes. The Race ECM fuel maps do not always "match" the specific mods on a given bike and can be tweaked for better throttle response, idle, etc. If you make any changes, take very small steps and keep a log. IMHO ECMSPY is the best thing that has happened to Buell FI bikes. | ||
| Lowroad |
gotcha! TPS reset is easy enough, as is checking for codes. I'll start there and go deeper if I need to. | ||
| Lowroad |
First, off to the tool store for a bolt extractor kit. Previous owner stripped one of the allen bolts which hold the lower fairing on. Presumably by using the wrong sized allen key.  | ||
| Preybird1 |
Which side of the fairng, I hope it is not the left one in front of the clutch cable, That bolt is 12" long and goes into the case very deep, It will be very hard to remove if it is seized in there. Well good luck i hope you don't brake the extractor or ez-out in that bolt it will be a nightmare!! Invest in a good set of t-handle allen wrenches. | ||
| Lowroad |
Got it out. It was one of the two smaller ones on the right side near the rear brake pedal. Broke a bit and put a dinger in the lower fairing though. I taped it off real thick just to avoid that scenario. not thick enough though. |
