| Author | Message | ||
     Hugie03flhr |
It seems like every mod I do, I lose some low end torque. I installed a V&H slip on...lost some low end torque. Installed Dyno Jet carb kit...lost some more torque. Installed a K&N filter lost some more torque. Installed super fancy spark plugs that are supposed to be better than stock...lost some more torque...  But I will say there was improvements in the upper RPM. When the bike was mostly stock I could pull the front wheel first and second gear but gear. Now I got a little jump in first gear. Will a forcewinder make a big improvement over my K&N filter in the stock box??? OR WILL I LOSE MORE LOW END TORQUE? | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
A free flowing exhaust and intake will provide a higher VOLUME of air while the restrictive stock setup provides more precision. If you've got 2 garden hoses the second being twice the diameter of the first, the larger would allow more water through when run at the same pressure as the first, but in low pressure situations (low end of your rpm range) the smallerr restrictive hose provides a more precise stream. Upgrades like a free flowing exhaust and intake give you top end hp in trade for losing low end tq. Of course all of that is dependent on throttle body and head porting and the resulting air flow changes. Different combinations and setups will offer different compromises in where the power is, but without doing expensive engine work you won't be able to gain overall hp or tq - only move it around. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
making power in one area with negate another, its all in how much power you want and where just like a 2 stroke expansion chamber pipe, a fat one makes low end power but kills top, a skinny one makes top end power but no bottom. basically you can tune any engine to run how you want it to. there is a magic combo that makes power everywhere but will not have peak numbers | ||
| Firemanjim |
Not a big fan of the Forcewinder and you might want to get your bike on a dyno to check your air/fuel ratio as you will loose torque if it is off either direction. Buell engineers did a good job on that airbox. | ||
| Phelan |
A good piece of advise that a record-holding non-sponsor once told me is to build your bike for horsepower, not torque. Then gear it to enjoy all the torque you want. Torque is essentially gear reduction anyway. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
So I'm going to be disappointed if I pick up a forcewinder. I'm looking for more grunt. | ||
| Kalali |
Hmmm, strangely enough my experience was the opposite... I "felt" more get-go when I switched to the V&H SS2R and high-flow air filter. I have no data (dyno run, etc.) to compare but the stock set-up definitely had a flat spot right around 2500-3500 RPM range which is now gone. One other thing that might have helped is a lot of "trial-error" tuning using ECMSPY. I spent a great deal of time "smoothing-out" the fuel cells to get a crisp and linear throttle response all the way up to red line. Having said this, I don't do wheelies and I have yet to push the bike really hard so may be my bike "lives" in a totally different environment. FWIW, my bike is a '00 X1. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Kalali, it is two different animals Carb. & FI. but I do plan on changing my jetting. I went richer on the needle position and that made it more jumpy when rolling on. I need to check my plugs to see where I'm at. | ||
| Sloppy |
Warning on "seat of the pants" dyno's. What you may "feel" as more or less power, could actually by just a change in torque as you fall into or pull out of a torque dip. And don't forget, power is just the rate of change of torque over time - a constant torque curve yields a linear power curve. Pay the money and get a dyno run so you can "see" exactly where you should spend money. The goal should be higher BMEP, or higher average torque. If you have a mid range "hole", it can be fixed with different length headers. If you have a high end "hole", it can be fixed with free flowing modifications. But if you want more "snap", then perhaps a change in gearing is all you need. If you look at the "stunt squids", you'll see that they have significant rear sprocket changes... | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Do you mean the 80 tooth rear sprocket is all I need Sloppy  Hehe. I've been a hotrodder/engine builder for many years so I know what you guys are saying but when ever I opened the exhaust or free flo air cleaner, it always made my HR snappier not slower. I would understand if I cammed it up and low end torque fell off in a trade for upper rpm power. I'm going to do some more tuning. Also the gas in the tank is a few months old. This may be the cause of my complaining. Thanks for all your input everyone BILL | ||
| Lowroad |
get some avgas in that bad boy.  | ||
| Sloppy |
By putting in different intakes and exhaust you may be getting greater air flow (you are tuning your carb for this, right???) BUT you will also change the resonance of the air flow. Each intake and exhaust system has a flowrate which it is tuned to AND a particular flowrate which you will have WORSE flow! Remember that a carb will supply fuel no matter which direction the air flow is going... So how do you find out where you should put your cash... simple - DYNO THE BIKE!!! Opinions are a$$holes - everyone has them but they're not worth much. Instead get the DATA. | ||
| Preybird1 |
+100 on dyno I changed stuff on my x1 and little things made a huge difference One of the most notable was when i changed my exhaust to a V&H carbon fiber one and it would wheelie all over and had so much torque then it broke. I used the super trapp and low end torque was gone i had 12 discs and closed end cap, So i got a open end cap and it is just right now |
