| Author | Message | ||
     Bsanorton |
Looking for a Forcewinder for my 99' X1. What site has the best prices? Does it pay to spend extra on the XR2? Any other similiar looking systems I can look at? | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Iirc, the xr2 is for fi bikes and will have 2 holes in the back of the filter. 1 for a breather hose and 1 for the iat sensor. If you have a carbed bike or if you've rerouted your breathers into a catch can then there's no reason to spend extra on the xr2. Waiting for a used forcewinder will save you a lot of money. I've got an extra with some scratches on the aluminum elbow that I'd trade for a stock x1 airbox. | ||
| Kalali |
"...then there's no reason to spend extra on the xr2." How about the provisions for the IAT? As an aside, how is your "Econowinder" holding up? I am really close to pulling the trigger and going that route. Just need to find a cheap alternative for "filling" the empty space under/side of the tank. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
That's why I mentioned a breather reroute. If your breather hose no longer dumps into the intake, you can buy the cheaper version of the forcewinder for carbed bikes, and just install the iat sensor into the hole that was put there for the breather hose. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: Glad some of you'll have figured out how to do the "ECONOWINDER" ... Posted many tines on how to IMPROVISE the OEM Snorkel to do this ... Can run mine with or without the OEM Air Box ... Did mine early on on my 1997 S3T ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Bsanorton |
Buellistic, can you post some pictures of the OEM snorkel conversion? | ||
| Preybird1 |
Here is the one i did, I used the longer original snorkel and it looked awful. So i cut the snorkel down to where the old AIT sensor hole was and used a drill to wollar where the little plastic "nipple" thing was. I then went to ACE hardware and bought some plastic epoxy and some standard cold water pipe caps, the plastic white non threaded they look just like pvc, I just took the snorkel in with me and started trying caps out. They will just squeeze in the 2 holes with a little force, now epoxy em in and you almost done....Not paint em black!  Now the tricky part get some 1/4" gasket material from an auto store and trace up a new gasket, Now the original bolts have a taper to them up at the top that won't thread through the throttle intake face UNLESS you force them in and out until they do go through or get a spacer, This is just how "I" did this. Now you need a smaller Allen bolt that you can cut down at least 3/4"-1" Now the tricky part is the metal half ring with 3 holes in it you need the smaller cut down Allen bolt goes at the top next to the elbow this can BE A PITA but it can be done! I spent less than $40.00 and a pretty good hour getting it just right...but it was so much better than smacking and banging my knee on the round billet aluminum style one. Here is an old illustrated pic i have  And here is the knee basher  | ||
| Bsanorton |
Thanks for the pictures and instructions Prey! | ||
| Kalali |
+2 thanks for the pics and the write-up. Prey, didn't you have some issues with the location of the IAT and hot starts? | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
That was me Kalai, and I've got a normal forcewinder. I've never heard of anyone else have a problem like mine with an aftermarket intake so it probably won't be an issue with the mods shown previously. Black Betty is being put together with ceramic coated headers so hopefully that will get enough heat out of the sensor area to fix the hot start problem. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: If you want TOP-END you "SHORTEN" the snorkel as much as possible ... If you want bottom end "GRUNT"(torque) you leave it as long as possible ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL} BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Jayvee |
That is way cool, cannot beat that price. That air filter was just being discussed on another forum. Anybody have the K&N part number handy? | ||
| Preybird1 |
RC-3680 this is the one i used. |
